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Alignment specs

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pjsst View Drop Down
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    Posted: Aug/21/2019 at 10:12pm
Any one know the specs for alignment on 72 javelin 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/22/2019 at 6:47am
Specs will be the same for a 72.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/22/2019 at 10:45pm
be aware that most of the old-car alignment specs were for old crappy bias ply tires and crowned roads. you can tell the latter where the left and right wheels have different camber and caster settings! even if you plan on driving only old route 66 you want the same setting both sides today.

nearly all AMC and Ramblers in 2019 can be set more or less the same:

0 to as much [positive] caster as can be dialed in without being crazy. caster is what makes the steering wheel return to center when drivign down the road. adjust to feel. 1 degree is about all you can get out of most Ramblers anyway. (caster is what shopping cart wheels ahve a lot of).

0 to 2 degrees negative camber. 0 is fine for a stock car. more improves/lessens understeer in turns (complex, but rough assessment). 2 degrees negative is "a lot". harmless.  positive camber values are "bad". positive camber is what old farming tractors have.  import-scene kids like to dial in ridiculous amounts of negative camber in cuz they think it looks cool (or something), the wheels splaying out like the car got sat on.


toe (in) "should be" 1/32" to 1/8". 1/16" is a good compromise for "most conditions" and works fine with moderate wear. i run my very precise roadster at 1/32", where it enhances steering feel, getting close to "twitchy" but isn't. i let nothing get worn on that car. on my '68 American, which i'll hopefully keep in top shape but will do more normal wear replacement schedule, i'll run closer to 1/8".


0 to +1 degree caster
0 to -2 degree camber
3/32" toe in

can't hardly go wrong.


1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farna Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/23/2019 at 6:15am
You can get as much as 3 degrees caster on trunnion cars. I run 3 degrees on mine. Told one shop I wanted as much caster as they could get. One side would go 3 degrees, the other 3.5, and that's how they set it. Well, it's more or less what I told them, but I assumed anyone but an idiot, and especially a decent alignment tech, would know both sides need to be the same, right? Yes, it pulled, and yes, they fixed it.
Frank Swygert
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/23/2019 at 1:03pm
Originally posted by farna farna wrote:

...but I assumed anyone but an idiot, and especially a decent alignment tech, would know both sides need to be the same, right? Yes, it pulled, and yes, they fixed it.


lol, careful what you ask for!

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Heavy 488 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/23/2019 at 1:11pm
TThey were within the manufacturers 1 degree tolerance.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/23/2019 at 1:39pm
Many of our roads are older and have plenty of crown - I usually end up taking cars back to the shop to have them compensate. And be aware - their specs may be based off of mistakes or things AMC later changed. 
Good example is Eagle - compare 1981 and the original 82 specs to the 82 TSM SUPPLIMENT and 83 specs - they (AMC) changed them but the COMPUTERS and Mitchell and Chilton still have the OLD specs. I have to fuss with the people every time to ignore their stupid computer and go with the specs I give them . Then also on Eagle you MUST point the tie rod sleeve clamps a specific way - I gave them the bloody page and marked it in red. When leaving the last shop I turned from their parking lot into the close lane of the 4 lane, with a truck coming in the other lane - and guess what - the steering LOCKED on me because those idiots didn't pay attention or read what I gave them and verbally told them.
Tie rod clamp hit the cross member, went over the edge and hung there stuck on the cross member unable to move back. I was HOT.

Many shops "think they know better" but all they can do is follow a computer - with incorrect specs and ignore the tie rod sleeve clamp position. Nearly got killed because I trusted someone else with alignment.
No more. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/23/2019 at 9:09pm
Originally posted by billd billd wrote:

Many of our roads are older and have plenty of crown - I usually end up taking cars back to the shop to have them compensate.

i've given up on trying to get alignments in shops. i i bought the Longacre tool and made my own toe tools. "its not inna compootah" is what i usually get. slightly tedious, but i get the results i want.

Quote Then also on Eagle you MUST point the tie rod sleeve clamps a specific way - I gave them the bloody page and marked it in red. When leaving the last shop I turned from their parking lot into the close lane of the 4 lane, with a truck coming in the other lane - and guess what - the steering LOCKED on me because those idiots didn't pay attention or read what I gave them and verbally told them.
Tie rod clamp hit the cross member, went over the edge and hung there stuck on the cross member unable to move back. I was HOT.


wow, that's really bad. you think they'd check their work. don't they road-test after taking it off the rack? (in this case that might have been bad...)

1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com

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