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73 Javelin won't charge until I blip the throttle |
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dsm6678
AMC Nut Joined: Jan/08/2012 Location: Mid Atlantic Status: Offline Points: 478 |
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I found this place called Karam http://alternatorstarter.com/ I e-mailed them and got a reply,
MY E-MAIL TO KARAM:
Hi I need the oem alternator for a 1973 AMC Javelin 5.9l 4bbl which is a 55amp motorolla with the "7v ac terminal" which works the electric choke. REPLY FROM KARAM:
In stock in @ $178.90 outright. Plus shipping out of Pennsylvania. Regards, Roy Karam Karam A.L. 1-888-515-2726 |
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dsm6678
AMC Nut Joined: Jan/08/2012 Location: Mid Atlantic Status: Offline Points: 478 |
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Not much of a reply other than that they have the motorola alternator I mentioned from their website in stock but does it actually have the 7 v ac terminal for the choke? In the 1973 AMC service manual it shows a motorolla alternator and it shows some can come with a 7 v ac terminal and some don't. I know if I had the 2bbl motorcraft carb that the alternator would not have the 7v ac terminal because the 2bbl does not have an electric assist choke.I am going to call Karam tomorrow and see what I can find out. Last ditch effort is to order the alternator and see if it has it but then I lose on shipping . O r maybe the ac terminal can be added since is is a motorolla alternater for this car?
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70amcpwr
AMC Addicted Joined: Feb/16/2011 Location: Moultonboro NH Status: Offline Points: 1485 |
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If you don't have a functioning A/C optioned car just use the blue w/ the white tracer shown in the wiring diagram I posted. It's faster, and a lot neater as the wire plugs in with a bullet connector and is coming from the fire wall as opposed to the front on the engine. I've never had an issue with it being 12v as all of the current electric chokes operate on 12v, as a matter of fact I question if a current production choke would operate correctly on a 7v supply.
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70amcpwr You just can't fix stupid.
SOLD 1970 BBO Javelin, wifes 73 AMX 360 4spd. Next project 1969 AMX |
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dsm6678
AMC Nut Joined: Jan/08/2012 Location: Mid Atlantic Status: Offline Points: 478 |
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My car has Air Conditioning.. The voltage that the electric choke receives is ac current from the alternator's 7 volt ac terminal. I have read if you have your multimeter set on dc volts and probe the 7v ac terminal it will read about 7 volts. I would want it hooked up that way so you only get power to the choke when the engine is actually running.
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dsm6678
AMC Nut Joined: Jan/08/2012 Location: Mid Atlantic Status: Offline Points: 478 |
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I talked to one of the owner's at Karam and I asked him if the motorolla alternator they sell for my car has the 7v ac terminal. He said "it has it"
Ordered it today let's see............
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carnuck
AMC Addicted Joined: Mar/31/2010 Location: Seattle Status: Offline Points: 3942 |
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The way AMC got the voltage to the choke only when the motor was running was to run it through a 3 pin oil pressure switch. 1 pin for the idiot light and the other 2 connect when there is oil pressure. '76? up chokes are 12 volt.
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Got an Eagle?
http://forums.amceaglesden.com |
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vinny
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Jan/05/2012 Location: Calgary Status: Offline Points: 2837 |
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So did you get the alternator to work properly yet by getting excitation voltage to the orange-reg terminal like on the picture that Billd posted? I can't see anything changing there with a new alternator until that gets sorted out.
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dsm6678
AMC Nut Joined: Jan/08/2012 Location: Mid Atlantic Status: Offline Points: 478 |
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Not yet. I want to get the oem alternator first then work on that issue. Hopefully it will be here in a few days.
Dm
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tomj
AMC Addicted Joined: Jan/27/2010 Location: earth Status: Offline Points: 7553 |
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re: the "rev up to start charging" issue --
i had this happen to me, on a GM type alt i installed on a 258ci Hornet; a so-called "one wire" alt that's really three wires (output, battery-sense, idiot light). here's the thing: alternators need a bit of battery current to generate the small initial magnetic field needed to start the charging process. that current often provided by... the dash light!!! (see caveat below). i found out the hard way, by replacing the old #1853 or whatever it was with a modern LED replacement. it wouldn't charge til i revved it over 2000 rpm! onec i did it was fine. so if you're still having this problem, try installing the correct lamp/bulb. it's easy, and worst-case you'll be out a buck for a lamp. or look up lamp current ratings, and find one that draws more current. no harm can be done here. CAVEAT: some 1960's early alt cars relied 100% on the lamp to start the alternetor up. on those cars, with a burned lamp, NO CHARGING! and no lamp to tell you... so unless you noticed that on initial turon on the lamp was out (easy enough to overlook), you would end up with a dead battery and no good symptoms to diagnose! later cars added a resistor in parallel with the lamp somewhere in the harness so that you at least got late (rev-up) charging. beats no charge, eh? :-) |
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1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
1961 Roadster American, 195.6 OHV, T5 http://www.ramblerLore.com |
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70amcpwr
AMC Addicted Joined: Feb/16/2011 Location: Moultonboro NH Status: Offline Points: 1485 |
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Thanks for thought. It's running all of the correct bulbs and the issue just randomly started a year or so ago. I'm guessing when I get into it and (using 2 people and a multimeter) the problem should be able to be diagnosed as either input (low voltage) to the alternator or an internal alternator problem. My problem is never having that second (qualified) person available.
I was hoping someone (like yourself) would have had that same exact problem. |
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70amcpwr You just can't fix stupid.
SOLD 1970 BBO Javelin, wifes 73 AMX 360 4spd. Next project 1969 AMX |
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