73 Javelin won't charge until I blip the throttle

R/W/B wrote: D, Heres a thought. Hook your choke wire to the run side of starter relay.-----------Bill

I have found that drops the power to the coil at inappropriate times, making it a non-start in winter on occasion.

i have hooked my choke power to the accesory side of the fuse panel on several of my amc over the years. Its worked great every time.

Wrambler wrote: I'd use a relay to provide the power to the choke and you can probably pull that off the run side of the Starter relay. All the mid 80's Eagles used that three blade oil pressure sending unit and we wired past so many I could not count them all. Never had any comebacks. The oil sender couldn't handle the juice even when they were designed. Replacements burned out within a few months, so we just started jumping them.

Interesting information

The alternator had a 7 vac leg for the choke. 7 volts ac is very little load - I can see a full 12.6vdc taking out the OP switch, on the other hand, well, I've had them wired through the sender without fail, too, so I guess perhaps luck of the draw?

You don't need both - with the alternator to choke feed there is no power to the choke unless the engine is RUNNING. In those cases, the choke stat was a different number as it ran on 7vac.

With the oil pressure switch, THAT is what kills juice to the choke stat when the engine isn't running, and those would have used full 12vdc to the choke stat from a non-alternator feed.

So, car with 7vac from alternator feeding the choke, no running through the oil pressure switch, and used one part number for the choke stat.

Car without 7vac alternator feed to the choke used the oil pressure switch, 12 volts and a different number choke stat.

I get quite specific with the above descriptions because the reason it was done how it was done is to prevent power to the choke if the engine is NOT running. Say you turn the key on, or leave it on, or it takes a bit to get it started, well you've just opened the choke on a cool or cold engine because there was power to the choke that whole time.
But, power the choke from the alternator - or through the oil pressure switch, the choke gets nothing to warm it until the engine is actually RUNNING (or you crank it for 5 minutes and build oil pressure and close the switch in the O.P. switch, thus powering the choke)

It was about late 73 or perhaps 74 if I recall when AMC used that 7vac feed from the Motorola alternator. There's an additional stud on the back, if you hold it with the brushes up, output either on the bottom or lower left, the choke feed would be on the right, to the right and a bit below the brush cover.

That can be added to most alternators without a ton of effort, especially with a 74 or 75 rear frame.






Edited by billd - Jun/11/2014 at 12:59pm

OK, I never saw an answer to the sluggish engagement resolved by revving question? My sons 73 AMX you have to rev the motor several times to almost 4k RPM's to get it to kick in.