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Air compressor location

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xtm10 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote xtm10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/28/2009 at 8:24am
mine is a craftsman, 5hp 30 gal , laydown type with wheels and a handle, i was thinking of using some heavy duty rubber mats to put it on, and secure it down or box the wheels so it won't move, it's about 15 yrs old but has not been used very much and has always been well maintained.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jkarisny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/28/2009 at 8:39am
xtm10's compressor is much smaller and lighter than billd's compressor, I dont think he has to worry about it crashing through the floor, unless his floor is made from balsa wood.Hammer Head
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/28/2009 at 9:35am
Originally posted by 6768rogues 6768rogues wrote:

I would be concerned about the weight of the compressor and vibrations. If you do it, build a strong platform that is braced well and will not pull or push on a wall or the roof, and make your connections by through bolting. It would ruin your day if nails vibrated loose and the compressor landed on something important. Weight and vibrations would make me find another location. The mass of the platform has a lot to do with the transmission of vibrations. If you could install an elevated concrete pad, you could make it work.
 
Do you see the wood mine is on now? The PO had it on the ceiling of his room in his shop - on that SAME wood. No platform.
VERY little vibration.  That thing is pretty solid, holding onto the wood while it runs you can barely feel it.
The PO had it up there, lifted it down with his forklift, and put up a much bigger, heavier 2-stage compressor in the same place.
The wood it's on is the wood it was shipped on. He never removed it, and it sure works fine for me! Keeps it off the concrete and the wood absorbs a lot of shock since it's pretty soft compared to the vibrations you might have if the metal tank was on the floor.
(ringshank nails or bolts...........)
It's one reason my antique engines mostly sit on wood - the wood softens vibrations and absorbs shock where metal to metal, or metal directly on concrete is not good.
Even our old A/C compressor unit was bolted to wood then the wood screwed to the concrete pad. Really made it a lot quieter. The new A/C unit sits on some sort of a plastic/fiberglass pad.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote xtm10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Aug/28/2009 at 10:04am

thats the kind of thing i'm talking about to absorb any vibration, some sort of plastic/rubber/fiberglass/composit pad that will keep it from making a lot of noise,and vibrating, my buddy and his father do central A/C installations, so i'm gonna hit thm up for some ideas, and product that might work for my application.

 I would like to thank everyone for responding to my post, all the info has given me a lot of ideas, on how to mount my compressor. keep them coming ! !
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote xtm10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/12/2011 at 2:01pm

Ok, So after all this time I still haven't set up the air comp. but I am considering a new location. I am putting up a 10x30 steel shed up in my back yard. I have a 60a line that will be going to it for lights,and I was thinking of setting up the compressor out there and run an air line to my 22x34 garage. I was thinking about having the on/off switch in the garage so I can turn it off when needed. I was also thinking of raising it up off the floor and plumbing a line from the bottom of the comp. tank to a smaller portable type tank below it. I am considering this set up because I am more then likely not going to drain the air tank as often as I should. I figure if the moisture accumulation in the smaller (cheaper) tank causes failure, it could be easily replaced and be inexpensive.

so does it sound like my idea would work ? or is it over the top and over kill ? ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mstrcrftr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/12/2011 at 2:08pm
dont forget that compressors need regular maintenance.  oil changes, belt tightening and such.  so whatever you do make it so that you can get at it easily to service it. as you are in NY i suggest that the room you place it in be heated as well.  water in the system will freeze and you dont even wanna know what happens to a compressor when that arises...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FuzzFace2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/12/2011 at 5:06pm
I dont think I would do the shed and pipe it to the main building as said you will get water in the line and it will freeze. When I had a shop with my dad the compressor was out side the main building in a wood shed that shared 1 wall with the building so was not too warm in the winter. Be cause we did body work the tank was drained every few days. They do make auto bleeds for tanks you could get.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote monasmarlin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/12/2011 at 7:12pm
In my old garage I put my air compressor in the upstairs. I chocked the wheels and ran a wire from a wall switch to a plug-in for the compressor to turn it on/off when needed. 2 things I discovered after the 1st year-- even though I placed it near the soffit and the garage had roof vents the area got to hot in the summer and it would overheat and trip the motor out.  2nd, during the winter, being in an unheated area the air compressor would just slowly turn over because of the oil getting thick. Any thing below zero outside, forget using it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/12/2011 at 9:28pm
In one shop I worked the boss at one time had the compressor in another building across the alley - yeah, frozen lines (and other issues)
On my compressor, I ran a short nipple down, then a length of pipe, then a ball valve. Water will accumulate in the pipe instead of the tank. I might use a larger pipe to hold more water as I know how I get with memory issues. In Iowa summers, I've run it only 2 or 3 times a day and gotten over a cup of water out after 2 days. 
The tank of my 25 year old Craftsman compressor has pin holes in the bottom......


Edited by billd - Oct/12/2011 at 9:30pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Wrambler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Oct/13/2011 at 8:52am
Mine is outside in a corner, with a roof and alternating boards inclosure so you can't see it , but it gets plenty of air flow. It is an 1987 (yes not a typo) Sears 5hp with a 20 gallon tank. I can turn it on any time at any temp and it never gives me a moments problem, none and it has been there for about 20 years now! I have a 3/8" brass pipe in the drain that is about 18"s long and most of the moisture flows into it, then I drain it with a ball valve. Hardline is 3/8" pipe to 12" long pipe with a drain drop at one end of the Compressor.  Inside the building it switches up to 1.5" pipe goes straight up to the ceiling with another ball valve drop for moisture collection It travels at about 8' high 28 ' through the parking garage, then goes into a crawl space and yet another pipe drop with ball valve! Then it goes 18' into my shop and, yes you guessed it ANOTHER drop and ball valve.

With the large pipe radiating off any heat traveling with the compressed air, I get water at the 1st 3 drops. Two drop came out in the shop one time.

The 1.5" pipe is way overkill, but it was FREE and never used to carry liquids or even air. I did the math and it was the same cost to buy a threading kit as to buy all 3/4 pipe, so I bought the threading kit and went to town.

The key is to get the pipe to go high with as many drops and ball valves as you think is necessary.
If you have two stores you can go clear to the top of the second story in a U and bring it back down. Leaving 1-2' "drops at the bottom of both legs. By the time the air goes that high and drops most of the moisture will condense and fall out of the air stream dropping into the trap lengths of pipe.

My neighbor built a 5'X5' shed freestanding for his upright no heat and never had an issue. It is about 10' from his garage.

You can do something as simple as a flood or reflected regular bulb aimed at the compressor to keep it just a touch warmer if you are worried about freezups. Can be on a timer or I think you can get temp switches to turn it on when it is below freezing.

Noisy compressor in the shop is not my cup of tea at all.
I just had a hearing test and My hearing is still really good for a 50 year old, I'd like to keep it that way. I wear ear protection when doing most anything with power tools, mowing, weed eating etc;


Edited by Wrambler - Oct/13/2011 at 8:54am
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