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73 Javelin brake and suspension project |
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Page <1 89101112 14> |
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Lyle 
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Joined: Jul/17/2014 Location: None Status: Offline Points: 772 |
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 Posted: Mar/24/2018 at 6:43am |
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Bill, noticed from your pictures you have a glass fuel filter. There was much discussion of these on this post:
http://theamcforum.com/forum/can-not-accelerate_topic92957_post823353.html?KW=glass+fuel+filter#823353
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pit crew
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Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: delete Status: Offline Points: 5341 |
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Posted: Mar/24/2018 at 6:51am |
P.S. I don't care what you say, that is starting to look like a show car.  |
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 73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20 |
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Lyle
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Joined: Jul/17/2014 Location: None Status: Offline Points: 772 |
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Posted: Mar/24/2018 at 7:38am |
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Were I first started working at a truck body shop there was a Portuguese Coach Builder by trade. After a hail storm a local dealer asked if could do repairs on dozens of damaged new cars. With a small propane torch, rag and a bucket of water he removed 90% + of the damage. No repaint required. Saved the dealer $$$ in one day.
Should have seen the brass inlay horse drawn coaches he made from scratch, wood spoke wheels and all - pure art.
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billd
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Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Posted: Mar/24/2018 at 12:16pm |
This old clunker? I only drive it when I don't care how I look............ HAHAHA I removed some dents while doing my SX4 body work, prepping it for the final paint, using a torch and a rag soaked in COLD water. Heat the spot and then quench it. In a couple of places I got it flat enough using that and a dolly and hammer GENTLY that I didn't even have to use filler - primer and blocking took care of it. Not sure I want to try it but may see about that spot in that left fender top. I just don't want to mess up the paint even though the car is going to need new paint eventually anyway. |
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billd
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Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Posted: Mar/31/2018 at 5:29pm |
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Ran the new rear brake line today. The original had a little accident years go when the drive shaft somehow whipped up against the floor at the front and ripped up the line. the PO replaced the brake line roughly from where it jogs over to the tunnel area back to where it comes out of the tunnel to snake back to the differential hose. So there were two unions under there and extra line sort of looped as he obviously used a standard length and ran a slightly different route than stock.
I found at least three broken line clips still screwed to the floor below, a couple in the tunnel area. I ran a new single line all the way from the hose at the rear to the union at the firewall and used the factory spots for clips to secure the line. So the steel line to the rear is done. The steel line from the combo valve out to the right front wheel is done. i got a good start on the line from the master cylinder port for the rear brakes over to the combo valve. That one will take perhaps another half hour, then I'll have the line from master port for the front brakes over to the combo valve and the line from the combo valve over to the left front wheel. Getting closer to putting fluid back into the master and flushing and bleeding. Running those lines along the firewall isn't easy - there's a lot of stuff in the way it's hard to get to back of the engine, it snakes around wires and other lines, etc. |
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billd
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Posted: Apr/02/2018 at 2:29pm |
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I'm working on trying to bleed the brakes - so I can move the car around in my shop to swap differentials, and in the process discovered something I wonder if anyone else has run into.,,
I have the left front wheel off, the car raised up a bit to make it easier to get to the bleeders, etc. and decided to turn the wheels to the left, bleeder for the left front is on the front and it would then point outward and easier to see and reach. As I turned the steering wheel there was a spot of resistance then a pop then it finished turning. What the heck? Under the car was the left inner tie rod great fitting....... then I looked and noticed the inner tie rods hit the cross member. HUH???????????????? Wait a minute - how could I have screwed that up? So I crawled under the front of the car and looked - nope, I don't have the drag link on backwards or up-side-down (can't anyway, the holes are tapers, it's not perfectly straight, and the end with the greater distance between holes has to go to the idler arm end. I even doubted all of my front end experiences and looked at the Concord, my other Javelin, nope, I wasn't drunk or drugged, and think I was awake, it is correct but man, those inner tie rods can't have grease fittings in them, even PLUGS would smack the crossmember - the area where the engine mount saddles are welded on, those pieces stick forward a bit and are directly behind the inner tie rod ends when the car is sitting straight. What the heck did I screw up? This is embarrassing as heck - I've done more front ends than I care to remember....... and have never ever had anything hit before. |
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billd
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Posted: Apr/02/2018 at 8:52pm |
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Still need to figure out why the inner tie rods all but hit the cross member where the mount areas come down. Geesh it's CLOSE as heck and I can't put a grease fitting in or even a plug on the left side.
But I got the brakes bled - at least the front are good and the rear are bled a bit. I did not do the rears very well on purpose. Why, when I'm going to replace the whole differential, brakes and wheel cylinders and the rear hose? So started the car, pulled it out and turned it around so I can get to the back end (shop so full it's hard to work in there now) I pulled the plastic covers off the differential I had stashed in my shop, rolled it around to the middle of the shop on the home-made differential stand and proceeded to remove the steel lines and flex hose off the axle tubes. I pulled the drums and figured I'd need to do some brake work beyond wheel cylinders and to my surprise - the drums are excellent - no ridge at all, and the shoes have at most 10,000 miles on them - if that much. You can still read the whole CoF marks and they have little wear and are very even. I'll clean things up and put the new wheel cylinders on, make the new axle lines, and get it ready to install. I have not checked the ratio on the existing open differential that's under the car. This twin grip is a 3.15 ratio - I marked an axle and the pinion yoke and turned the pinion three turns and not quite a fifth of a turn more and got one turn of the axles. Twin grip made the math easy. It seems to be in good shape and I'm really glad the brakes are this good. No need to turn the drums, etc. The springs that came with it are ok, rusty, but not as bad as those under the car now. So it should sit better and I shouldn't have the trouble with the car going sideways on me when I nail it. This will mean all brake lines and hoses will be new, wheel cylinders new, calipers, pads, etc. up front new, brake hoses new - should be good to go as long as that original combo valve is still operational. That's the only real question now. It started ok, ran good, and the shifter worked fine. MAY need some tweak as far as adjustment, but it worked SMOOTHLY. I have a good NSS/backup switch harness now but need to check the TSM as I can't find the spot on the car to plug it into the harness. Who knows the PO may have removed or taped that up somewhere. It's not where I expected it at all. Not sure what he did to bypass any sort of a NSS - because it starts, that means he's had to have bypassed any sort of switch in order for it to start. We all know if the NSS doesn't work the car won't crank and to get around a bad switch you can jumper it, so somewhere he's got a jumper or twisted wires together to make it crank. Hopefully the TSM will tell me where this should plug in as far as where on the car.
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farna
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Moderator Lost Dealership Project Joined: Jul/08/2007 Location: South Carolina Status: Offline Points: 19686 |
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Posted: Apr/03/2018 at 6:02am |
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Do the plugs/grease fittings only hit with the car up off the ground? If so they will clear with weight on the wheels, and if you're flying through the air in a jump you probably won't be turning the wheels...so should be okay. Could check one of the other cars with wheels hanging too...
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Frank Swygert
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wantajav
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Joined: Sep/04/2009 Location: PA Status: Offline Points: 1151 |
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Posted: Apr/03/2018 at 6:55am |
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Nice job so far BillD
Don't let the perfect become the enemy of the good, they say...these are great cars not Pebble Beach Deusenbergs. But are you sure your new parts are the same as the old ones? My inner tie rod ends when the car is sitting on the ground, are not even close to hitting. I can get my whole hand back there. If you want I'll measure the Center-center length of my Pitman and steering arms for ya..(69 car though) Only two things are in play here. Where is the cross member and how far back does the pitman arm/steering arm put the inner tie rod ends. Everything else is fixed by mounting holes.
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billd
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Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Posted: Apr/03/2018 at 7:27am |
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Farna - I had thought of that but then the inner tie rod ends never move vertically, only laterally or horizontally because the drag link is supported by the idler on the right and pitman on the left and they move in an arc that isn't quite horizontal - and the inner ends are never allowed to do more than pivot at the drag link.
I checked and the old tie rods aren't as "heavy" looking. The parts are a good fit and the MOOG tie rods are heavier made with ends slightly larger. The cross member is held in place by nuts and bolts with tapered heads- in fact a nut and bolt on each end IF IT IS LIKE 1970 - and again, IF IT IS LIKE 1970, the nut is literally a lug nut and the bolt could be called a lug bolt because it's fine thread and a tapered or countersunk head. This means when the bolt and nut are in place on each end it forces the cross member into a perfect position.. You can't slide them back and forth. There's no gap - you can't stick a pinky between tie rod end and the part of the cross member that the engine mounts bolt to. It's the VERTICAL part of the cross member - the saddles for the mounts extend down top to bottom of the cross member. There's a lot more room on the Concord but then it's a 6 and the cross member sweeps back. I looked at my 70 and although the parts look the same, there's more room. I did a google search "javelin tie rods cross member" and got hits- I'm not the first person....... And one solution was "grind the part of the engine mount support that gets hit" I'd not mind a pic, or measurements, or whatever, and can post photos when I get the front end back up on it - right now the car is turned around so I can get to the back and the front is boxed in by the shop door and "stuff". All I can do is stand in front of it. It does appear to be worse with the front wheels up - but then the tie rods are down on the outer ends and the angles of the tie rods change enough ....
There's no way to get anything on incorrectly - I have a ton of self-doubt and always have so always question myself and have to either prove myself wrong or right with almost everything I do - and on this I figured hey, can't put the drag link in backwards or the wheels would only turn one direction because of the differences in distance frame to idler and frame to pitman, can't have it backwards, the holes are tapered and things wouldn't go in enough to put the nuts on, nothing is sagging or broken or bent. At this point since I've found others who replaced tie rods and then had the grease fittings hit - I assume the new parts are FATTER and clear differently. |
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billd wrote: