TheAMCForum.com Homepage
Forum Home Forum Home > The Garage > Body/Interior
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - Amc hood scoops
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

Click for TheAMCForum Rules / Click for PDF version of Forum Rules
Your donations help keep this valuable resource free and growing. Thank you.

Amc hood scoops

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <123>
Author
Message
uncljohn View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Jan/03/2013
Location: Peoria AZ
Status: Offline
Points: 5394
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uncljohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/23/2013 at 8:06am
I am finding a need to create a hood scoop for my Hornet. I though have access to a mold for one to make it out of fiberglass and I am going to do that because I can and I have never done that.  Besides it gives me the experience needed to make the fiberglass reproduction rubber end caps for Concords, Spirits and Eagles end of bumper extensions. I need a few of those and they are not available anywhere.
As far as afixing things like that to the hood?  Seems to me that fiber-glassing them on should work as well as it does for repairing rust damage which I have done a fair share of.  And I am significantly better at laying up a fiberglass replacement than welding in a patch panel.

Done right it should last a life time, done wrong, it can be measured in minutes.
The only rust damage part I ever had come back off had been leaded.  That cured me of trying to learn how to do that form of repair.
70 390 5spd Donohue
74 Hornet In restoration
76 Hornet, 5.7L Mercury Marine Power
80 Fuel Injected I6 Spirit
74 232 I-6, 4bbl, 270HL Isky Cam
Back to Top
Rumblrr View Drop Down
AMC Apprentice
AMC Apprentice
Avatar

Joined: Mar/05/2009
Location: Harleysville ,
Status: Offline
Points: 61
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rumblrr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/18/2018 at 11:10pm
Hi do you have a phone number or e mail for Mike Pierce that I can contact him about buying a SS AMX bolt on metal hood scoop
Back to Top
THE MENACE View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Nov/04/2008
Location: So. California
Status: Offline
Points: 4428
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote THE MENACE Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/19/2018 at 9:44pm
Originally posted by Rumblrr Rumblrr wrote:

Hi do you have a phone number or e mail for Mike Pierce that I can contact him about buying a SS AMX bolt on metal hood scoop
 

Mike has shut down his website but you can call him at 1-443-309-6418.

I have one of the reproduction SS/AMX metal hood scoops that Mike sells and they are just like the original !!!  

Dennis        
Former Owner of:
The Craig Breedlove "AERO AMX"

Still Owner:
SS/AMX #9 replica (THE BIG MENACE)
70 AMX 416, EFI, Nash 5 speed   
70 Javelin 401, 727 (Wife's)
72 Gremlin Autocross Project.
Back to Top
tyrodtom View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted


Joined: Sep/14/2007
Location: Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 6199
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tyrodtom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/19/2018 at 10:16pm
I can safely say I never seen a fiberglass hood scoop bonded to a steel not eventually fail.
Every one, bonded even with the best available bonding adhesives eventually begin showing small cracks at the bonding line.

I've been using 3M, Lord Fusor,  and other adhesives, 15-20 years now.   If you read the directions you'll see they all have limitations, and most users don't read those directions completely evidently.   Because I've seen a lot of failures.

When I do use the adhesive for metal to metal,   I always at least anchor the begining and ending of each bonding area with a spot weld, and sometimes with a few in the middle too.  That is a approved I-CAR repair method,   and most car builders use that method too.

Bonding fiberglass to metal on a hood is about the most hostile enviroment you can ever subject a repair to.   Heat from both sides, and vibration from both the engine, and hood closing.
Then throw in the different expansion ratios of fiberglass and steel. 
 No matter what material you use,  it will crack at the bonding area eventually.

If you want a permanent metal hood scoop on a metal hood,   and want it to look one piece, welding is the only way long term.   And that takes someone really good,   even with a TIG welder.
66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.
Back to Top
Rumblrr View Drop Down
AMC Apprentice
AMC Apprentice
Avatar

Joined: Mar/05/2009
Location: Harleysville ,
Status: Offline
Points: 61
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rumblrr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/20/2018 at 2:14am
Thanks I will try to contact him
Back to Top
PHAT69AMX View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Jul/07/2007
Location: West Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 5905
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PHAT69AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/24/2018 at 12:09pm
Opinions vary, I wanted ease of mounting, serviceability, and reverse-ability.
So I got the fiberglass with out-turned flanges from American Performance in Florida in the 1980's !
Mounted it with only 4 Stn Stl Soc Hd Cap Screws, nylon and stn stl washers on top,
fender washers and nylok nuts on the bottom side, with adhesive back foam on the scoop
flanges between the scoop and the hood.  Scoop painted flat black on the inside.
This was all decided and done long before the internet.
I eyeballed the position on the top of the hood without thought to the underside.
I cut a 10 inch diameter hole in 2 hoods, 1st one was a Javelin Hood,
and I centered the hole and LEARNED the carb is NOT CENTERED on the hood...
2nd Hood I cut a 10" hole in was an AMX Hood and it was centered on the Carb...
A Nibbler was used on both, kept the cut-out piece from both for possible future reversal...
Eyeballed the 4 mounting bolt holes from up top and got just dumb lucky...
The 2 rear holes just happened to fall at oval cut-out locations on the hood inner structure,
and the 2 front holes right near or thru an inner structure flange and rib... dumb lucky !
This made for a pretty dang gone secure scoop mounting with only 4 1/4-20 Stn Stl Btn Hd Cap Screws.
Does it look maybe kinda "tacked-on"... well yeah maybe... but I had other considerations.
Most importantly, "do your homework" before executing installation, carb center, hole location, etc... 












Edited by PHAT69AMX - Oct/24/2018 at 12:29pm
Back to Top
AMXFSTBK390 View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Oct/22/2013
Location: SF Bay Area
Status: Offline
Points: 3489
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AMXFSTBK390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/24/2018 at 1:51pm
PHAT69AMX: That is the mounting technique best suited IMO for a f'glass or plastic hood scoop. I made alterations to a 71 Pontiac T/A shaker hood for my 56 Chevy 2-dr, similar to the 55 Chevy in Amer Graff movie. It had ~20 ss small bolts using a firm rubber gasket. The mounting  similar to a 427 ac Cobra's. The bolt holes can be seen in the picture. The scoop was shaped to face forward. Yes, this scoop mounting gives it a justified appearance but being absolutely intentional adds to its purpose in design.
Questions are powerful tools...what's in your toolbox?
Back to Top
tyrodtom View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted


Joined: Sep/14/2007
Location: Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 6199
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tyrodtom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/24/2018 at 3:20pm
Originally posted by billd billd wrote:

Originally posted by jeremy0711 jeremy0711 wrote:

this could be a no brainer but.... if you were to compare a weld to a glue version and which would outlast the other.... A glue is suggested for a limited amount of time-type bond and a weld is a permanent type of bond. It comes down to.....how well do you weld?   I would weld one on. My limited welding skills would outlast a glue on version any day. No contest here, go metal!


Where do you get the "limited time" bond thing? Who says?
That "glue" is used to attach full-size body panels, for the life of the car. It's used in industry to bond things that are under more stress than a hood scoop would experience. IF it's properly done, the specs get into the tens of thousands of pounds. Will your scoop experience that?
People have a fear of such things due to the past - experiences with JB Weld, cheap adhesives and the "but wait, there's more!" advertising for cheap products. Lord products are used to "glue" the tie-down rings in semi trailers! It's used for aircraft panels.
With the adhesive bond, the adhesive seals out the processes that cause rust. Welding promotes those processes.
You heat the metal and it's a good place for rust to begin. The experienced folks around where I live who do body work and welding seem to agree on that - when you heat to weld, you may be opening a chance for corrosion where there wasn't a chance before. Maybe in Iowa we prefer to avoid rust...
The car makers approve of - and even use such adhesives. And you'd not use it on a simple hood scoop. It's on hundreds of thousands of cars right now holding on entire body panels, and used to attach patch panels on thousands of cars - with no problems. My neighbor has used it on two pickup trucks to attach large body panels under more stress than a 1 or 2 pound scoop sitting on a hood .

With the adhesives available today, I'd seriously consider the chemical bond.
I'd also strongly consider it because of the large reduction in body work needed to make it look nice.


I've worked on many cars with factory bonded on panels,   very few are held on with bonding adhesives alone.   Most have anchoring spot welds on the corners, and at intervals.
At I-car I was told not all the car markers approve total adhesive bonding of their repair panels,  some require anchor spot welds.
I've come upon too many adhesive repair failures, factory and aftermarket , to trust it totally by itself.

And the adhesives the aviation industry uses are applied and oven baked.  And very seldom is it going to be steel.  Carbon fiber bonded to aluminum, fiberglass bonded to aluminum, etc.   not room temperature cured.   Apples to oranges to compare their practices to automotive repair bonding. 


Edited by tyrodtom - Oct/24/2018 at 3:24pm
66 American SW, 66 American 2dr, 82 J10, 70 Hornet, Pound, Va.
Back to Top
ADAM12MATADOR View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Dec/03/2011
Location: New City, N.Y.
Status: Offline
Points: 518
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ADAM12MATADOR Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/24/2018 at 3:45pm
I found out a few years ago that the carb wasnt centered on my Gremlin after i cut the hole in my fiberglass hood. When using a good quality body panel adhesive for metal, you have to read the directions. Make sure that the bonding agent will work on 2 different thickness of metal, if the hood and the scoop are different gauges. They do make an adhesive to bond the fiberglass scoop to a metal hood. I would go and buy the metal scoop and bolt it to the hood. If you want to weld it on you have to be careful of the hood warping or oil canning. Then yu have to use plastic filler to flatten out the panel. That is when sh-t happens. The filler might crack from constantly opening and closing the hood and the air turbulence inside the scoop , especially at highway speeds. The scoop will literally want to lift off the hood. 
Back to Top
PHAT69AMX View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Jul/07/2007
Location: West Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 5905
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PHAT69AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/24/2018 at 6:29pm
Yes, all of us, anyone, I'm sure, is glad to find out
the Carb is NOT centered BEFORE cutting a hole
in an otherwise good RARE expensive Hood!

AMXFSTBK390 - that custom scoop for your '56 Shoebox looks really good.
Was there ever an "official" aftermarket version offered for sale
of the scoop on the Black '55 Chevy in  ?

It is my humble opinion based on the history I've read
and "dates" that the scoop on the American Graffiti '55
was the basis for the Aurora AFX HO Slotcar '55 Chevy Bodies...




Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <123>
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.03
Copyright ©2001-2019 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.250 seconds.
All content of this site Copyright © 2018 TheAMCForum unless otherwise noted, all rights reserved.
PROBLEMS LOGGING IN or REGISTERING:
If you have problems logging in or registering, then please contact a Moderator or