73 Javelin brake and suspension project

Why do you like to disagree or argue with everything I'm doing??
Who is working on it, anyway? 
 The lift would be a minor help to me only for under the car - how can it help under the hood?
Ya take everything you need down with you and stay until it's done. 
If it's on a lift you can't even get to the lines on the firewall....... you lean over the fenders for 3/4 of the work.
The only advantage is you can stand under the car to do the line from the firewall to the rear axle, then the two on the axle tubes. 
Or have it half-way up and you can stand next to the wheels and connect the lines to the caliper hoses - but then you have to have it down to run the lines under the hood.
The rear are the simple ones and I take everything I need with me - and have no problem laying down for that and getting up one time. 
The trouble lines are those under the hood against the firewall, down to the combo valve (or pressure differential switch) That is where the up and down, back and forth truly is. 


Edited by billd - Mar/23/2018 at 12:02pm

That copper/nickel line will look good and it's way better to double flare then steel. Looking forward to seeing the pictures.

We never used lube on the flares and threads of the inverted flare nuts - however, I find it an interesting thing to look at. The biggest issue is to avoid contamination and to not make the nuts actually behave differently when you tighten them - in other words, we know what lube does to a standard bolt torque.....
On the other hand, I was ready to use lube on those cursed SS lines I put on my 70 - and then decided "never again stainless".
The newer C/N lines are easier to seal, far easier to do a double flare and it's a bit softer so should seal fine - but I did use a touch, and I mean touch, about as much as the oils on our skin, of a brake lube I had around since Hector was a pup (by the way, how old is Hector by now??)
Anyway, lube is something I was planning on looking into further. There's no mention of it in any books or materials I have. We did use "Girling grease" on internal parts - the name comes from Girling, the maker of brake and clutch cylinders since the stone age - and the maker of the original clutch cylinders for Eagles. 
I have wondered if that same stuff may work. 
I've made two lines so far -been concentrating on the suspension and steering and did those short lines for the right side while things were plating, sitting in the electrolysis buckets or paint was drying, etc. 
I'm interested in hearing more on the lube apparently a couple of you have used.......
Rats, I guess my other books are back up at the house. I found my Bendix guide from 1983 out here and it doesn't give any info at all in that respect. But it shows pretty much all known calipers, pads, and hoses up to 1983, including foreign makes. Pretty cool. 
I'll look tonight when I get back to the house and see if there's anything anywhere in any of the books or training materials. 
Lube on the back side of the flare, where the nut contacts the flare, that's an idea I need to look into.

I'd not use brake fluid for another reason - its affinity for water, and when left on steel to mix with air and moisture, you get RUST.
Brake fluid, IMO, would promote rust later. Note that any place it seeps onto eventually rusts really bad. We've all seen how boosters look after the master cylinder seeps out the back a bit.
Those master cylinders can be evil.

You'd likely have trouble reaching these brake lines - it's hard to tell from the photos but it's one of those lean way in and reach between engine and firewall with a small ratchet and using a lot of patience, remove the screw and clamp......... 
I'm going to try to go back with new lines in the same place. 
A lift would have been nice when doing the brake fitting - as I was sitting for that. That's where there was up and down - sit and fit stuff, not yet good enough, get back up again. There's a lot of finger prints on the bumper - luckily it's attached well. Ha.
Unfortunately, however, no lift will help in the engine compartment fitting the new lines in there. 
I'm ok laying down under the car - it's when I get up that menieres hits me and I have to get up certain ways. But I can stay under there as long as needed. Standing is what gets to my back.
The doc said all those years as a mechanic, then farming - all that lifting and carrying. I used to lift transmissions to the bench, 4 cylinder engines I lifted onto the bench without help, and loading seed, bailing hay and straw - it has taken a toll and now standing is a problem as is sitting unless it's a seat or chair that's just right. My back has waaaay too much curve - instead of the 30 degrees it should have, it's got 60. And that's caused nerve issues and disk issues. (I asked about grease fittings but we don't have that technology yet, I guess)
The front wheels are on and the car is on the ground, making it a Bit easier leaning into the engine area........ the big issue is these fenders, like the Eagle fenders, and the other javelins, they DENT easily. The left fender has a spot that's "dented in" and won't stay popped back up like it should. But who knows what the PO did - maybe the metal is thin on the top of that fender. Luckily I have a NOS left. Wish I could find a NOS right fender, too. 
I have a different limited slip differential to put under the car but want to go through it first and totally renew the brakes on it before putting it under the car so that project will have to wait a bit. 
This engine breaks the tires loose pretty easily and it often seems as if it's spinning just one so I question the differential that's under it, so got another twin grip to go through and put under it  - some day.....
For now, all I need to do is finish up the brake lines, get it aligned and it's on the road again - 
Oh, need to install the new PC front seat stuff but that's a different thread.