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Amc 360 assembly tips

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Buzzman72 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Buzzman72 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/14/2019 at 5:57am
I agree with Bill on the hot tank NOT being enough for cleaning the block. Dad and grand-dad had a "steam jenny" that used kerosene-heated high-pressure steam and hot water to clean the block. It did a much better job than the local machine shop's hot tank did after "Jenny" died. Of course Dad and granddad did a lot of hand work cleaning engine parts...even if most of the engines they built went into farm tractors. Steam jenny, putty knife and wire brush were the main "implements of destruction."
 
Dad used to cuss the machine shop [only to us who worked with him, because he still needed their machine work] because they obviously did NO hand work after the hot tank.
 
"Cleanliness is not next to godliness - it IS godliness in engine and transmission building."
 
We all need to put this on a sign in our garage/shop.
Buzzman72...void where prohibited, your mileage may vary, objects in mirror may be closer than they appear, and alcohol may intensify any side effects.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Amc wannabe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/14/2019 at 6:17am
lots of great info so far, I have a quick question on technical manuals. I have one for 1970(my javelins year) but I am building a 360 from an 80s Wagoneer. Is there anything I could get myself into trouble with that changed in that timeframe?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/14/2019 at 6:45am
1970 to 1980's 360 your not going to find much difference on engine internals except if you start mixing and matching parts. Easiest to keep to the whole of the 80's engine for the build.
Accessory things like water pumps, pulleys, throttle and alternator brackets changed. You may have to do a little hunting to get those pieces to fit and align unless everything is from the 80's engine.
The Jeep throttle bracket will not fit as well as the Javelin bracket of that year.
The ignition and charging system changed, but there are lots of posts on using original to aftermarket and all variations in between.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote green70AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/14/2019 at 7:09am
what is the e-mail for getting a copy of BJ Builds an AMC
green70AMX
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sweatlock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/14/2019 at 8:06am
This was originally posted by Farna back in 2013:

To order Paypal BJ $10 and include what email address to send to. Paypal payment to brismikki@verizon.net

Brian's e-mail is bjsane@hotmail.com if you have any questions (he can be reached at the Paypal e-mail above as well).”

I sent an email and was able to get a copy and print it out. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote White70JavelinSST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/14/2019 at 12:24pm
In an earlier post it was mentioned that brake Cleaner is your friend.

My response is only when used in a very well ventilated area and never ever ever burn it.

Brake Cleaner is a crippler/killer if mis-handled.

Be careful
70 Javelin SST, second owner, purchased 1972
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/14/2019 at 6:57pm
Originally posted by White70JavelinSST White70JavelinSST wrote:

In an earlier post it was mentioned that brake Cleaner is your friend.

My response is only when used in a very well ventilated area and never ever ever burn it.

Brake Cleaner is a crippler/killer if mis-handled.

Be careful


Thank you for that. I used a lot of soap and water myself, brake cleaner only in certain places for certain things. The books on the equipment I have says "soap and water" but I've done both. 

Good to see folks like you on the ball.......... be safe. Live to drive and enjoy it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/14/2019 at 6:58pm
Originally posted by Buzzman72 Buzzman72 wrote:

I agree with Bill on the hot tank NOT being enough for cleaning the block. Dad and grand-dad had a "steam jenny" that used kerosene-heated high-pressure steam and hot water to clean the block. It did a much better job than the local machine shop's hot tank did after "Jenny" died. Of course Dad and granddad did a lot of hand work cleaning engine parts...even if most of the engines they built went into farm tractors. Steam jenny, putty knife and wire brush were the main "implements of destruction."
 
Dad used to cuss the machine shop [only to us who worked with him, because he still needed their machine work] because they obviously did NO hand work after the hot tank.
 
"Cleanliness is not next to godliness - it IS godliness in engine and transmission building."
 
We all need to put this on a sign in our garage/shop.


Excellent - I have used my gas powered pressure washer to clean things out, too. Soap and water is a good tool - even the pros and manuals I have for my boring bar and other tools suggest that. 
Nice post.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AMXFSTBK390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/14/2019 at 8:15pm
This is an excellent thread! I have torn down and rebuilt three Chevy V8 engines.  AMC engines I found out are a bit different, especially when it comes to the timing cover. I recently completed a complete AMC 390 build from a bare block I got from Galvin's. Without the amc forum member's help, the TSM, and BJ's book, I would still be scratching my head on how to reassemble the engine. Acquire all the literature you can. There is not much available in hard copy.  
The most powerful tool is the question.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dbomb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun/15/2019 at 3:09am
braze a 3/8 but to the oil pickup to be sure it’s clearanced from the bottom of the pan . Make sure oil galleries are drilled all the way on rear mains.  Sometimes restrictive pushrods can help keep oil in the pan and keep from flooding top end  you can also resize and reclock cam bearings to help control oil   Use new had rod bolts if you can even if you need to have rods resized ESPescially if your gonna whomp on it  6 quartz of oil is best   Inspect timing gear oil holes as some are not drilled correctly and will starve distributor gear in short history   Use plastiguage to check oil clearances  upon assembly of crank spin crank after torquing each main or rod don’t torque them all at once   Be careful torquing the heads they can crack from using impact gun don’t forget the heat shield PCv shield under intake manifold even if using valley pan  check correct lifter preload regardless of what cam  rocker pushrod setup you choose before you install intake manifold  try to use new timing cover long studs. If you can  sorry I ramble
rebuiling 73 amx need parts
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