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AZ road racer project

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Brad View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/16/2018 at 4:59pm
Ouch, not a nice sound to end your session with. Rebuild it better and stronger! 
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Javelin74 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Javelin74 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/16/2018 at 6:12pm
Started the stripping the car down to get the motor yanked for next weekend.  We'll see what the damage is and then figure out a game plan.

This is the video overlay from the session I posted above:


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iapexl8r View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote iapexl8r Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/17/2018 at 5:32pm
wow from the sound of the vid you were being nice to the motor I didnot hear you anchoring it at all (and that is the main culprit of spun rod bearings). Although I did find three things interesting.
1. I am not sure but it sounded like you ratteled it @ 5:53 time stamp. (would be nice if you had     a         tach signal fed into the video) Did not seem like you over reved it but you may have.

2. At 10.53 is another weird sound this may be shifter not sure.

3.  At 16:10 to 16:16 there is a odd sound I don't like.

Just something to check out not saying wether or not you will get something out of it just my 2 cents.
Also before you invest time in yanking motor I would pull the oil filter and open it up and have a look see.
 Chris
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Javelin74 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Javelin74 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/17/2018 at 5:58pm
Thanks Chris.  I'll have to double check but I'm 99% sure the rev limiter was set at 6200, which should be well within the safe zone considering the block prep, K1 rods and wiseco pistons.  My shift light is set to 6500 and I never saw it click once.  I was trying to be gentle on the motor by not over-revving it since it was the first session and I wanted to get through a couple of sessions before laying into it harder.

I do need to get a box that supports tach signals, oil pressure, etc..., to tie into my guages for the data logger.  But so far, I'm a little annoyed with the RaceChrono.  It seems to lag a bit compared to my videos.  If I sync them at one point, within 5 laps or so, there's a noticable lag on the data compared to the video.  I may be switching to Harry's next time out to see if its a RaceChrono issue, or a hardware issue (crappy old s4 samsung).

It's possible points 1 and 2 are bounces off the rev limiter (which is set through the Accel DFI 7 to cut spark and then fuel, if I remember correctly) as I come out of that corner in 2nd gear.  On the 3rd spot, that's just us backing out.  Someone ahead had gone off track or something if I recall, that gave us all a moment to wind back.

I tried starting it up when we were getting on the trailer and it was making a very noticable knock at that point and pressure seemed to be fluctuating so the spun bearing theory is looking pretty likely.  Plugs looked good but a bit rich...that caused me to think that could have been an issue.  I've heard of oil issues arising from a motor run too rich because the oil saturates with fuel.  Distributor gear looks good, so if there was an oiling issue, it doesn't seem to be drastic at least.  I haven't drained the pan yet (catch was full from a recent change to my Jeep), but I'm expecting to find a nice copper/bronze tint waiting for me...

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mtomko Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/30/2019 at 3:09pm
What model number did you use for the QA1 coil overs? I want to see how they compare price-wise to control freak / freak ride 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Javelin74 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/30/2019 at 3:16pm
Here's the info again, which I think is on page 4 of this thread.  Note that I'm using double adjustable shocks, but you could save a bit going with the single adjustable versions.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Adam,
I ordered the DD502 QA1 coilover shocks for the front end along with the bearing kit and stud mount conversion.  The length seems to work best if you use the stock type T-bar connector to the upper control arm, but the poly bushing is .750 so you'll either need to open up the bushing or mill the stock ones down (I think they are .875) and then have some type of lock ring grove cut in them or some other way to keep the shock from sliding around.
For springs, I ordered the QA1 GM type 550lb springs that are 10" in length and open up to 3.5" on top to fit in the stock seat.  
Just a big FYI-  I haven't had a chance to get the car on the ground to make sure this setup will work.  The QA1 coilovers are not threaded all the way up the body, so I may have issues getting the adjustment I need to get the body up, but I took a bunch of measurements along the way so it should work.  If nothing else, a custom spun spring may be needed to get ride height and stiffness where I want.  Just wanted to make sure you knew where I was with that part of the project and some remaining questions I haven't had a chance to answer yet.

EDIT #1
I ended up pulling the 10" GM type springs and went with the 8" Mustang II style coilover springs. The 10" ones were just too tall for a road racer. They might work with some looking for a lighter rate spring (450 lbs) and looking for an original ride height.

EDIT #2
See on page 11-12.
I ended up going with a set of 3/4" thick drop spindles.  My buddy Dave had a pair that were way too thick for his Spirit setup and was getting rubbing so I got some 3/8" thick ones and swapped him.  The 3/4" is probably overkill but hey, he already had them.  I have 1/2" too which would probably be very good for this type of setup and gaining some suspension movement.  Got these from bcsideshow on the forum.  Very nice quality and a Kudos for working with the guy.
The plates drop the front about 1.75" by raising the spindle/hub and brake caliper bracket for those who don't know what they are.  It ended up requiring raising the coilover over about 3/4" which is pushing the 8" springs to the limits of adjustment on the QA1 shocks.  May need to go to 10" springs for more height if needed/desired.  8" spring get you LOW!!!  but in a good way for a track car.  I noted that Donohue/Penske raised the hub about 3/4" on the trans-am cars based on the book Unfair Advantage so this mod is probably a decent idea.
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Brad View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Brad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/30/2019 at 6:48pm
Great post thanks for sharing. Sorry about your engine issues. Hope it's not too costly for you. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Javelin74 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/30/2019 at 7:07pm
I guess an update is long overdue.  Because of a number of other big events in my life (moved into a new home, had a baby, and helped to move the grandparents down from CO), the car has been mothballed until I can get a shop built on the new homefront.  The big reason for this decision was the scope of the damage to the motor and what it would entail, as you'll see below.

So the 360 ended up having a badly spun bearing on the No. 5 rod and left the crank junk and tweaked the rod out somewhat.  The machine shop suggested I locate a replacement for the rod, so after spending weeks tracking down any old K1 rods that might be around, I finally found a set of 8... then the shop said they were able to straighten the rod.  Needless to say, I'll go ahead and replace that rod.  I also had to track down a replacement crank.  I'm starting to realize even good, cheap 304/360 parts are beginning to run scarce.  I did finally locate a crank turned .10/.10.

While the engine is out, I've decided I wanted to address a few other issues that were bothering me before so I've just decided to put the engine rebuild on hold until I had a proper garage to work on the cars.  It took me far longer than I had expected to sell my old home, so that added to the delay in getting the projects restarted.  Now that I've been able to get that unloaded just before the new year, I've started tackling the house I wanted done, including looking into the specs for a shop/garage.  Fingers crossed, I'm hoping to have a functional shop done by summer and can get the engine rebuilt and installed for our next "cool" season in AZ, which won't be until about September...


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