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'83 Concord DL 6cyl, didn't start

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EagleFreek View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote EagleFreek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/18/2014 at 9:36pm
Unfortunately, in the past couple of years, there has been quite a few people that have bought new solenoids and they bad right out of the box. I may have my old one that worked perfect in the shed, but I'm in Nevada and won't be home till late Saturday. I could look Sunday and if I can find it I'll send it to you. Also, if it's possible to be without the car for a couple days, I would try to find a local starter rebuilder vs. one from a parts store. I've had much better luck that way.  I have no experience with this company, but they are in Birmingham http://www.southernarmature.org/.
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uncljohn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uncljohn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/19/2014 at 2:33am
Taking the word of a tow truck driver which was not much better than a blind guess as to the potential problem does not have a whole lot of credibility and your 83 model AMC car is newer than all but two of the cars I own and I have no particuilar reason to suspect any of them are going to have a starter or solenoid problem. 
I will say this though, of the 6 cars I have operational and 5 of which are liscenced and driveable, all but one has had a replacement starter and none have ever required a replacement starter solenoid and I frankly are not concerned that any of them will ever need a starter solenoid. Now bad connections of the large battery cables due to age and corrosion?  Yup! Not that un-common.
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Gregi View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gregi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/19/2014 at 9:12am
Thank you very much, eaglefreek, but the one I ordered seems to work. Actually, it wasn't a towtruckdriver but a repair guy who came first and thought of the solenoid, and since I don't know an awful lot about cars yet, I would rather trust him than myself. I ordered the solenoid maybe too soon before I got all the response here, and now that I changed it, woody is starting still and I checked the cables and cleaned all the connectors with wd40 while I was at it. If the problem comes up one again, I'll bridge the switch first and then see what happens.
Thank you all for your help, this forum's great.
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Gregi View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gregi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/19/2014 at 9:17am
Originally posted by carnuck carnuck wrote:

I also turn the motor backwards and listen for the clunk. If the nose snap ring lets go, it will extend too far and short out.


Can you explain that, please? How do you turn back the motor? What's a nose snap ring?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carnuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/19/2014 at 10:03pm
The snap ring keeps this gear from coming off the end. I use a breaker bar with socket on the crankshaft pulley bolt to turn it backwards.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gregi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/19/2014 at 10:37pm
I don't get it. The starter motor or the whole motor? I think that's too much for me being total new to cars in general (and my English is not so good when it comes to technical stuff).
And I also don't have a place where I can really work on the car.only a parking space in front of our apartment.
But thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carnuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/20/2014 at 11:32am
The starter motor snap ring is known to break off and then the gear overextends, jamming the flywheel, yet not turning it over because the starter internal contact isn't able to close. A breaker bar on the crank can turn the whole motor. If you hear a klunk, that would be the starter drive popping back. You only need to do it if the starter locks. Other hit the starter with a hammer, but that has a likelihood of damage if you hit the wrong spot.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l7axqmrfy-o
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gregi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/20/2014 at 12:39pm
Great video :-)
When the flywheel is jammed,but the starter motor receivee power, wouldn't you hear something as it is trying to turn? Or does it simply not turn? And which one would be the spot to hit? And since the ring is broken, one would have to take the starter motor apart, to put in a new one?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote carnuck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/20/2014 at 2:01pm
The cover for the snap ring may still be there. If it is, you can replace the ring and carry on. (It's actually a circlip but people know what a snap ring is) It was so bad on my old Jeeps and Fords that I carried a starter drive kit in the glovebox (10.5:1 compression ratio in several motors) The Jeep 4.0L style starter never seems to have that problem but it won't reach the older style flywheel teeth.

As for power and no turning, when the starter drive is fully extended, there is an interrupter contact under the side cover that it opens to cut the flow. The field collapses and the drive starts to retract, but then the contacts connect again and the field re-engages the drive. I tried to find the video I made about the Ford style starters back in the '90s but it is probably on the computer drive from the one that killed it's motherboard.


Edited by carnuck - Dec/20/2014 at 2:06pm
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Gregi View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gregi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/20/2014 at 2:52pm
It happened again just now. There was a little klack when I tried to start and then nothing. I tried hitting the starter with a rubber hammer which didn't help. When I was just ready to call AAA again I put it from park into neutral. And it started at once!!!
Any ideas about that? The solenoid was still clicking and the voltage dropping when I tried in park. So I assume it is not a switch for the solenoid to switch only in par or neutral?
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