Anyone want to "guess" what my AMX will do the 1/4

Interesting - I run 10w-40, run 25-30 psi idle, and run 70 psi after warmed up on the highway, before that the gauge is above 70, till it warms up a bit............
When I first start the car, OP is way above 60 at about 2,000 rpm.
Guess I haven't lost the touch.............. and shows what a STOCK AMC oiling system can do.
Yes, it's accurate - I had my transmission pressure gauge set on it when I built it.
I recently found out using my GPS device that what I THOUGHT was a sustained drive at 75 was REALLY a sustained drive at more like 83 for those hours......
I almost begin to wonder if my issues are not related to TOO MUCH oil moving about inside. I put the notches in the bearings so it's shooting a lot of oil up at the pistons and cam - however with a tight engine and tight bearings, it's supposed to be less oil being thrown about. (loose bearings can actually increase oil consumption! That's due to oil being thrown from the journals onto the pistons and cylinder walls, more than the "oil control rings" can control. That's a proven fact.)

So where's your time slip????  Curious to see what it REALLY does.  We ALL know how accurate the butt-dyno isn't.
What did you (or your shop) do to the heads besides the normal valve job stuff? Mine DOES suffer drainback issues, but if you saw how much oil that much pressure sends up into the valve covers....

(I figure that since I've got good new tires, well balanced, all new suspension and everything tight and in line now, maybe pmm otta run it down the track............if I can get the carb straightened out before then.)

Timeslip will come after I have the front end aligned...the left front tire screaches when I take slow, around corners ....kinda like when going up a ramp in a parking garage turning...except it does it on the street?  Needs to get an accurate alignment toe, caster and strut rod adjustments THEN when I know its safe I'll take it to the track.  I have until the end of october...but will shoot for the next couple of weeks sometime.  Also noticed a thin film of oil residue/vapor just under the front of the intake on the block surface above the timing cover but below the intake...that could be from the poor fit of the oil fill tube in the intake...but if I run my finger over the smooth block surface in that area there is dark almost carbony oil residue.

Edited by 348AMX - Aug/17/2009 at 5:04pm

billd wrote: maybe pmm otta run it down the track............if I can get the carb straightened out before then.)

I'd drive it like it were my own.

Did some tuning tonight...bumped my timing from 10 to 14 degrees initial total timing works out to 35 degrees all by 3000 RPM...it is a bit more aggressive with the extra 4 degrees,  runs good....has one step colder plugs autolite 64's and a rich jetting on the carb so no detonation(audible anyway)..works for me...I'll probably run some race gas when I get there since I have no idea if it is going to ping on the top end full throttle at the end of the 1/4.

Edited by 348AMX - Aug/18/2009 at 10:59pm

  Well they are 275-60-15's  26" they are WIDE....I think dropping the pressure down from 35PSI to ?, will help a lot make them grip better,, just not sure how low is too low for the rear tire?  I'll keep the front at 35PSI....I experiment with 25 PSI for the rear tire/s I remember it hooked better with 28 PSI so maybe 25 will do it.