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best fuel line? |
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detmarlin65 
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Joined: Jul/12/2015 Location: Tampa,Florida Status: Offline Points: 180 |
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 Topic: best fuel line?Posted: Oct/22/2018 at 4:36pm |
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looking at replacing complete fuel line my 65 marlin, was looking at nickel/copper lines,(something that's easy to bend and flare) will be installing a electric fuel pump,(near fuel tank) would 3/8 size be ok, or should i go with a smaller diameter?
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BjH
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Boris Badanov
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Joined: Dec/14/2013 Location: NH USA Status: Offline Points: 4210 |
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Posted: Oct/22/2018 at 4:49pm |
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3/8 will be over kill but will be ok.
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Gremlin Dreams
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detmarlin65
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Joined: Jul/12/2015 Location: Tampa,Florida Status: Offline Points: 180 |
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Posted: Oct/22/2018 at 5:01pm |
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so would 5/16 be better?
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BjH
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Trader
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Joined: May/15/2018 Location: Ontario Status: Offline Points: 6912 |
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Posted: Oct/22/2018 at 5:33pm |
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3/8" fuel line should support 600 HP on a mechanical FP and 1000 HP with 14 PSI electric FP.
So what is in the Marlin? If stock 327 then 5/16" is plenty. 1/4" would be OK also but you may need a return line to keep up with the flow and not have pressure spikes. If stock 327 don't go for a high flow performance electric fuel pump. One with an internal flow regulator is better as the fuel cools the pump motor.
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detmarlin65
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Joined: Jul/12/2015 Location: Tampa,Florida Status: Offline Points: 180 |
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Posted: Oct/22/2018 at 6:12pm |
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i'am running a rebuilt 287 stock engine, with a mild cam and a 450 cfm Quick Fuel 4 barrel carb, with a electric fuel pump and a separate fuel regulator set at 5.5 psi. i do not want to run a return line, if its not necessary .
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BjH
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Boris Badanov
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Posted: Oct/22/2018 at 6:38pm |
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Personally I would use 5/16 stainless, but there is no bad choice.
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Gremlin Dreams
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jpnjim
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Posted: Oct/22/2018 at 8:04pm |
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I did 3/8" Copper Nickle fuel line and had a hard time bending it without kinking it (really!)
I think it's because I followed some advice to stretch the line out straight before working it. It comes in a roll, I stuck one end in my vice, rolled it out, and pulled the other end until all the bends were out of it and it was perfectly straight. As soon as I went to put a bend back in it, it kinked. I ended up very gently forming it with a tiny tubing bender I have, and even then it wanted to collapse and kink very easily. I ran smaller copper-nickle brake lines before this, did not straighten it out first and that stuff bent so easily and perfectly it was a breeze to install. Just a word to the wise, maybe I got a bad batch of the 3/8's, but I think it was from pulling it straight.
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PROSTOCKTOM
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Joined: Jun/20/2010 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 2458 |
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Posted: Oct/22/2018 at 9:10pm |
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Seamless 5/16" stainless steel is the route I would go. You do it one time and you'll never have to do it again.
Tom
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6768rogues
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Posted: Oct/23/2018 at 11:43am |
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I like the copper nickel. It flares very easily and it clamps down tightly enough in the flare fittings to be leak free. Stainless is a good product but it is hard so it is more problematic to flare and to have leak free at the fittings.
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akimmet
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Joined: Aug/02/2012 Location: Republic OH Status: Offline Points: 428 |
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Posted: Oct/25/2018 at 8:54am |
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I agree, stainless is a pain to flare. I don’t know of any reason why copper-nickel wouldn’t work just as well.
I have used 3/8” from a roll before, and didn’t have any of the issues mentioned by Jpnjim. Edited by akimmet - Oct/25/2018 at 8:57am |
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