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AMC 401 starter problem

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jjubinsky View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jjubinsky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/09/2012 at 6:33pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jjubinsky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/09/2012 at 7:17pm
just finished cleaning the grease off the bellhousing and found two cracks. Did not find any markings. numbers on flywheel are  A225      3197219     W-2    Looked for tag on engine but no luck. Only thing I see is firing order.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 69 ambassador 390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/09/2012 at 7:23pm
You don't have a stock starter for a 401.  No 401 came with a starter that has the solenoid attached to it.  Only later Jeeps had that style and they did indeed have a different flywheel.  No 401s came in the later jeeps with gear reduction or permanant magnet starters.  If you have a later 1980s or early 90s starter then that is your problem.  You cannot use the later flywheel because they won't work with your 401.  You need an early style starter with no solenoid on it or a aftermarket mini starter actually made wor your engine.
 
     Also, after reading your post I see other possabilities.  Don't rely on NAPA to get you the right parts.  They don't spend the time to read the notes on the screen.  Not just NAPA but all parts places.  No trainning done anymore.  The reason there are two different diameters is that one is for the Auto tranny and one is for the manual.  The manual is shrunk into place on the flywheel and ends up a bit larger after install.  The auto is welded to the flexplate and remains the same size after install.  If they read the notes they would see that the two numbers are for different applications.  And they are wrong about the starters if there is a solenoid on them.  The correct starter is an Autolite or motorcraft and is a reaction type that uses no solenoid to engage the Bendix.  The solenoid is mounted on the fender.


Edited by 69 ambassador 390 - Feb/09/2012 at 7:34pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jjubinsky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/09/2012 at 8:01pm
My bad, Im a carpenter, not a mechanic. I was incorrect in stating the solenoid is on the starter. It is on the fender well. Is the smaller diameter for the manual?  Thinking out loud, worn ring gear + cracked bellhousing = starter gear not engaging with ring gear? Also I do not have the block plate. Makes sense to me but the only way I can see to find out is put new parts on and try it. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 69 ambassador 390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/09/2012 at 10:36pm
The slightly smaller one is most likely for a manual.  The cracked bell housing could be an issue as well as the lack of a block plate.  The plate is the register for locating the starter.  I'm sorry to say it but the engine needs to come out and have the block plate installed.  Note that there are two styles.  One is for an auto that has an inspection plate in it and the other is for a manual that does not.  You should be able to use either type. maybe somone on here knows for sure.  Can you post pics of the cracks?  That will help tell us what caused them.  It could be a bad engine mount or someone used solid mounts at all three places.  If running solid motor mounts, you can't run a solid trans mount.  May also have happened during installation by forcing things together with the bolts.  The block plate is also known as a shim plate and allows some movement for expansion and contraction between the engine and trans.  Without it they get stuck and that can break things.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carnuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/10/2012 at 1:18am
It sounds almost like someone put a Ford 460 starter on there.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jjubinsky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/10/2012 at 11:02am
Why do I have to remove engine for block plate if I already have trans and bellhousing out? Pics of cracks dont really show, the cracks are small. Here is the bellhousing. Both motor and tranny have rubber mounts but who knows what kind of abuse truck has been thru.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jcisworthy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/10/2012 at 12:15pm
You can install it with the trans out. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jjubinsky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/10/2012 at 1:04pm
Thought so. Now Im looking for a bellhousing and block plate. Or should I weld the bellhousing I have? Resources for finding used parts? I found a housing on e-bay $130 + shipping. Fair $ ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carnuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/10/2012 at 1:55pm

 Just a FYI for future reference. That block plate (sometimes known as a splash guard) also braces the edges of the bell so there isn't a sharp surface to twist against, avoiding bell cracks (usually around the starter) 

Did you ever get a pic of the starter? Back when I worked at CSK, some of the "Jeep" starters were swapped out with Ford ones (one for a 351M is very close, but the nose isn't quite long enough)


Except the color, nice looking rig



Edited by carnuck - Feb/10/2012 at 2:00pm
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