Bendix disc brake issues still

You said it migrated from RH caliper to the LH caliper, that sounds like crud to me. Especially if they were rusty. I don't think brake systems are designed so that the component closest to the MC, in this case, the LH caliper, comes on first when the brakes are applied. That would make for built-in grabby disc brakes between LH front & RH front, with no way to adjust it out.

akimmet wrote: A caliper can easily rust up inside that quickly if there is old brake fluid still in the system. LF brake caliper is the first in the system so in if there's any slight pressure in the system it would be applied there. If the pressure isn't released heat starts to build and expansion causes more pressure, just a theory. Hydraulics simply do not operate like this. Assuming no flow restrictions or check valves (from dirt and rust), any pressure applied is equally distributed to the entire system.

What I can say for certain (and there's not a lot I can) is once the brake starts to slightly drag, if I don't touch the brake peddle at all the drag gets worst. If I don't  stop (which it'll do without me applying pressure) and release the pressure @ the bleeder the continual movement will eventually make it lock up solid.

I think the comments of crud still in the caliper or the piston bore being the problem are most likely. Unfortunately I don't have the space to tie up tearing it apart until I have my spare parts here from our other house.

Well, the old Bendix four piston calipers are $100 each (http://www.partsgeek.com/9qsbwsr-american-motors-ambassador-brake-caliper.html?utm_source=shoppingcom&utm_medium=pf&utm_content=dc&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+ShoppingCom&fp=pp&utm_term=American+Motors+Brake+Caliper), but the point is still valid. They used to be much more, but someone started casting new cores.

One thing about the Bendix brakes -- the seal is on the piston and not the caliper. That causes the bore to wear rather than the piston, so they are more prone to leaks later -- though it takes a long time for them to wear. The newer models (Baer, Willwood, etc.) all have the seal in the main body so that the easy to replace piston will wear.

If you have ANY corrosion BEHIND the seal the seal will tighten and cause the piston to stick. I had that issue with motorcycle calipers. They are aluminum bodies and not cast iron, but results would be the same. I had one that the brakes would drag continually once applied and it was a slight bit of corrosion behind the seal. If they are dragging and causing a lot of heat the fluid in the caliper can expand slightly and cause them to get tighter. This is especially true if you are running silicon brake fluid, which expands more than regular fluid.

Rick...you can get the Brake Warning Valve Repair kit from one of the Forum Members....but just go to his website.  I have bought many over the years and they work great.

hey, my reply above came out much bitc*ier than i ever intended, and i wanted to apologize before i edit it, since editing doesn't fix it for those who already read it. i know this stuff is tricky and hard to diagnose.