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9 inch clutch pressure plate availability
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tomj View Drop Down
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    Posted: Nov/10/2016 at 10:59pm
i'm doing a T5 conversion on my '61 american, mostly figured out, but i'm not liking the pressure plate i have. it was used, had it rebuilt, but it came back with lever heights wrong. i'll send it back (i can adjust, but one of them nearly runs out of thread) but it looks quite worn.

it seems that 9" clutches are simply not available new, or commercial rebuilt. is that true? Galvin's has rebuilts but they require a core. 10" seems easier to find new.

has anyone fit an appropriate Ford clutch pressure plate to an AMC six flywheel? they look awful close. i already have to mess with T.O. bearing, fork, pivot height, etc so that's no big deal for me. 

the Ford driven disc fits for sure. i have one and tried it.



here's one: 

1993 FORD MUSTANG 2.3L 4cyl




i couldn't work out a search term to look on this forum. search terms can't contain words less than 3 characters, eg "9". tried other searches to no avail.



Edited by tomj - Nov/10/2016 at 11:02pm
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com
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ramblin64sw View Drop Down
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Should work fine. Unless the 2.3 has a 'stepped' flywheel surface. I have the S10 T5, and used the 9 inch S10 pressure plate. Had to drill and tap the flywheel for the 10.562 bolt circle.
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Originally posted by ramblin64sw ramblin64sw wrote:

Should work fine. Unless the 2.3 has a 'stepped' flywheel surface. I have the S10 T5, and used the 9 inch S10 pressure plate. Had to drill and tap the flywheel for the 10.562 bolt circle.

that's great to hear. did you measure the height of the fingers off the flywheel surface? it's a PITA to get -- you have to bolt the clutch plate to the flywheel with a disc in place under it so that the fingers are in their operating position.

do you recall what release bearing/throwout bearing you used?

i'm having a bit of trouble with my used, rebuilt AMC pressure plate, but if i can untangle it i'll use it. but i think that even if this one works out i'll be drilling a flywheel for a Ford, or this S10, clutch. 
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com
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   I used a sachs diaphragm style pressure plate. Distance from the flywheel surface to  the diaphragm fingers when installed was 1.730".  Air gap was 0.028 when fingers were depressed. 

   I ended up using the S10 throw out bearing. To accommodate this I had to use a longer clutch fork pivot. Also I knocked the worn out small diameter clutch fork buttons, and replaced them with larger diameter ones.

   Here is a schematic of what I did;
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Originally posted by ramblin64sw ramblin64sw wrote:

 Here is a schematic of what I did

thanks! will examine closely tonight. haha, i made a clutch stack drawing too. but referenced from the large bell housing face. that let me spring-clamp a straight edge across the bell and measure back to each item. otherwise same-difference of course. i'm making a web page for all this crap so i'll post mine later. but it's in pencil on graph paper.
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com
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Originally posted by ramblin64sw ramblin64sw wrote:

I ended up using the S10 throw out bearing. To accommodate this I had to use a longer clutch fork pivot. Also I knocked the worn out small diameter clutch fork buttons, and replaced them with larger diameter ones.

huh. maybe that will solve one of my problems. i have a '93 Mustang T5 T.O. bearing and it's close but no cigar...

for reference, here's a stock early 6 TO bearing with fork on it in approx. operating relationship.



here's (an identical) fork clearanced to fit the groove of the '93 Mustang TO bearing. it won't work, the fork hits the rotating bearing long before the fingers touch the inner, "fixed" part:



if you recall if the S10 part solves this problem (by having a taller collar) it would be great to hear, else i'll see if i can google up a pic.
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com
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for reference, here's a photo of the critical clutch release junk's spatial relationship, within 1/16". of course here the fork::bearing is bad, but these are the correct relationships. as it sits, if you draw a line through the fork finters at the bearing, the ball pivot seat and the outer pushrod socket, the lever is just off 90 degrees to the driveline centerline. about how it runs stock. 

(that's the volcano adapter necessary for the pre-64 american flat-butt crank manual bell housing. the clutch shaft pilot diameter was reduced to .625" to fit the stupidly tiny bushing. MDL doesn't work wit hthe 7.85" shaft so i went this route.)
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com
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i'm just gonna mod the fork to work with the inexpensive, common, simple '93 T5 bearing. this will consist of removing the current small fingers, milling the fork to accept two short .5" fingers made from drill stock. this is the least change to work. i have a funny third fork, from the 150T bell, that may accept yet another kind of bearing, but i'm not gonna mess with it.
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com
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  This is the only pic I could find of the fork and throw out bearing.  Now that I've thought about this for a little bit, I recall clamping the fork in the mill and clearing the corners slightly to allow the fork to rotate freely around the pins. It didn't take much to free it up using the larger (0.490") diameter pins.




Edited by ramblin64sw - Nov/13/2016 at 11:10pm
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ahh, thanks. yup, that would do it. but the pins on mine are tiny. if mine were .490" it would be nearly there. i have .500 drill rod, will make fingers from that, and either clip the corner, or mill a U or hole to offset the pins towards the bearing. same diff.

the S10 bearings i found on the intertubes, the ID was too small, 1.375" instead of 1.435" that my T5 needs. no biggie. 

the O'Reilly website, of all places, had actual dimensions of many bearings. it seems hit or miss, part by part. the Furd and Chebby just say "gimme GM part" or "gimme Ford part" and never have to measure anything! sometimes i envy that, sometimes i sigh at the sameness of their projects. (i think for this reason i find a lot of useful detail information from Studebaker and Corvair folk; they have to adapt like we do. my friend Jason over at Jalopnik and i used to talk about starting a car club called NOTA -- None Of The Above -- for all the smaller-brand folk who do foolishness like us, and have to work from first principles.)


i'm taking notes or all this crap. it's a huge mass if tiny datums.
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5
http://www.ramblerLore.com
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