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AMC Spirit Rally Car

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nickleone View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nickleone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/21/2018 at 4:26pm
For info on RWD rally cars from the last century go to:
http://www.doublegmotorsport.com/rsprep/prepindex.html

Nick
nick
401 71 Gremlin pro rally car sold
390 V8 SX/4 pro rally car sold
1962 Classic SW T5 4 wheel disc brakes
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farna View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/22/2018 at 6:36am
I'd say the Grass Roots guys are probably right. As mentioned, the HR-1 and SR-4 are pretty much the same except for gear ratios. Since we know Ford used the SR-4 over here in Pintos/Mustang IIs, it's a good bet they used them in some of their European RWD cars. Ford license produced several BW trannys, notably the early autos, so it's a good bet that's what they did. That means there could be some differences, such as output splines, input lengths, and bolt pattern. If the Grass Roots guys claim them to have interchangeable internals I'd still say they are likely to be correct. Might be only one way to know for sure though. 

As for rear axles, doesen't sound like you need much of an upgrade. You might want to look at the Ford 7.5" from an 83-92 Ranger. It's a bit stronger than the AMC 15 (7-9/16") due to the one piece axle/hub. Wheel surface to wheel surface is 56.5". Gear ratios range from 3.08 to 4.56, but 4.56 is hard to come by -- I suspect only commercial chassis. I've seen 4.10 in 4x4 applications. You can use the rear axle from a 2WD or 4WD Ranger/Bronco II. That would give you an upgrade without a big weight difference. Jeep D35s are too wide, but you can use them with the Jeep deep offset wheels.
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jebidia24 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jebidia24 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/26/2018 at 8:15am

Here are some quick photos of the car.  The cold winter and unheated garage made work over the winter slow but as the temp rises so does the pace of work.  The interior and glass is out and the only things remaining is the suspension (front and rear), rear axle assembly, gas tank and lines, rear bumper, and subframe.  Sounds like a lot but these should come out easily with the car up in the air.  Got my cage welder lined up and now I am waiting on a quote for soda blasting before the seam welding begins.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote g-man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/26/2018 at 3:47pm
I would love to see the pics...but nothing came thru except this:


Don't give up,
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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/26/2018 at 5:30pm
Originally posted by g-man g-man wrote:


I would love to see the pics...but nothing came thru except this:


Don't give up,
g-man



I think your can find his pix on the grassroots site... If i find it, I'll post a link.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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g-man View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote g-man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/26/2018 at 6:26pm
Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

 I think your can find his pix on the grassroots site... If i find it, I'll post a link.

Cool...thanks,

g-man
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304-dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/27/2018 at 1:05pm
Originally posted by g-man g-man wrote:


Originally posted by 304-dude 304-dude wrote:

 I think your can find his pix on the grassroots site... If i find it, I'll post a link.


Cool...thanks,

g-man


Seems like the two spirits on the GRM site are gone. Like both moved on since the new year or something. Maybe the photos will pop up once the thread is edited by he op, or someone has a link to them.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
Ford Racing 3.25 gears & 9" /w Detroit locker
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jebidia24 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jebidia24 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/28/2018 at 3:47pm
Ok, I need some advice.  I have a AMC 121 (VW EA831) with the subframe.  Engine parts for the EA831 are plentiful as long as you look to the Porsche 924 tuning world (assuming those parts fit, they should).  My car is naturally an auto, so I've been on the hunt for a EA831 to HR1 bellhousing.  I may have found one but it is uncertain.  Some other trans parts are easier to come by.  I also have an iron duke with it's subframe and bellhousing (and SD4 valve cover).  The main reason for going with the EA831 was high redline and ease of tuning/spare parts where the duke is waning (a stock duke is also weak), both are lightweight compared to the 258 or 304.  I have recently got word of a super duty 4 (SD4) forged crank, and SD4 head.  The SD4 is well known for large HP numbers as well as having a higher redline (comparative to the EA831) and relative strength.  I can mate a SD4 modified Iron Duke up to a drivetrain much easier than a EA831.  As for my earlier apprehension towards using a pontiac engine in my amc, it shouldn't make any difference as I was planning on using a VW engine anyway (I needed to hear someone else say it).  I was under the impression though that I couldn't use a SD4 crank in my stock duke block, I could get a SD4 block but  Rally America rules are strict regarding block make changes (SD4 block never offered in production vehicle).  From what I am hearing though (any duke users I would like to hear from you) I can use a SD4 crank in my duke with SBC rods.  I may have to modify the block to accept the SD4 head but that is ok.  I haven't done any engine or drivetrain mods or purchased any parts (only research).  I am in the final stages of tear down and am readying for soda blasting, seam welding, and cage installation so I am in no hurry other than SD4 parts are scarce.  Should I go with the SD4 parts in my duke or stick to the EA831?  Once again, I already own both engines and subframes (plus the iron duke bellhousing).

Edited by jebidia24 - Mar/28/2018 at 3:50pm
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mitchito View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote mitchito Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/28/2018 at 4:27pm

I'll just leave this here
1982 Rambler Lerma
1981 Rambler Lerma coupe
1978 American (Concord base)
1977 Gremlin
1976 Pacer X
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jebidia24 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jebidia24 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/19/2018 at 3:43pm





I was able to find some SD4 parts, so that is the route I am taking.  I am going to try to put SD4 components in my stock Duke block at least for the log booking process and then run it until is breaks at which time I will put everything in an SD4 block.  I am going to keep all of the EA831 parts and not modify the crossmember so if I need to go back to that engine, I have that option.  Also, (if anybody can see these pictures) i know why my old DUke dung the bed.  If anybody knows of a different picture hosting service that is forum friendly, hit me up. I have tried a few with no luck but it could have just been a bad day.
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