The soeedo housing has the hole offset from center. The housing rotates depending on the gear used. Count the teeth on the gear you will use, and find the marking on the housing that matches the tooth count. Align the marking on the speedo housing that matches the speedo gear count with the mark on the tailhousing.

Somehow I never took any pictures of this transmission done, so I will end with a picture of some special tools. The one on the right is made to remove the manual lever seal in the car with out damage to anything. The one on the left is a driver to install the seal.

The springs at right are not used in a lot of applications. The new manual valve helps prevent converter drain back and has provisions for cooler flow with the transmission in park.

Several holes in the separater plate are enlarged when a shift kit is used.

I very rarely take the valve body totally apart, I clean it in solvent and check the movement of valves with a pick. The manual valve and pressure regulator springs are changed in the shift kit I use.

The intermediate band struts are shown installed, with the pump insalled you can adjust the band now. The apply lever is available in different ratios. If you remove it from the transmission the side of it has a number stamped into it. The higher the number the firmer hold it will provide. Mopar performance web sites are the place to look for them.

The pump bolts have a sealing washer under the head. The can cause a leak if left out.

I use special alignment studs to keep the pump gasket aligned as the pump is installed. Sometimes the pump needs a nudge with a hammer to drive it home.

The front and rear drum installation is fairly straight forward. The clutches need to align with the input of the transmission. When fully installed there will be a solid thunk, and the front drum will align with the sun shell like shown in the picture.

The front and rear drums can be set into the transmission as an assembly. Then the intermediate band can be set into place around the front drum.