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AMC 401 engine problem

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shootist View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shootist Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/25/2017 at 3:42pm
Oh, bent or mismatched length pushrods could have the same undesirable effect as a wiped cam but I didn't mention that since it is less likely to be the case here.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Vweberdk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/25/2017 at 4:31pm
Okay - i'll need to check the lift on my cam lobes. I dont own a dial indicator so i quess that on my shopping list tomorrow. Can i get a precise meassurement on the rocker arm or do i need to pull of my intake manifold to do this ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 304-dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/25/2017 at 4:44pm
I suggest before you measure cam lift to roll all the push rods on a flat surface to make sure they are good, since having used them once again. Any wobble is not good.

Yes there is a procedure to check lobe lift, but I have only seen it done with solids installed, or can be done with unfilled hydraulic lifters. I think someone here has posted a bit of info on another thread.

Will look into it.
71 Javelin SST body
390 69 crank, 70 block & heads
NASCAR SB2 rods & pistons
78 Jeep TH400 w/ 2.76 Low
50/50 Ford-AMC Suspension
79 F150 rear & 8.8 axles
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shootist Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/25/2017 at 6:46pm
If it is as bad as your compression test indicates it should be pretty obvious. I would unload the lifters and measure pushrod movement from high to low. Without load the lifters should be fully extended and give you a pretty accurate read on the lobe condition. If they were solid lifters you could check from the rocker with a dial gauge but since they are hydraulic lifters they will compress a good bit under load without the motor running and skew your readings too much to be effective.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shootist Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/25/2017 at 6:47pm
Definitely check for bent pushrods too. a small bend will cause a large difference in valve travel.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rondo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/25/2017 at 8:46pm
Well, the fact that your exhaust is louder leads me to believe you have the timing way retarded. Are you SURE the engine was on TDC on the compression stroke when you installed the distributer?(both valves are closed at this point)
Just start eliminating potential issues.
Pull your distributer out-
pull out number one plug-
seal your finger over the spark plug hole-
crank over engine with starter-
when air blows past your finger you are on the compression stroke.
line up timing mark to 0 to find TDC.
install the distributer with the rotor pointed to what ever plug wire goes to the number one cylinder.
start the car.
set timing with timing light.
I'm sorry to say, if that does not fix your problem, you should remove the timing cover and check the timing marks-was the engine on the compression stroke when the timing chain was installed?
Since you will have to remove the harmonic balancer to get at the timing cover, you can check to make sure the Woodriff key is there to index the timing marks with the crankshaft. cant imagine that was left out, but who knows? Check your oil carefully- if you see metal particles in it, your new cam may have failed during break-in.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rondo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/25/2017 at 9:12pm
one more thing -do a LEAKDOWN test, not a compression test. this will tell if your valves are being held open by the push rods, as you will here air coming out your carb or exhaust pipe if the valves are the problem. if the valves ARE leaking, loosen both rockers all the way-if that stops the air leak, it is the pushrod/valve length that is the problem. If that does not stop the air leak, you have an issue with the valve job, but that is pretty unlikely, unless you used a beginner machine shop.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rondo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/25/2017 at 9:34pm
This issue reminds me of the time I did the same sort of thing 35 years ago- new valve job, etc.-the heads would never torque down evenly on that engine after that-the sides along the exhaust manifolds would NOT crush-it was as if there was a prob with the dowel pins, but there wasn't...I was having a hard time sealing the manifold, the heads were so...angled. I never found out why, but fixed it by torqueing the BOTTOM row of head bolts FIRST-from middle to outer-to 30 lbs. or so. then do the regular torque pattern after that. My point is-if you end up removing the heads, check the head gaskets for proper "crush".



Edited by rondo - Apr/25/2017 at 9:40pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Vweberdk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/26/2017 at 12:37am
Hi rondo.

I did install the distributor (new Msd) as you describe, and as far og my knowledge that would not cause the Strange readings that i get from the engine. As I wrote, we also did a leakdown test with the valves closed, witch indicated a leak between 10-15% (cold). As for the head torgue - we also had the head disassembly from the engineblock twice, and there were no signs of an uneven torgue on the gasket (installed new gasket Both times)
Im going to check my push rod today. Pulling of my timinggear houseing and i quess also my intakemanifold. Maybe i should consider buying Stocks in a gasketmanufactor Company :-D
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Vweberdk Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/26/2017 at 8:43am
Checked my push rods - no wobble. Seems straight. Also Took the timinggear houseing of today. Pulled the harmonic balancer off at TDC position i combustion stroke. Took a picture of my timing gear Mount, but dont know how to upload them here, but the 0 dots on both sprokets were totally aligned. Took off my intake manifold - Both hyd lifters and cam looks fine. Still need to measure lobe lift.
Very confused at this moment...

Edited by Vweberdk - Apr/26/2017 at 11:07am
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