Ax-15 4wd for swap

Thanks for the info. I suspected an issue. If I peeled off the 4.0, what options would I have being the crank
sensor is in the flywheel. Could I use the flywheel and bell with any other trans? The hornet is currently an auto. Could I swap flexplate from the 232 and add the crank sensor to the balancer via a kit
I think I've seen? I like the 4.0 idea but don't have much experience with 6's.


1. The sensor is on the bell housing, the crank has notches in it that the sensor "reads". If it's a 87-90 Renix style it has notches all the way around, as already stated. There is nothing wrong with the Renix electronics. The only limitation is in diagnosing problems. No cheap readers for it. Fortunately it's not hard to diagnose the old fashioned way -- know what each sensor does and test them. Figure out which is the likely culprit by knowing how the engine reacts to a bad one. There are guides on-line to help with all that. I run a Renix, and have been for years. Wouldn't pass one up, but the 91-95 OBD1 system is easier to deal with.  The Renix uses an induction coil CPS (crankshaft position sensor) that also gives an RPM signal. The 91+ models use a Hall Effect (magnetic) switch, no RPM signal.

2. Advance Adapters used to make a balancer kit that used the factory sensor. You should be able to use a factory sensor with the HESCO balancer. The only difference is the mounting bracket for the sensor. If using the 91+ system use a 99 or so Jeep Wrangler sensor, not the Cherokee. Easier to drill a hole in the right location on an older bell and use the sensor on any trans. The sensor tip needs to be only about 0.010 or less from the flywheel though -- all but touching. As far as clocking around the bell, measure from the two closest bell housing bolts on a Jeep trans, and measure from the forward edge back, then drill a 5/8" hole in the bell you intend to use. The HEXCO kit is rather pricey. Some have cut their own balancers, others have used aftermarket trigger wheels. Just needs the notches in the correct position. You can use a Renix flywheel with a 91+ system IIRC, just not the other way around. As far as I know the 91+ system only looks for the 3-4 notches before the wider TDC notch (three of them, evenly spaced around the flywheel/flexplate), and would ignore the extras. The Renix counts all of them for the RPM signal and wouldn't work without notches all around. Well, it actually looks at the square wave form of the electric signal generated by the induction coil, but the simpler explanation of "counts the notches" works...

3. You can use any manual trans, but if using an auto you will need a Wrangler flexplate for a TF trans. The AW4 flexplate will push a TF converter back into the trans too far, binding the pump. You can modify the converter or flexplate for the correct spacing, but since the TF comaptible flexplate is available and not too expensive, why take the risk (Wrangler used a TF999, similar to the 904 and 998 used in older AMCs).

4. If you have a complete parts vehicle (Cherokee) to work with, it's just about as simple as lifting everything from under the Jeep hood and plopping back down in the car. I prefer to take the under hood wiring out of the car for a 91+ system and use the Jeep wiring. Just have to change a few connectors and wire lengths (for lighting and such), and you end up with newer wiring and very little wiring to do to the car.

So the ax15 flywheel works with other trans but not the bellhousing is what I'm hearing, so you use the existing flywheel and modify the bell of your choice to accept the sensor or relocate it to the balancer. Besides wiring and trans mount, the rest is pretty much bolt in.

One more thing -- you need to use the 4.0L starter with the 4.0L flywheel. It will bolt right up, but the offset of the teeth on the flywheel/flexplate are different between the older model starter and 4.0L starter. 4.0L starter is the better one anyway, a bit smaller too.

The extra notches on the Renix flywheel must confuse the later computer system. Apparently the later computer DOES "count" the notches, and expect the large flat. Never tried it myself... thanks for pointing this out 6768rougues!

So the easiest plan looks like the Comanche 4.0 ( it's a 92) and purchase a 4.0 wrangler flexplate and drill the existing hornet auto bellhousing to accept the crank sensor. Since I won't have anything to use as a template for sensor location I'll be a little in the dark there. Since the ecu and wiring
Is included with the motor that should be ok. Any advice or if I'm wrong with any of my ideas let me know.

I was thinking if I had the two bolt version that would pretty much locate the position because I'm under the impression it mounts to two of the bellhousing bolts. Maybe I'm wrong, but if so the supplied bracket could be the template.
Re-reading your post it sounds like the sensor may mount with
It's own screws. Guess I'm unsure now.


Edited by Javelin69 - Mar/04/2017 at 11:02am