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Best Pentrent for rusted bolts

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smills61074 View Drop Down
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    Posted: Sep/25/2013 at 8:10pm
I was google searching for the best penetrant. I had something that was really stuck.  The number one thing that came up was this information below.  Read on, but don't believe everything you read on internet.  I sprayed tans/acetone on a rusty shaft for 2 weeks.  I also beat on it side to side and on top daily.  Wasn't moving, so I tried Kroil Oil.  Had it moving in short order.  It was a cast piece that I did not want to heat.  If you google search for the best penetrate, read down the list farther, Trans/Acetone is a failure.  It might work as a lubricant, but it doesn't eat rust.  Just thought I would pass some information on.  By the way, Kroil Oil has a weird sweet smell.  Almost like Vicks Vapor Rub.  I thought PB blaster was king.    

Article in the April/May 2007 issue of Machinist's Workshop.

Nut were in a salt spray and corroded.  Enough samples to try out the various penetrating oils on.

The nuts/bolts were tested by soaking them in the penetrating oils for 8 hours.
The load needed to break the nuts free was tested using a Baldwin compressometer.

The results (lower is better):

> 50/50 mix of PSF & acetone - 53 Lbs
> Kroil - 106 Lbs
> Liquid Wrench - 127 Lbs
> PB Blaster - 214 Lbs
> WD-40 - 238 Lbs
> None - 516 Lbs


The JeepForum's beloved PB Blaster did only slightly better than WD-40!

The original article, as printed in the magazine, stated the test was run with ATF and acetone. The test was actually run with Power Steering Fluid.

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74Bubblefender View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74Bubblefender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/25/2013 at 9:15pm
Hey man where you been! :) That's been around since 1999
We are just about to forge new AMC V8 crankshafts.. please check here
http://www.bulltear.com/forums/showthread.php?19564
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smills61074 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/25/2013 at 9:27pm
I guess living in a cave.  I tried it on a couple of different things.  After 2 weeks of putting it on each day,and beating the heck out of a shaft, I was past frustrated.  That's when I went back to the internet to research further.  If this is Mythbusters, this myth is busted in my book.    
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote typhooner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/25/2013 at 10:22pm
I have been busting rust for at least30 years, and have tried most everything under the sun. I have 2 favorites..........Kano Kroil.....works well, but expensive for how much you get. Doesn't always apply easy........and Gibbs Oil.......you get quite a bit in the can, and it sprays an aerosol squirt that makes it hit the target well in tight quarters. Both work nearly equally well, with Kroil having a slightly higher success rate. However, i find myself always going to the Gibbs Oil. It just works great, and is easy to use. If you apply either, it helps to be patient and let it sit for a day if possible, and it's probably necessary for extremely stubborn fasteners. But you can get good results after 5 minutes or so on fasteners not too badly rusted. For reassembly use Maxima Chain Wax from motorcycle/powersports shops. It applies just like WD-40 but gels up to a cosmoline like protective wax/grease. It dries to a slightly tacky dry finish,and you'll never have trouble with disassembly again, after using it. It does not attract dirt. You'll find a 100 uses for it. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 74Bubblefender Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/25/2013 at 11:37pm
You should try some dot 5 and xylene
We are just about to forge new AMC V8 crankshafts.. please check here
http://www.bulltear.com/forums/showthread.php?19564
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KLW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/26/2013 at 12:49am
I too must be dwelling in a cave as I have never heard of Kroll or an acetone mixture. Whenever I have something that rusted up, I have been using Sea Foam Deep Creep when heat is not an option.

Some of the toughest rusty nuts and bolts can be found on the connection to the exhaust manifold. I have never found anything that would break those loose except for heat. Just for the heck of it, I tried Deep Creep on a really rusted set and they spun right off. So, if Kroll can outdo that, I would definitely gets some. I don't believe I have seen it in any parts stores; where do you guys get it?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stormy69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/26/2013 at 2:15am
heat via oxy-acetylene is the best, as stated by KLW.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KLW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/26/2013 at 5:12am
If you don't have an oxy-acetylene set up, MAP gas in one of those bern-z-matic torches works darn good for what it is. It'll loose a froze on brake disc and also do exhaust bolts most of the time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/26/2013 at 5:25am
My local NAPA store carries aerosol Kroil.  Best commercial stuff I've ever used.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wantajav Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/26/2013 at 6:27am
X2 for Kroil
 
I worked at a chemical plant in Louisiana, you oughta see some of the rusted bolts in a corrosive, hot and humid environment. We used Kroil, if that didn't work Kroil + cheater bar! Torch heat where we could but open flame = no no in a chem plant lots of times.
 
Other thing is maybe not every rusted situation responds exactly the same way, some loosen better than others when exposed to penetrant + vibration versus pure penetrant and brute force.
 
Mike
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