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AMC 401 starter problem

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jjubinsky View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jjubinsky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/10/2012 at 2:15pm
Ya dont like camoflage green? It looked worse when I got it. Thats the starter sitting on the front bumber, got it a Napa, we looked up a 70's matador for the spec. One of the cracs in the housing is right above where the starter mounts.
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tsanchez View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tsanchez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/10/2012 at 2:47pm
Love the olive drab rig!!
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72javelinPC View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72javelinPC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/10/2012 at 3:14pm
Am I correct when u say that most AMC heads if not all have the year stamped in the head toward the back underneath the valve cover? My 72 pc has it. That could be the simplest way to correctly identify the year.(if the heads are original. Someone please confirm or deny. Thanks.

   Jeremy
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69 ambassador 390 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 69 ambassador 390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/10/2012 at 4:02pm
Sorry about saying you had to pull the engine.  I didn't know you had the trans out.  Sould have read it better.  I would only weld the bell if it's a last resort.  In that case make sure you drill stop each crack and grind a furrow in the material before welding.  Don't just surface weld it or the cracks will come back.

Edited by 69 ambassador 390 - Feb/11/2012 at 11:13am
Steve Brown

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84 Grand Wagoneer

69 Cougar XR7

65 Fairlaine 500XL

79 F-350 Super Camper Special



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Vistamc View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Vistamc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/10/2012 at 4:06pm
Post a picture of the engine, under hood and under truck.
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jjubinsky View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jjubinsky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/11/2012 at 10:44am
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69 ambassador 390 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 69 ambassador 390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/11/2012 at 11:17am
After looking at the pics., I don't see the dowel pins in the large holes on either the block or the bell housing.  Do you have them?  If they are missing, that would be a huge issue.
Steve Brown

Algonac, Mi.

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69 Cougar XR7

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jjubinsky View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jjubinsky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/11/2012 at 11:33am
The bottom holes on each side? These were thru bolted when I removed the housing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FuzzFace2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/11/2012 at 12:02pm
Originally posted by jjubinsky jjubinsky wrote:

The bottom holes on each side? These were thru bolted when I removed the housing.
There should be hollow dowel pins to locate the motor & bell. Could be why the bell cracked? Could be also why the starter has issues but you need that block plate too.
Where is the oil coming fromValve cover gaskets or oil pan.
BTW I done see any tag on the front of the valve covers so check the back side to see if someone put them on wrong. Tag should be on the right front cover.
Dave ----
TSM = Technical Service Manual

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69 ambassador 390 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 69 ambassador 390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/11/2012 at 12:09pm
Yes, those MUST have the locating dowels in them.  Without those there is no way the block was aligned correctly to the trans.  This will result in starter malfunctions and almost always cracks the bell housing.  That is your problem.  Someone here will have the dowels for the block.  They go into the big holes.  Through bolting will work if the block threads are gone, but it would be better to fix the threads and use a bolt into the block.  I'm very confidant this is your problem.  I would replace the bell housing because it is now bent and won't be right.  Don't wory about being a carpenter and not a mechanic.  The guy you got the truck from wasn't a mechanic either.  You can do much better.  Just as in carpentry, measure twice and cut once.  You will have an awesome rig after you get the bugs worked out. 
Steve Brown

Algonac, Mi.

69 Ambassador sst 390

84 Grand Wagoneer

69 Cougar XR7

65 Fairlaine 500XL

79 F-350 Super Camper Special



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