bearing question

I have an extra set of front wheel bearings and races for my 63 classic. will they also work on the rear of my 63 classic 770 wagon?

Ranger

Was the Dana 53 Rear Axle used on the 1963 classic 770 wagon? Not sure how to tell what I have.

Ranger

Any parts house should be ale to get you rear bearings. If you have a six cylinder it uses an AMC 15 rear axle, the V-8s use an AMC 20. If you're having trouble finding them because the parts house computers don't go back that far, check with American Parts Depot, Kennedy American, or other AMC parts suppliers. APD has them listed for $15 for the bearings and $9 for the races (you need to replace both, and the seals while it's apart).

Frank Swygert

what I can pull from APD is;

race 990 5502B 2ea.
pinion seal 990 6402C 2ea.
Front Bearing 990 5201B 2ea.

Ranger

Pulling the hub... What I always do is pull the entire axle then press it off the hub with a hydraulic press. That axle has been on there for a long time -- it may not come right off. I've had to leave one in the press under pressure over night. Don't know how long it took for it to pop loose. Set a wood block between a concrete floor and the end of the axle so the steel axle doesn't hit the hard floor. I set the press up so the axle end is only an inch or two from the wood block so it won't fall over when it does pop loose. Make sure the hub is well supported close to the axle so it doesn't warp.

The last time I did one I took the axles with backing plates to a machine shop and let them press the hubs off then the bearings, and press the new bearings on. Didn't cost much and no hassle for me. You have to torque the nuts after the axles are back in the car. It's hard to hold the axles without scaring them while the nuts are torqued to 250 ft/lbs. A 2' pull handle with 125 pounds on the end will equal 250 ft/lbs. If it's a bit tighter it won't hurt a things. You can use an 18" pull handle and stand on the end to tighten the nut and you should be fine for normal driving. If you're not comfortable with that tighten as tight as you can then take it to a shop with a torque wrench capable of 250-300 ft/lb and have them check it.

Frank Swygert

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longroof Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Apr/24/2015 Location: california Status: Offline Points: 79	Post Options Post Reply Quote longroof Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: bearing question Posted: Jun/05/2015 at 7:45pm
	I have an extra set of front wheel bearings and races for my 63 classic. will they also work on the rear of my 63 classic 770 wagon?
	Ranger

vinny Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jan/05/2012 Location: Calgary Status: Offline Points: 2837	Post Options Post Reply Quote vinny Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jun/05/2015 at 8:25pm
	No

longroof Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Apr/24/2015 Location: california Status: Offline Points: 79	Post Options Post Reply Quote longroof Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jun/06/2015 at 2:56am
	Was the Dana 53 Rear Axle used on the 1963 classic 770 wagon? Not sure how to tell what I have.
	Ranger

longroof Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Apr/24/2015 Location: california Status: Offline Points: 79	Post Options Post Reply Quote longroof Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jun/06/2015 at 3:29am
	does anyone know were I can get them?
	Ranger

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jun/06/2015 at 9:27am
	Any parts house should be ale to get you rear bearings. If you have a six cylinder it uses an AMC 15 rear axle, the V-8s use an AMC 20. If you're having trouble finding them because the parts house computers don't go back that far, check with American Parts Depot, Kennedy American, or other AMC parts suppliers. APD has them listed for $15 for the bearings and $9 for the races (you need to replace both, and the seals while it's apart).
	Frank Swygert

longroof Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Apr/24/2015 Location: california Status: Offline Points: 79	Post Options Post Reply Quote longroof Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jun/06/2015 at 11:39am
	Thanks, I looked at APD, but have to admit it can be a little confusing for me the way they list parts. Is there a hub puller you can recommend? I'll give them a call and Galvin's on Monday. Galvin's is about an two and half hours from my location.
	Ranger

longroof Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Apr/24/2015 Location: california Status: Offline Points: 79	Post Options Post Reply Quote longroof Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jun/06/2015 at 12:03pm
	what I can pull from APD is; race 990 5502B 2ea. pinion seal 990 6402C 2ea. Front Bearing 990 5201B 2ea.
	Ranger

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jun/07/2015 at 10:30am
	You need wheel bearings on the outer ends of the axle, not pinion bearings, right?. Those would be "rear axle side bearings" N315 7273 for race 990 4100B for bearing They don't have the outer seal listed. They should be readily available. When you pull a seal out get the number off of it. If the parts house can't cross reference the number call a bearing and drive supplier (yellow pages).
	Frank Swygert

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19676	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jun/07/2015 at 10:38am
	Pulling the hub... What I always do is pull the entire axle then press it off the hub with a hydraulic press. That axle has been on there for a long time -- it may not come right off. I've had to leave one in the press under pressure over night. Don't know how long it took for it to pop loose. Set a wood block between a concrete floor and the end of the axle so the steel axle doesn't hit the hard floor. I set the press up so the axle end is only an inch or two from the wood block so it won't fall over when it does pop loose. Make sure the hub is well supported close to the axle so it doesn't warp. The last time I did one I took the axles with backing plates to a machine shop and let them press the hubs off then the bearings, and press the new bearings on. Didn't cost much and no hassle for me. You have to torque the nuts after the axles are back in the car. It's hard to hold the axles without scaring them while the nuts are torqued to 250 ft/lbs. A 2' pull handle with 125 pounds on the end will equal 250 ft/lbs. If it's a bit tighter it won't hurt a things. You can use an 18" pull handle and stand on the end to tighten the nut and you should be fine for normal driving. If you're not comfortable with that tighten as tight as you can then take it to a shop with a torque wrench capable of 250-300 ft/lb and have them check it.
	Frank Swygert