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AMC 401 First Startup Issues

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348AMX View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 348AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/09/2014 at 12:10pm
Originally posted by 71Javelin 71Javelin wrote:

What surprises me most about that is that the manufacturer is getting away with it.. There wasn't any variation from factory in terms of keying orientation for the dampener was there?


It's HIGHLY unlikely that its the dampner, easy to check anyway when you are doing the TDC compression stroke verification with the distributor, you can check that, the distributor gear and the cylinder# 1 timming all at once. Also turn the engine over by hand when checking for TDC not with the remote starte, a wratchet with an extension is all you need it will be easy to turn with the plugs out....either use a length of pipe on the handle of the wratchet to be able to reach it and hold your thumb over the plug hole or have a helper turn the wratchet while you feel for the compression.
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Boris Badanov View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boris Badanov Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/09/2014 at 7:08pm
How are you inspecting the timing marks on the dampener?
if you are checking for TDC with an indicator and using a degree wheel
then another question begs.
 
Are your pistons stock or aftermarket?
 
AMC uses a .062 pin offset, using a piston with no offset
or installed backwards will have an effect on timing as well.
 
Boris


Edited by Boris Badanov - Apr/10/2014 at 11:57am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Peter D Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/13/2014 at 1:41pm
Old school rule, if it backfires out the exhaust it's ignition / electric, if out the carb. its timing valve or cam. there are exceptions but I would start with timing
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 71JAVVY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/01/2014 at 1:52pm
Sorry this took so long but here's an update

I just got the thing fired and idling. After a ton of trouble shooting, it turns out I was getting inconsistent power from my solenoid used for my coil.  I decided to check spark again and it just wasn't there like it was the first couple of times. It threw me for a loop. Also the cap full of gas to prime it worked great.

I have since swapped the faulty solenoid it for a nice high quality continuous load solenoid that seems to be doing the job very well.

Had it idling for a while, and starting tuning the carb a bit, when all of a sudden I had a rocker arm snap. If I remember correctly it was the intake on my #7 cylinder? Wondering if I have a stuck or bent valve. Going to inspect next time I go to the shop.

What's the best way to hold the valve up while I pull the spring? Is the #7 piston at TDC enough or should I use air pressure as well? And are there any techniques you guys would recommend to try and unstick the valve without pulling the head? Hoping to try the easy solutions first.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boris Badanov Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/01/2014 at 2:09pm
If you are using aftermarket stock type replacements this is a common problem.
 
AMC factory replacements or quality roller rockers are the only way to go.
 
I personaly have never seen an after market stamped steel rocker worth a hoot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 71JAVVY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/01/2014 at 3:53pm
I'm actually using COMP 17044-1 roller rockers. The break was right across the end of the rocker covering the pushrod. Pushrod did not bend at all, but these are aluminum rockers so I'm hoping it a manufacturing defect. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boris Badanov Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/01/2014 at 4:46pm
Cast Aluminum i believe.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 71JAVVY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/01/2014 at 5:18pm
You're correct.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orchuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/01/2014 at 7:03pm
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/ccrp_0801_302_valve_springs/
 
This article suggests compressed air or a length of nylon rope to keep the valve "Up".
1969 Javelin SST, BBO, 390, Air, Auto PS/PB, Tilt, GoPac
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebel Machine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/01/2014 at 7:27pm
Originally posted by 71Javelin 71Javelin wrote:

I checked my timing by waiting for my intake valve to close and verifying that the piston then moved upward and stopped moving upward when I hit my TDC mark. I've just been setting the distributor at the TDC after the intake valve closed. Is that all safe to assume I'm okay timing wise.



Which intake valve? Should be cylinder #1, front driver's side.

I looked at your video. Clearly there's a cylinder firing with an intake hanging open.

How did you adjust the valvetrain?

-Steve-



Edited by Rebel Machine - Sep/01/2014 at 7:33pm
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