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Bone stock 360 potential? |
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PHAT69AMX 
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Joined: Jul/07/2007 Location: West Virginia Status: Offline Points: 5926 |
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 Posted: Feb/15/2019 at 6:09pm |
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I'll go as far as to say 300 HP at the rear tires is possible, baby poo by today's standards...
 Edited by PHAT69AMX - Feb/15/2019 at 6:27pm |
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Boris Badanov
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Joined: Dec/14/2013 Location: NH USA Status: Offline Points: 4210 |
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Posted: Feb/15/2019 at 6:20pm |
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Turbo charge it.
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Gremlin Dreams
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304-dude
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Joined: Sep/29/2008 Location: Central Illinoi Status: Offline Points: 9082 |
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Posted: Feb/15/2019 at 6:29pm |
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I did check around about the Offy 360 i used... man, now I realize why the shops were trying to talk me out of the purchase. RPM range is 3000 to 8000 RPM. Well, that I must have known back then, as I perposfully used a segragated port spacer to create more volocity at the top end of the plenum. Never seemed to have any issues with the odd setup. And thinking about it being hard or impossible to find now, I should have kept it. I Think I paid $275.00 for it back in 1990, as it was a special order when I made the purchase.
Edited by 304-dude - Feb/15/2019 at 6:31pm |
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71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons 78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low 50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension 79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker |
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ccowx
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Joined: Nov/03/2010 Location: Yukon Status: Offline Points: 3510 |
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Posted: Feb/15/2019 at 8:10pm |
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Should have no trouble with getting close to 1 hp to the cube out of it. I have a 1970 390 with stock pistons and it will rev past 6000 rpms with no issue at all. PAS backs me up that this is ok, though I personally would not use the cast pistons at a sustained rpm. Probably fine, but not worth pushing your luck. Certainly fine for a short blast to 5k and above.
Your engine should make pretty good hp. You have some of the best flowing heads, either 502 (?) or 291-C's and decent valve sizes. I would use a dual plane intake and a moderate carb. R4B and a Holley 600 would work well. Keep the cam duration modest to keep cylinder pressure up where you have lots of power. Probably 214 degrees at .050" and lift around .500" would do it. Keep the lobe centers fairly wide, say 112 deg. to keep the cylinder pressure up at low rpms. This will prevent the soggy bottom end from low compression. Modern grinds have more lift for power but keep the duration moderate to keep drivability. Curve the distributor for lots of low end advance to make up for the low compression coming off the line. Exhast is another area ripe for improvement. Free flowing straight through design mufflers will work wonders. 2-1/4" is plenty, with headers of course! All of this should work well with a stock torque converter and stock gearing, though it may well be worth the trouble to go with a 3.15 or 3.54 rear end gear. And all this new power will mean time for traction bars of course! Chris PS: And yes, do replace the springs on the camshaft, along with the keepers and such.
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turbo
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Joined: Oct/26/2008 Location: chicago area Status: Offline Points: 2568 |
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Posted: Feb/15/2019 at 8:54pm |
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Not too impressed by even a built 360 which I have......kind of the red headed step child. I can get some power out of it by revving big and the stocker has some grunt down low but not going to impress in any case. Very similar to the 343 but I would give the nod to the 343 for effort. This is the first 360 that I have had in 17 amx's and I am not impressed but it's ok. I wouldn't have another
Edited by turbo - Feb/15/2019 at 8:57pm |
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they call me Capt RETIRED!
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Trader
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Joined: May/15/2018 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 6911 |
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Posted: Feb/15/2019 at 9:36pm |
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Here is an older article that gives some ideas:
Now if you take away the heads, the compression ratio up to 9.x:1 seems to be the key to making the HP beyond the other bolt on parts. Put on some 219 heads or the rod/pistons and your into 350HP to 400HP even with bridge rockers and a smallish cam. Just got to get past the low compression. |
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Ken_Parkman
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Joined: Jun/04/2009 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 1814 |
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Posted: Feb/15/2019 at 10:08pm |
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Mopar Performance trying out the catalog parts back in the day. Started with a stock 360 Jeep engine, 2 bbl, iron exhaust manifolds, open air cleaner, no mufflers, 220 hp. Finished with Mopar single plane intake (rebadged Torker) 750, 1 3/4 headers, 268/.478" cam, 354 hp.
134 hp gain for a few bolt on parts. They were impressed. Almost 1 hp/in with a stock short and small cam.
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Sonic Silver
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Joined: Nov/23/2011 Location: East Tennessee Status: Offline Points: 7969 |
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Posted: Feb/15/2019 at 10:25pm |
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LakesideRamblin
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Posted: Feb/16/2019 at 12:23am |
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My 69 Rambler 360 build sheet. Standard bore. Has a Holley 600 CFM Carb, LOG exhaust manifolds (no headers), 2 1/2" H pipe exhaust, Ford Explorer 8.8 rear. Street engine that is much better than I ever expected. I would do this over again with no hesitation.
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LakesideRamblin
69 Rambler 360 73 Javelin 360 "If you could kick the person in the pants responsible for most of your trouble, you wouldn't sit for a month." T. Roosevelt |
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jpnjim
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Joined: Nov/25/2007 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 2752 |
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Posted: Feb/16/2019 at 7:50am |
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I've seen it posted both ways on this thread so I just wanted to point out that narrowing the lobe centerline will increase dynamic cylinder pressure, not decrease it.
Its a confusing subject, but I think this is the best way to explain it (hopefully): Cylinder pressure is built on the opposite side of cam events from when overlap happens, so narrowing the centerline on the overlap side (as the intake is closing and the exhaust is opening) will actually increase the amount of time you have on the opposite side of things (as the exhaust is closing and the intake is opening). Widening the gap between exhaust closing and intake opening delays the opening of the intake. Delaying the intake opening inceases the distance the piston travels before the intake valve opens, this increases the dynamic compression ratio. There's more to it, because once you decide on a narrower lobe centerline you usually change the installed centerline of the cam and that effects dynamic cylinder pressure as well. Unfortunately it's commonly believed that the RUMP RUMP RUMP from a cam with a narrow centerline is cylinder pressure bleeding off, but thats not always the case. ^you also get more overlap by increasing the intake and exhaust duration, while leaving lobe seperation alone. since bigger lobes effect both sides of cam events (in closing to ex opening AND ex closing to in opening) the effect of bigger lobes is BOTH more rump rump rump AND lower cylinder pressure. Clear as mud?
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71 P-code 4spd Javelin/AMX
some Jeeps and some Fords |
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Ken_Parkman wrote: