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Are stainless brake lines worth the extra expense? |
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348AMX
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 4165 |
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Posted: Oct/08/2015 at 10:45pm |
So I am doing some brake maintanence on the AMX. In 2006 I had replaced all the hardware in the drum assemblies, shoes, adjusters, springs, wheel cylinders, pins, and new parking brake cables front to back. At that time I had also replaced the rubber brake lines to the front brakes. Brakes worked awesome after that for 3 years until I took the car off the road and just been in the garage since moving it when needed out into the driveway and back to the garage etc etc. I hadnt replaced the master cylinder at that time because I had replaced it approx 5 years prior..so 2001 ish'. That seems to have failed this summer, and I have a new one on order(not a reman, but new).
So the hard brake lines from the master cylinder to the front brakes have been replaced before like 15 years ago, still look great on the outside, but they are bent with a tubing bender, not very accurate but good enough. But thinking now might be the time to get a pre bent sent from in-line tube, and do all the hardlines over. The long line along the passenger side under the car to the rear brakes had been replaced in 1988! by the Local AMC dealer and it still looks very good, no rust at all just dull metal look. It still has the original rubber lines on the rear axle. While I am replacing the lines in the engine bay I plan on detailing the distribution block because it was painted black when the car was repainted black in the early 80's, so it should be preserved quite nicely under the paint. I'll just remove it and get the original finish back. Is it oK to take it apart and check the "pistons" in there?? And is it overkill to get stainless lines? |
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FuzzFace2
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/05/2007 Location: Angier, N.C. Status: Offline Points: 10356 |
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One thing to know is the metal lines can rust from inside out also.
With SS lines do you like the nice shine they have, don't rust and hard to seal over the standard metal lines. Could get normal metal lines and clear coat them so they stay shiny on the out side and use DOT 5 fluid to keep the rust down on the inside. Me I went with normal lines as I did not want to deal with the hard to seal SS lines and DOT 3/4 fluid on my project Javelin. BTW I only have replaced the front lines. I need to re-check the rear ones and may replace them yet. Dave ---- |
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TSM = Technical Service Manual
75 Gremlin X v8 for sale 70 Javelin 360/auto drag car 70 Javelin 360/T5 Street car |
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71 Javelin AMX O.O.
AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/29/2008 Location: Minnesota Status: Offline Points: 655 |
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Hard to seal stainless lines is true. I had to go back a few times to re-tighten them. That was 4 years ago and they are holding good, look good and I don't have to worry about rust.
My opinion they are worth the extra cost. I even went to the extreme to get stainless fittings.
Steve
Original owner
1971 Javelin AMX
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SCRAGTOP
AMC Nut Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: Chesapeake, VA Status: Offline Points: 367 |
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I have the same sentiments...
Stainless lines look great but seal like crap... I had to tighten mine multiple times to get them to stop leaking. The worst part was that they leaked on my freshly painted firewall and frame rail under the master cylinder. So I had to repaint that area... I am not sure I would go back with stainless if I had to run new lines again. I might try the steel ones... I have less concern with them corroding on the inside, but I am worried about the exterior of the lines rusting. I don't know how thick the clear zinc plating is on the new steel lines is, but hopefully it will not rust or flash rust right away. |
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BDCVG
AMC Addicted Joined: Dec/19/2007 Location: Endless Mtns. Status: Offline Points: 993 |
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Clear coating the steel lines works good, I have stainless and got lucky They all sealed first time. Silicone (DOT 5) brake fluid does not absorb moisture. So the moisture stays separated from the fluid, settles in low spots in the lines and starts rust inside the lines. Change Your dot 3 or 4 fluid when it gets brown or every other year to avoid inside rust. It's that simple.
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1970 AMX 390 5 spd full Control Freaks front and rear suspension
2014 E63 AMG-S wagon 1965 Austin-Healey 3000 MK III |
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maximus7001
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jun/27/2011 Location: Winnipeg,Canada Status: Offline Points: 1086 |
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I changed the metal lines on my Eagle from the junction to the wheel cylanders 4 years ago. I used steel non coated non painted line figuring since the original lines lasted since 1985 that I would be ok for the remaining life of the car.
Was I ever wrong. After 4 winters the lines are now in really rough shape and I am worried about failure again. Lesson learned. At the very least soak them with some bbq paint after everything is sealed, washed and dry. Line above the gas tank on my Safari failed last month. It is being replaced with a coated line that I imported from autozone USA. I expect better results with the coated but it did not exist when I redid the Eagle. |
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1968 Javelin SST
1997 GMC Safari AWD 2001 Daewoo Nubira SX (Winnipeg only model) 1997 Honda Accord EX (Canadian Model) Winnipeg, home of the Jets. |
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Rogue343
AMC Addicted Joined: Feb/16/2011 Location: Norwalk, OH Status: Offline Points: 1004 |
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Used stainless lines from Fine Lines on the Rogue. Small amount of liquid teflon as recommended on the fittings during install. Eight years old, look good still and no leaks.
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1967 Rambler Rogue 'X' code 343 4 speed
1966 Rambler American 440 4 door Factory 290 (now 360) 4 speed VIN 100003 |
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SensibleSpectaculars
AMC Nut Joined: Jul/25/2010 Location: New Jersey Status: Offline Points: 472 |
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I do all my brake lines in NiCopp (nickel-copper alloy) now. Very easy to flare, easy to work with in general, and doesn't rust. Of course this is for homebrew lines, I don't know if any premade lines are available in this material.
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mstrcrftr
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jul/12/2010 Location: houston Status: Offline Points: 2066 |
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usually the problems with stainless comes down to the double flaring process that a person uses. its not soft like copper and is not malleable. you need to have a de-burring tool for the inside of the tube, in order to correctly de-burr AND resize the tip that you are going to double flare. the inside of the tube needs to be beveled correctly for the flaring tool to do its job correctly.
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348AMX
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/03/2007 Location: Massachusetts Status: Offline Points: 4165 |
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Thanks for the replies, I was unaware of the sealing characteristics of the stainless lines. I think I'll get the OEM kit and pass on the stainless.
Should I take apart the distribution block and inspect the internals? I don't have the metal spring/pin that fits into the plastic nut in the center of the block. The plastic nut is still good but I remember removing the pieces under it a long time ago and guess i never put them back in under the plastic nut. SO there's fine lines..and inline tube, any preference between the 2 for fit and accuracy to original? |
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