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AMX 401 Take 5

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Boris Badanov View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boris Badanov Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/21/2014 at 6:21pm
Originally posted by Slate Slate wrote:

It's an idea. Figure it out. I don't know, and don't care, until such time that I do it. But like any thing worth doing, I've begun preparing by buying the parts. When I do it myself, I'll let curiosity seekers like yourself know. Clap

Steve
 
Sort of an open question with the answer already known.
The easy way would be to make a spacer for the filter and rout the high
pressure side out and back in a custom made sandwitch spacer.
One may already be available.
 
Just looking to see if anyone has tried it Smile
 
Cooling bypassed oil would be nice but it's a complex mess
to tap into, but since I have the parts made to make it happen
I may try it.
 
Like i said, looking to see whom has tried it.
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Slate View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Slate Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/21/2014 at 6:53pm
^  I have the cooler and I have that item that I traded something for from someone in N.H. ( nope, haven't forgotten). But haven't thought through the approach yet, and am not personally fond of open questions.

I will ask this though, why not, in part, use the trans cooler approach for part of the plumbing and the cooling?

Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boris Badanov Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/21/2014 at 7:05pm
I have two aluminum ones, I am modding one to have a outlet
where it transfers to the oil return, block the transfer bore half
way and add an inlet so the bypassed oil goes through a cooler.
I may make a all new one for the cooler.
 
The only issue I have is I ran out of ultra high silica aluminum plate
so I may be forced to make one from steel or use a Bultear steel plate.
 
The steel one would be easy to mod also :-)
 
Designing fixes for AMC oil systems is like "perfecting ways of making sealing wax"
but i am a creature obsessed.
 
By the way, my plan is to use a large trans cooler or similar devise.
Obviously we are thinking alike. Using returned oil will be low pressure
and should require no special high pressure plumbing.
 
 


Edited by Boris Badanov - Jul/21/2014 at 7:08pm
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Slate View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Slate Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/21/2014 at 7:39pm
My "oil" cooler is actually a power steering cooler from a Mercury, but is big. If It doesn't work, when the time comes, I'll get something else and use this as a power steering cooler.

Holley has an interesting plumbing sketch for an Earl's cooler that uses the heater circuit.

Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red Devil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/22/2014 at 9:58am
I ran a PermaCool remote filter and tubular oil cooler on a 130k mile 360 about 18 years ago. Used a screw on adapter to replace the filter. They also make sandwich adapters.

Before the cooler, hot idle pressure was < 10psi and cruise about 35-38psi. The cooler increased pressure about 5psi all around, so about 40-42psi cruise.

Removed the cooler when fit a rebuilt engine and planned to install with a thermostat for better warm up and cold weather performance, but haven't got around to it.

If you put in a cooler, make sure it's appropriately sized. A transmission or power steering cooler may be restrictive. A proper oil thermostat is also a good plan as is an oil temperature gauge.

Hope this helps,RD.
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Boris Badanov View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boris Badanov Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/22/2014 at 11:53am
Good info. Thanks!
 
May sound crazy but I was thinking of cooling bypassed oil.
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JERSEYJOE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/22/2014 at 11:55am
My project car runs a big cooler.  Also I  use a check valve to prevent drain back.  It's plumbed with an external filter and Accusump.  This is a proven setup that I ran on the street back in 81-86 and I am just updating the size and quality of the cooler thitime. 
1985 J-20 PLOW TRUCK
1977 CJ 7 360 T-18 D 300
1970 AMX ex-SCCA car


SPEED COSTS MONEY HOW FAST DO YOU WANT TO GO?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red Devil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/22/2014 at 12:01pm
Cooling relief oil would be a good idea if it was always relieving oil ... at higher rpms it should, but based on pressures some see, maybe not?

Also need to be careful with that as the stock pump relieves back to inlet to help prevent cavitation ... but can create a fair bit of localized heat with recirculating oil. If relief oil is being routed back to the sump and not internally routed back to the inlet, may need to fit a larger suction line to prevent cavitation.

Hope this helps,RD.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Slate Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/22/2014 at 11:36pm
I just remembered after seeing JOE's photo that I have a proper engine oil cooler as well ( I can't recall the original source- might have been a Nascar bit with AN plumbing ) so I'll use it.

Nice heads up about what factors to consider. 

Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel Machine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/25/2014 at 7:46am
Originally posted by Rebel Machine Rebel Machine wrote:

Originally posted by Red Devil Red Devil wrote:

Not referring to Tony specifically as several have posted high idle and cruise pressures ... just think some see these high numbers and think their engine is doomed to explode if theirs is a bit low.

I suggested to Steve that he try blocking the pump relief to see what pressure he got(being careful not to rev too high of course) to check if the relief is a factor. Remember not long ago someone posted about too much pressure because the relief was stuck, so stock pump can make good pressure if relief is working right. IIRC, Tony had shimmed his relief spring? Also is running a deep pan, so not a band-aide but a good plan.

The owner's manual says 10psi hot idle is satisfactory. If you have 15psi idle and 40psi cruise sounds ok to me. Drive it and have fun.


Shimming the relief spring is something I definitely want to try as well as verifying the pump gear to wall clearance. The cold water test I did makes me want to look at that closer.

-Steve-




Made a shim out of a split lock washer and installed it last night. Hope to road test it this weekend.

-Steve-
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