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PHAT69AMX 
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Joined: Jul/07/2007 Location: West Virginia Status: Offline Points: 5919 |
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 Posted: May/17/2019 at 10:05pm |
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Agree, 8 is low, lotta room between 15 and 8 though...
I do not have a picture of the rear tire at launch. It was just on a street strip car so not super fast, 106-107 ish trap speed, driven to track with radials that were swapped out for slicks once there. Stock Leaf Spring and Torque Link Rear Suspension, Stock Front susp, 6 Cyl Coil Springs, w/ Sway Bar, Front tires were 15x4 Weld DragLites with 26" Dia. 6.00 x 15 Bias Ply "Volkswagen" Tires. Here is a link to the current inflation information on the Mickey Thompson web site, it does differ from the old 2007 ? information previously posted:  Edited by PHAT69AMX - May/18/2019 at 3:06pm |
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WesternRed
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Joined: Aug/03/2010 Location: Australia Status: Online Points: 5798 |
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Posted: Jul/21/2019 at 6:39am |
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Will this cam wake up my 360 or put windows in the block:
Ultradyne Custom Solid Cam and Bullet .904 Solid lifters
251/255@50 and 608/621lift 108 lsa  |
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I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil.
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PROSTOCKTOM
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Joined: Jun/20/2010 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 2450 |
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Posted: Jul/21/2019 at 2:24pm |
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For what it's worth I ran a 250* solid lifter cam in a 302 and it was a great cam. I think you'll see noticeable gains in power with that grind.
Tom
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Molnar Technologies Full Service Dealer - Crankshafts & Connecting Rods
1969 AMC Rambler Rouge Race Car 1974 AMC Hornet Hatchback, Wally Booth Outlaw Nostalgic Pro Stock Race Car Project |
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WesternRed
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Joined: Aug/03/2010 Location: Australia Status: Online Points: 5798 |
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Posted: Jul/21/2019 at 5:43pm |
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Heads will need some work to accommodate that much lift, would anybody know if I'm going to need deeper valve reliefs? Might almost be time to put a 401 together although I'm probably going to need a gave before that.
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I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil.
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PROSTOCKTOM
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Joined: Jun/20/2010 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 2450 |
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Posted: Jul/21/2019 at 10:58pm |
Tom
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Molnar Technologies Full Service Dealer - Crankshafts & Connecting Rods
1969 AMC Rambler Rouge Race Car 1974 AMC Hornet Hatchback, Wally Booth Outlaw Nostalgic Pro Stock Race Car Project |
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WesternRed
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Joined: Aug/03/2010 Location: Australia Status: Online Points: 5798 |
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Posted: Jul/22/2019 at 12:07am |
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It’s pretty much at the limit with the current cam, but that is on the ends of the ramps as the current cam has more total duration, still don’t fancy my chances though. I have a bit of thinking to do on this I reckon.
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I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil.
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WesternRed
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Joined: Aug/03/2010 Location: Australia Status: Online Points: 5798 |
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Posted: Jul/31/2019 at 5:43pm |
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I have got the word back from Bullet on valve spring specs and they have suggested to install it at 102 ICL on the smaller cube 360 to provide more early torque with the relatively tame 3500 stall I have. The cam was originally specced for a 401 build running a set of Knowlton CNC ported Eddy heads.
I will have to make a decision on which direction to go with this thing. I have 291C, 993 and Edelbrock heads available to me. Currently running the 993 heads on the 360 and have been backyard ported by me, probably need to upgrade valves from the current factory jobs and do some work to accomodate the extra lift. The Eddies are untouched and would support the lift of the new cam, boost compression from current 10.5:1 up to 11:1 and would just need a bit of porting and some fresh valve springs, assuming the Eddy supplied valves are up to the task. 291C heads would have to start from scratch and once sorted would give me 11.5:1 compression. Do I persevere with the current 360 bottom end, which is ARP bolted factory rods and aftermarket cast pistons, how hard can I realistically spin this thing before something lets go? I have most of the stuff to build a stock stroke 0.030" over 401 including some nice Ross pistons, just need rods and a tonne of machine work. I'm also at 11.74 in the 1/4 now and if I run under 11.0, I will need a cage. I do like the idea of a 10 second Gremlin, but will need to check with the local fabricators to see if a cage will blow the budget. Also have to do some bodywork, would would probably be an opportune time to put the cage in as well. Any thoughts on what else I will need to upgrade for 10's, AMC20, 727, etc? Decisions? |
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I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil.
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PROSTOCKTOM
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Joined: Jun/20/2010 Location: Indiana Status: Offline Points: 2450 |
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Posted: Aug/01/2019 at 6:29pm |
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For what it's worth I would worry about a cage now and the engine later. You can always build an engine you can't always rebuild yourself. At my local tracks there are several guys run 155 mph in the 1/8 mile. 7.50 is the break and I tell the slow guys all the time they need cages. Maybe not so much for the speed they run but for the 155 mph car that crashes into you at the top end. Besides your going to need to stiffen up the car anyway if you add more power.
Tom
Edited by PROSTOCKTOM - Aug/02/2019 at 12:40pm |
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Molnar Technologies Full Service Dealer - Crankshafts & Connecting Rods
1969 AMC Rambler Rouge Race Car 1974 AMC Hornet Hatchback, Wally Booth Outlaw Nostalgic Pro Stock Race Car Project |
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Hurst390
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Joined: Apr/20/2008 Location: secret Status: Offline Points: 5818 |
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Posted: Aug/02/2019 at 7:16am |
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In my experience I would install the cam at 104-106
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SC/Hurst Rambler
11.62 120 100% Street Legal |
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WesternRed
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Joined: Aug/03/2010 Location: Australia Status: Online Points: 5798 |
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Posted: Aug/02/2019 at 5:33pm |
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Tom, I'm inclined to agree with you as far as doing some safety upgrades first, I certainly wouldn't want to be hitting the wall at 115-120 mph. Last season they let me run against one of the Drag Week cars, who spent 5 seconds spooling his turbos on the line and passed me at the finishing line at 188 mph, which could have ended badly for me in my rusty little old Gremlin if something went wrong. At this stage I don't even have a driveshaft loop in the car. I would be thinking basic cage, decent seat, harness and the driveshaft loop as a minimum. I actually find the factory seating position terrible, always seems like you are squished up against the door, so would be good to improve the driving experience.
Hurst, so you like having a bit more at the top end then. Probably address any lack or early torque with a converter upgrade. I'd have to be looking at spinning it to 7000 RPM anyway unless I do a gear change or taller tires.
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I've finally given up drinking for good...........now I only drink for evil.
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WesternRed wrote: