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71-74 Jav Window guide Bushings "No More Wobble"

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PlazinJavelin View Drop Down
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    Posted: Feb/19/2012 at 9:00pm

1971-1974 Javelin Window Guide Bushings 

I had wanted to do more of complete post/write up on this, but just hadn't had the time. After a couple of request I'm throwing out the basic info for those who'd like to try and improve their door window stability without waiting on me to make prettier instructions.

Now... you either can take the "easy way" and knock out the old bushing, destroying them in the process, or dismantle the window guide, pull out the window and guides to gently remove the old bushings. My old ones were either missing, shot or broking/crumbling already, so who cared if they came out in pieces.  In the simplest attempt, one needs to roll the window about 90% of the way down, and remove the door panel to get at the bushings.

So here's what I did on my windows once I got all the measurements down to a few thousands...

First I bought a 12"*12" sheet of .125" thick Acetal. It's similar to teflon, but rates harder and more ware resistant. It's veeeery slick stuff, same thickness but harder that OEM and faaaar tougher than the after market junk I bought, tried and scraped.

Next I cut blocks to size from the sheet, slightly beveled one end and drilled a "locking hole". The hole is roughly 1/8". The red edge farthest from the hole is the beveled edge. That edge needs just a hair taken off so the block can more easily be tapped in to place. Doesn't need much off, just the corners so it will go in without a big fight. The 1.6" is important for a perfect tight fit. The 1.8" inch is less important for accuracy. The hole placement doesn't need to be laser accurate either, but get it close as possible again for easier fit. You can make all identical pieces, no need for lefts and rights as long as the bevel is on the correct end.

What the bevel looks like...


Once the old ones are out of the way, time to tap in the new ones. Here's where you're going to find that 1.6" cut and accompanying bevel important with the install. On 3 doors I had, the clearance was 1.6" on the nose. I hope this is true of other years and doors. You may want to try and measure your own to be sure it's the same.

I pressed the block in just a tad against the guild pole, then put a small strip of wood on the top of the new bushing and tapped on the wood to set the bushing in place. You want the holes you drilled to line up with the slot in the metal brace where the old bushings were so the "lock pin" can be slid in and bent over at the ends. See the next set of pictures....





Ok,  last I'm going to take up the slack in the "donut bushing" with a method recommended by a couple of other members....  1/8" zip ties. Again the after market bushing was horribly made, softer than OEM and again scraped. Turned out it was better just to run one loop of a zip tie through the gap. (Two loops on this door since it was so worn) The donut bushing has 4 slots in it. Basically at the 12,3,6 and 9 oclock positions.  Fill one (or two) of these slots with a zip tie and the slop is gone. If your donut is still good and snug, bypass this part. You don't want the bushing too tight.

Now it's time for a bit of grease to make all this slide well. In my case, all the wobble was gone and the window still moved up and down very well. Wobble of the window was about 1/2"or better before I made these changes. After, it was barely measurable at maybe 1/16" of an inch.





Edited by PlazinJavelin - Feb/19/2012 at 9:42pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hassyfoto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/20/2012 at 6:25am

Nice pics and info!

PS  I completed the hood frame replacement in November, I just haven't got around to posting the pics.

Murphy's Law:
Any given mechanical job you decide to solve alone will imminently require a third hand, at its most critical moment

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PlazinJavelin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/20/2012 at 5:24pm

Thanks, and I look forward to seeing your other work. 

I could give you a hard time about not posting your pics sooner, but ya know... pot, kettle, black  :)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SST343 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/21/2012 at 12:08am
Thanks for sharing Troy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pit crew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/21/2012 at 6:24am
Very good information. Thanks for posting.

Now when are you going to start milling your own "donuts" from Acetal and offering them for sale? Wink


Edited by pit crew - Feb/21/2012 at 6:25am

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pit crew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/30/2012 at 9:43pm
Hey Troy. You started this so you get all the credit. I am now a big fan of acetal. The windows are back in the Javelin and it is like they are welded in place. No wobble, none at all. Crazy solid now. Look at the new acetal bushing compared what the vendors are selling now a days. It was milled from 1 inch thick acetal. These are just prototypes. What a great idea you had. Thanks a million.

No more zip ties for me. LOL






Edited by pit crew - Dec/23/2017 at 8:36pm

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PlazinJavelin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/30/2012 at 11:10pm

Oh man your milled bushing is awesome. Did you do that by hand or CNC? That window won't wobble again for the next 400 years! So when am I going to be able to buy a set of those? I just put my doors in primer this past weekend, but still not mounted and not too late to make some changes.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Javelin74 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/31/2012 at 1:45am
No kidding!  Those look killer!  I'd be interested in a set and I imagine others would, too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 72Javelin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/31/2012 at 6:18am
I could use some of those too...
Jeff Reeves
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pit crew Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/31/2012 at 7:35am
Originally posted by PlazinJavelin PlazinJavelin wrote:

Oh man your milled bushing is awesome. Did you do that by hand or CNC? That window won't wobble again for the next 400 years! So when am I going to be able to buy a set of those? I just put my doors in primer this past weekend, but still not mounted and not too late to make some changes.

Why thank you sir. You planted the seed that got them done. They were milled on a 3 axis system. We had to put some money down on the programing of the machine and may still owe a little more money but it is looking like we may be able to get a few sets run through as a prototype batch in the next week or two. The diameter of the center hole was a slight compromise. They measured the post from top to bottom and found that not only does it vary but that each post is slightly different from the other. They were quite snug when first installed with your new side guide plate design but once they were lubricated and run up and down a few times they were better than the day the Javelin rolled off the line in Kenosha. I'll keep everyone up to date here on the forum. If this all works out I will be sure you are at the top of the list Troy.

Dan and Jeff, keep an eye on this thread. If this works out I'll post the information here first.



Edited by pit crew - May/31/2012 at 7:43am

73 Hornet - 401EFI - THM400 - Twin Grip 20
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