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Another AMC 20 Question

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fmahannah View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fmahannah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/20/2018 at 10:48am
OK, what worried me was that the other side looks nothing like that and was rusted, but the hot looking side was not rusted. Thanks

Originally posted by 1970390amx 1970390amx wrote:

The overheated look is from the forming process of the tube when new
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpnjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/20/2018 at 10:57am
This is probably every single kind of wrong one single person (me!) could come up with.. LOL

but here's what I did to take a slight bend out of mine:

I completely misused a harbor freight press as my I-beam
made a plate at one end to secure that tube
chains to attach the housing
a bottle jack to apply some pressure in the direction I needed to go
a MIG as a heat source to help it along the way
and a hub-less axles shaft as an indicator to when the tube was where I wanted it.

not meant to inform or instruct anyone,
except maybe as an example of how not to do it Tongue









71 P-code 4spd Javelin/AMX
some Jeeps and some Fords
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jpnjim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/20/2018 at 9:14pm
This was one of the links I used to sight my housing as bent:


bent


straight

71 P-code 4spd Javelin/AMX
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote akimmet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/21/2018 at 11:01am
Originally posted by fmahannah fmahannah wrote:

I wish I knew more about what I was doing with rear ends LOL

Here is a pic of the weld on the drivers side which looks old and normal

Drivers Side

Here is the passenger which after de-greasing showed a shiny weld that looks fresher

Passenger Side

And lastly, on the drivers side the area where the bearings are seemed too clean and looked bluish like maybe it had been heated up pretty bad? The other side is rusty and has no shine or bluish color to it. Is this what it might look like if the bearing was bad and had been seizing up?

Thanks for any advice, this forum is awesome for answers

Drivers side bearing area




While the one weld looks poorly done, it should be good enough. I have seen worse axle tube weld jobs straight from the factory. Your pictures don’t seem to show anything I would be afraid to use. The only concern is if the axle housing is still straight. The AMC20 axle housings do have weak axle tubes that can be prone to bending. However, it is only a major problem on Jeeps and Jeep trucks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fmahannah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/21/2018 at 11:21am
Ok thanks. I just wondered why the one weld appears to be newer and poorly done when supposedly this car has never had any driveline work done to it. The rear shocks were even the originals when I pulled them out
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 1948kaiser Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/21/2018 at 11:54am
that is the best use i have seen of their equipment
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fmahannah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/04/2018 at 6:20am
I have started to tear down my AMC 20 rear end, which I am pretty sure has been worked on before. I noticed the axle bearings that are in it are Timken. Does anyone know if factory used timken bearings?  If not then this axle has definitely been apart before. Which seems odd since the rear shocks were the factory originals and so was the rest of the cars suspension.

I also noticed almost a quarter inch of shims on the drivers side, which seemed like a lot. And a yellow sticker on one of the axle shafts with info about torque etc. Did factory axles have such a sticker?

Any details always appreciated ... just trying to figure out if this axle has been rebuilt and if so why they had to mess with it.

Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve_P Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/05/2018 at 11:40am
That's a good picture of the heat blackened axle tube end- I've talked about that before, and there are a few other parts on the car like that.

The plug welds look factory- one side was obviously protected better with oil or undercoating. The key is that both welds look like the area directly next to it.

The factory used Timken but .25" of shims is very abnormal. I haven't seen a sticker on a factory axle shaft so it sounds like it was changed. The factory pressed on the hubs to cut the splines and then tightened the nuts. The axles had paint marks on them to determine R and L.

Peter Marano (is he still around?) worked in the AMC axle department in the 80s? and said the tube end bores are .06" lower than the differential bearing bores to allow for the tube's upward deflection when the car is on the ground. Something to keep in mind.

Edit- I have a new in box twin grip unit if you haven't bought one yet- the second gen type like APD has.

Edited by Steve_P - Jun/05/2018 at 11:48am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/05/2018 at 12:51pm
Frankly I hope that shim pack thickness is a typo - I've not seen anything much different than about .030 for example. At .25 you are talking almost ten times that amount - that's a lot. I'd wonder if I found anything much over .125, frankly.
I don't generally try to remember all of the shims I've used over the years as far as thickness, etc. but that much would for sure draw my attention and have me asking "what's up with this".

New hub to axle even the TSM says to set a specific axle depth in the hub then torque the nut. That means if you use a new hub on an existing axle, press it on until you reach their spec on the end of axle protruding from the hub. That ensures the splines are cut into the hub to specs.
Putting the same hub back on it's a matter of tightening the nut but I still prefer to make the axle protrusion through the hub match specs. I figure if it's less than it's not in the hub as far as the factory had it.......... if I match the spec in the TSM then I know it's on as far as they had it at the factory. 
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