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Brake booster |
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6PakBee
Supporter of TheAMCForum Charter Member Joined: Jul/01/2007 Location: North Dakota Status: Offline Points: 5454 |
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I see now what you mean. That appears to be the reman version
of either the big car drum booster or the small car drum/disc
booster. It does not use the spacers.
The topic of the boosters and brackets in 68-69-70 is confusing. What you have there is the more common big car bracket with the single oval hole that I know the 70's with discs used. According to the parts book, the '68 Javelin uses the same brackets for the drum booster as the small car drum/disc, the one with two small holes. I have no idea what is right for the '69 big cars. The '69 small cars used the two hole bracket for both drum and disc. |
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Roger Gazur
1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler 1970 RWB 4-spd Machine 1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX All project cars. Forum Cockroach |
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PlazinJavelin
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Nov/02/2008 Location: Atlanta USA Status: Offline Points: 2703 |
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You've got that right. Seems there was a change every couple of years in brackets, boosters and pedals (not to mention 3-4 speed setups) and not a lot of surviving documentation about it. I did some more study of the 69 tech manual this eve. It has pictures of two different brackets. One with no holes in the side that uses spaces (power front disc). A second bracket with two holes in the side with no spacers (power front drum). There's no write up specifically about the brackets, just the drawing you're left to make your assumptions about. Most of the chapter is dedicated to rebuilding the boosters, and who's bothering with that these days. My second hand bracket from a 74 Javelin with front power disc had that large single hole in the side. Time will tell how it all works out. BTW. Anyone have info or a picture of how the link from the bracket connects to the pedal. Is there some kind of a connector between the two? I think I'm missing yet another part in there. :P
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DG Racing
AMC Fan Joined: Oct/03/2016 Location: champlain Status: Offline Points: 18 |
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Hi PlazinJavelin I see that your car is drum drum with power brake I'm considering installing a brake booster but I'm not sure if I should change for disk in front or just install booster with my drums . so does it goes good with only drums ? |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19611 |
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The drum brake booster will work fine with disc brakes, it just doesn't have as much boost. Late 60s/early 70s cars usually had a LOT of boost and real easy brakes. I use a drum booster with mine (63 Classic, 79 Spirit discs in front) and like it. Better than manual brakes, but not as easy as typical disc brakes. If you like a bit more feel in the pedal you'll like it, but if you want easy brakes you won't. Mine is reasonably easy at first, but takes a bit of pressure about half-way down. For normal slow, anticipated stops it's easy, for fast stops you have to press hard, just not as hard as manual brakes.
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Frank Swygert
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Lyle
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/17/2014 Location: None Status: Offline Points: 772 |
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What ever you do I would not use NAPA. They send out everything to Cardone and they in turn just take a booster off the shelf, rebuild it, including modifications for stud relocating and send it back. I lost my original 69 booster and master this way with no means of recovery.
First delivery was a mustang 7" single booster (relocated studs), attached to a GM master, plugs on left side and new brake line holes machined into the bosses on the right side.
If you have originals find a local trusted shop that will rebuild your unit on site. |
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DG Racing
AMC Fan Joined: Oct/03/2016 Location: champlain Status: Offline Points: 18 |
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ok I will keep my front drum and ad a booster I bought a cardone remanufacture part number # 54-73526
its for a American 1968 but I install it in my 1966 so now I will try to find the bracket to mount it to the firewall .
do I have to change the brake pedal bracket inside the car ?
Edited by DG Racing - Feb/12/2017 at 7:56pm |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19611 |
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No, you don't have to change the bracket inside. You might find that the pedal is uncomfortably close to the floor though. A different pedal was used for power brakes. If that is the case you can change the pedal or cut and weld it. The latter is easier than it sounds -- make a hack saw cut about 1/4" under the hole where the pushrod connects, from the driver's side of the pedal, but only about 7/8 through, DO NOT cut all the way off. Bend to close the gap, then weld. Make another cut on the firewall side of the pedal right above the foot pad, same type of cut. Bend it back and weld. That straightens the pedal back up. While the cuts are only about 1/16", this will bring the pedal up off the floor about 1.5". I did this for my car. Alternately you may need to get a power brake pedal. But check it first. Mine worked fine without the mod, but having the pedal only about an inch (maybe a bit more) off the floor with the brakes fully depressed was a bit disconcerting.
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Frank Swygert
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6PakBee
Supporter of TheAMCForum Charter Member Joined: Jul/01/2007 Location: North Dakota Status: Offline Points: 5454 |
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I don't know if this helps or just muddies the waters. Here is both a manual and power brake pedal from a '75 Hornet. The bottom one is the manual pedal.
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Roger Gazur
1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler 1970 RWB 4-spd Machine 1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX All project cars. Forum Cockroach |
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farna
Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19611 |
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The hole for the pushrod is obviously different on the above Hornet pedal. The 70-72 might be similar. The pedals are different on the earlier Americans and big cars -- most with the stand-off/lifting bracket. By 75 I think the Hornet had the booster on the firewall, or rather a tilted bracket without the bell crank linkage between it and booster -- rod directly from pedal to booster. I know they eventually went to that setup...
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Frank Swygert
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