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Amc hood scoops |
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uncljohn
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/03/2013 Location: Peoria AZ Status: Offline Points: 5394 |
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I am finding a need to create a hood scoop for my Hornet. I though have access to a mold for one to make it out of fiberglass and I am going to do that because I can and I have never done that. Besides it gives me the experience needed to make the fiberglass reproduction rubber end caps for Concords, Spirits and Eagles end of bumper extensions. I need a few of those and they are not available anywhere.
As far as afixing things like that to the hood? Seems to me that fiber-glassing them on should work as well as it does for repairing rust damage which I have done a fair share of. And I am significantly better at laying up a fiberglass replacement than welding in a patch panel. Done right it should last a life time, done wrong, it can be measured in minutes. The only rust damage part I ever had come back off had been leaded. That cured me of trying to learn how to do that form of repair. |
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70 390 5spd Donohue
74 Hornet In restoration 76 Hornet, 5.7L Mercury Marine Power 80 Fuel Injected I6 Spirit 74 232 I-6, 4bbl, 270HL Isky Cam |
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Rumblrr
AMC Apprentice Joined: Mar/05/2009 Location: Harleysville , Status: Offline Points: 61 |
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Hi do you have a phone number or e mail for Mike Pierce that I can contact him about buying a SS AMX bolt on metal hood scoop
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THE MENACE
AMC Addicted Joined: Nov/04/2008 Location: So. California Status: Offline Points: 4428 |
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Mike has shut down his website but you can call him at 1-443-309-6418. I have one of the reproduction SS/AMX metal hood scoops that Mike sells and they are just like the original !!! Dennis
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Former Owner of:
The Craig Breedlove "AERO AMX" Still Owner: SS/AMX #9 replica (THE BIG MENACE) 70 AMX 416, EFI, Nash 5 speed 70 Javelin 401, 727 (Wife's) 72 Gremlin Autocross Project. |
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tyrodtom
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/14/2007 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 6199 |
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I can safely say I never seen a fiberglass hood scoop bonded to a steel not eventually fail.
Every one, bonded even with the best available bonding adhesives eventually begin showing small cracks at the bonding line. I've been using 3M, Lord Fusor, and other adhesives, 15-20 years now. If you read the directions you'll see they all have limitations, and most users don't read those directions completely evidently. Because I've seen a lot of failures. When I do use the adhesive for metal to metal, I always at least anchor the begining and ending of each bonding area with a spot weld, and sometimes with a few in the middle too. That is a approved I-CAR repair method, and most car builders use that method too. Bonding fiberglass to metal on a hood is about the most hostile enviroment you can ever subject a repair to. Heat from both sides, and vibration from both the engine, and hood closing. Then throw in the different expansion ratios of fiberglass and steel. No matter what material you use, it will crack at the bonding area eventually. If you want a permanent metal hood scoop on a metal hood, and want it to look one piece, welding is the only way long term. And that takes someone really good, even with a TIG welder.
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66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.
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Rumblrr
AMC Apprentice Joined: Mar/05/2009 Location: Harleysville , Status: Offline Points: 61 |
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Thanks I will try to contact him
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PHAT69AMX
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/07/2007 Location: West Virginia Status: Offline Points: 5905 |
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Opinions vary, I wanted ease of mounting, serviceability, and reverse-ability.
So I got the fiberglass with out-turned flanges from American Performance in Florida in the 1980's ! Mounted it with only 4 Stn Stl Soc Hd Cap Screws, nylon and stn stl washers on top, fender washers and nylok nuts on the bottom side, with adhesive back foam on the scoop flanges between the scoop and the hood. Scoop painted flat black on the inside. This was all decided and done long before the internet. I eyeballed the position on the top of the hood without thought to the underside. I cut a 10 inch diameter hole in 2 hoods, 1st one was a Javelin Hood, and I centered the hole and LEARNED the carb is NOT CENTERED on the hood... 2nd Hood I cut a 10" hole in was an AMX Hood and it was centered on the Carb... A Nibbler was used on both, kept the cut-out piece from both for possible future reversal... Eyeballed the 4 mounting bolt holes from up top and got just dumb lucky... The 2 rear holes just happened to fall at oval cut-out locations on the hood inner structure, and the 2 front holes right near or thru an inner structure flange and rib... dumb lucky ! This made for a pretty dang gone secure scoop mounting with only 4 1/4-20 Stn Stl Btn Hd Cap Screws. Does it look maybe kinda "tacked-on"... well yeah maybe... but I had other considerations. Most importantly, "do your homework" before executing installation, carb center, hole location, etc... Edited by PHAT69AMX - Oct/24/2018 at 12:29pm |
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AMXFSTBK390
AMC Addicted Joined: Oct/22/2013 Location: SF Bay Area Status: Offline Points: 3489 |
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PHAT69AMX: That is the mounting technique best suited IMO for a f'glass or plastic hood scoop. I made alterations to a 71 Pontiac T/A shaker hood for my 56 Chevy 2-dr, similar to the 55 Chevy in Amer Graff movie. It had ~20 ss small bolts using a firm rubber gasket. The mounting similar to a 427 ac Cobra's. The bolt holes can be seen in the picture. The scoop was shaped to face forward. Yes, this scoop mounting gives it a justified appearance but being absolutely intentional adds to its purpose in design.
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Questions are powerful tools...what's in your toolbox?
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tyrodtom
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/14/2007 Location: Virginia Status: Offline Points: 6199 |
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I've worked on many cars with factory bonded on panels, very few are held on with bonding adhesives alone. Most have anchoring spot welds on the corners, and at intervals. At I-car I was told not all the car markers approve total adhesive bonding of their repair panels, some require anchor spot welds. I've come upon too many adhesive repair failures, factory and aftermarket , to trust it totally by itself. And the adhesives the aviation industry uses are applied and oven baked. And very seldom is it going to be steel. Carbon fiber bonded to aluminum, fiberglass bonded to aluminum, etc. not room temperature cured. Apples to oranges to compare their practices to automotive repair bonding.
Edited by tyrodtom - Oct/24/2018 at 3:24pm |
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66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.
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ADAM12MATADOR
AMC Addicted Joined: Dec/03/2011 Location: New City, N.Y. Status: Offline Points: 518 |
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I found out a few years ago that the carb wasnt centered on my Gremlin after i cut the hole in my fiberglass hood. When using a good quality body panel adhesive for metal, you have to read the directions. Make sure that the bonding agent will work on 2 different thickness of metal, if the hood and the scoop are different gauges. They do make an adhesive to bond the fiberglass scoop to a metal hood. I would go and buy the metal scoop and bolt it to the hood. If you want to weld it on you have to be careful of the hood warping or oil canning. Then yu have to use plastic filler to flatten out the panel. That is when sh-t happens. The filler might crack from constantly opening and closing the hood and the air turbulence inside the scoop , especially at highway speeds. The scoop will literally want to lift off the hood.
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PHAT69AMX
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/07/2007 Location: West Virginia Status: Offline Points: 5905 |
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Yes, all of us, anyone, I'm sure, is glad to find out the Carb is NOT centered BEFORE cutting a hole in an otherwise good RARE expensive Hood! AMXFSTBK390 - that custom scoop for your '56 Shoebox looks really good. Was there ever an "official" aftermarket version offered for sale of the scoop on the Black '55 Chevy in ? It is my humble opinion based on the history I've read and "dates" that the scoop on the American Graffiti '55 was the basis for the Aurora AFX HO Slotcar '55 Chevy Bodies... |
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