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AMC 360 Limited RPM?

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Lyle View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lyle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/22/2018 at 8:02am
There is more information required to answer you question.
What is your torque converter stall and flash points?
Your transmission and final gear ratio?
The whole combination has to be looked at to determine your shift rpm's and what you may or may not want to change.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 73Gremlin401 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/22/2018 at 8:51am
FWIW, I'm thinking the 3" exhaust is what's killing the output.  motor needs some back pressure, and a 3" setup, especially if it is dualled, is giving the motor nothing to scavenge with. the rest of what's been described in the engine build up makes sense, and should make a very decent runner.



Edited by 73Gremlin401 - Jan/22/2018 at 10:10am
73 Gremlin 401/5-spd.
77 Matador Wagon 360/727.
81 Jeep J10 LWB 360/4-spd
83 Concord DL 4-dr 258/auto

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dbomb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/22/2018 at 9:45am
If you're running too much timing advance it won't want to rev. It will fight itself on top before it breaks the pistons or lifts a head   If you've got loud exhaust you might not hear it or know it then boom
rebuiling 73 amx need parts
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ruphianh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/22/2018 at 11:14am
Originally posted by FSJunkie FSJunkie wrote:

To the original topic:

This engine of yours is not making much different power than a stock engine or at much different RPM. As it sits in the car, it makes 230-260 horsepower at around 4500 RPM if it is tuned perfectly. You will feel power decrease after that, but will still want to rev past 4500 before you upshift to get the best acceleration.

With the horsepower curve peak at 4500 RPM, you will want to shift around 5000 RPM for optimal acceleration because the engine speed will drop to 4000 RPM or so after the shift is complete. That way, you keep the engine speed sweeping through the power peak as you accelerate. Drag racing 101. 

...also because operation above 5000 RPM is questionable unless your valve train was upgraded and your rotating assembly balanced. Some guys here have engines with power peaks around 6000 RPM so they are shifting around 7000 RPM. They have upgraded their engines mechanically to handle that RPM. Whatever RPM your power peak is at is pretty useless if your engine explodes trying to use it. 

This describes what I'm feeling, about 230-260HP and 4500 is about where its topping off. T.

COMP CAMS makes a cam called XE256H that might have been a better choice when I had the engine built. 

This is in a CJ5 Jeep, so the power down low, torque, idle is great with the current cam when off roading, I just wish it could turn a bit more power everywhere, especially up top.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greyhounds_AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/22/2018 at 12:31pm
I have the Edelbrock cam in my 390 AMX, and it will rev to 5500 rpm pretty decently. On an inertia dyno it spins up pretty quickly:



That's with a Holley 600, cast iron intake, free flows, and 2-1/4" exhaust. I'd suspect that your TB is sized for off road work and not higher rpm use and probably a little small then.
1968 AMX 390 w/T5
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ruphianh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/22/2018 at 12:52pm
Originally posted by Greyhounds_AMX Greyhounds_AMX wrote:

I have the Edelbrock cam in my 390 AMX, and it will rev to 5500 rpm pretty decently. On an inertia dyno it spins up pretty quickly:



That's with a Holley 600, cast iron intake, free flows, and 2-1/4" exhaust. I'd suspect that your TB is sized for off road work and not higher rpm use and probably a little small then.

Do have the performer plus or performer RPM cam? Also, the TBI is 500CFM I believe and the same TBI used in the late 80s early 90s Chevy 350s. I had a 600CFM Edelbrock before the TBI, and the TBI runs better up top too hands down.


Edited by ruphianh - Jan/22/2018 at 1:26pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greyhounds_AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/22/2018 at 12:53pm
Ok, it looks like the Howell EFI for Jeep engines use a GM 305/350 TBI unit. Per the Harris Performance website:

"The stock 305 and 350 TBI unit has 2 (1 11/16″) bores which flow 450 cfm of air. Up to 230hp engines that air flow is fine.  "
1968 AMX 390 w/T5
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ruphianh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/22/2018 at 1:48pm
Interesting. They have a holly 670 TBI upgrade, maybe i should look into that? 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Greyhounds_AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/22/2018 at 3:47pm
That might be a worthwhile upgrade for you. If you still have the Edelbrock carb I suppose you could pop that back on there and see if there's any improvement, but some of those also have alarmingly low flow capacities. You can check via the model number of course.
1968 AMX 390 w/T5
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/22/2018 at 4:57pm
Maybe try an open spacer under the TBI if you don't already have one, might give you a bit more up top. XE256H is still a pretty small cam in my books if you want something to rev, probably the ticket for 4 wheeling and towing though.

Might want to look at something like the Holley Sniper if you are upgrading the injection side of things but a fair few dollars there.
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