Adding Power Steering

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   Ron, you have an American, correct? It's possible to use a late model GM power steering box in the big cars, but not the 58-63 Americans. To use one in a big car requires a bit of modifying, including replacing the steering column or carefully cutting the old steering shaft to length and adding a joint between the shaft and steering box. No welding -- Speedwaymotors and other hot rod shops have joints that use set screws and flats on the side of the shaft (would have to be ground on the Rambler shaft) that work fine., so welding is optional. If not welding a bit of Loc-Tite in the joint and on the set screw would be a good idea.

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farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19692	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Jun/21/2015 at 8:52am
	Ron, you have an American, correct? It's possible to use a late model GM power steering box in the big cars, but not the 58-63 Americans. To use one in a big car requires a bit of modifying, including replacing the steering column or carefully cutting the old steering shaft to length and adding a joint between the shaft and steering box. No welding -- Speedwaymotors and other hot rod shops have joints that use set screws and flats on the side of the shaft (would have to be ground on the Rambler shaft) that work fine., so welding is optional. If not welding a bit of Loc-Tite in the joint and on the set screw would be a good idea.
	Frank Swygert

RonFrancis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List AMC Apprentice Joined: Nov/30/2014 Location: Coatesville, PA Status: Offline Points: 231	Post Options Post Reply Quote RonFrancis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Sep/18/2015 at 7:27pm
	The slave cylinders that I bought from eBay came today. I have a complete cylinder and a new one in pieces. I doubt everything is there looking at the TSM. I bought a NOS pump, have loads of photos from a PS equipped car and now I'm getting anxious. I have to get he new engine in first so the can measure for brackets I'll have to make. The pump brackets are pretty easy for a OHV. I'd like to know the taper measurements for the tie rod ends so I can look for some newer model versions that will work. I want a better chance if finding replacements in the future. I see the hoses are available NORS and I have a few brackets to make for the hose supports, etc. The worst is a cast bracket on the frame that holds the end of the piston. I can make it but it would be pricey with a lot of spacer pieces that would have to be hand made. Are you aware of anyone who can rebuild the slave cylinder? Seals, etc? As usual, Thanks for your input Ron
	*Ron Francis*

farna Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Supporter of TheAMCForum Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19692	Post Options Post Reply Quote farna Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: Sep/19/2015 at 6:54am
	There are two common tapers for tie rod ends -- old and new. I seem to recall that the old has less taper than the new, I don't know the cut-off point, but my 63 Classic still used the "old", and 70s cars used the "new". Did some research.... looks like the "new" version is 10 degree taper, 71+ (60-66 Chrysler also), "old" is a 7 degree taper. To use a "new" tie rod end in an "old" hole in a drag link get a reamer and re-size the hole. You'd need to make an insert to use an "old" tie rod end with a "new" hole. This isn't universal. It seems that GMC trucks used the 7 degree taper for ball joints a lot longer, and strut GM cars used the 7 degree instead of 10 degree. But those are the two common tapers for ball joints and tie rod ends. Speedway Motors sells reamers, and they have weld on bungs with the tapers already drilled.
	Frank Swygert