700R4 to AMC V8

I was recently asked the question as to how to get a 700R4 transmission hooked up to an AMC V8 and the following kit probably should get the job done:

http://www.advanceadapters.com/products/716138--chevy-auto-trans-to-amc-engine-adapter/

As noted in the instructions you will need a flex plate.  They are for sale so they can be purchased.

Two more items will be needed.  Something to control the lock up torque converter.  It can be done with a manual switch but the problem with that is forgetting it when it is needed and burning up the transmission.  It can also be done with a brake switch addition. 
I like the one where a pressure sensor switch is installed in the 3/4 servo and a ported vacuum switch is installed in the proper carburetor tap.  This insures that the transmission is in 4th gear AND ported vacuum is high enough which means cruising.  And if it either down shifts due to acceleration or ported vacuum falls off due to climbing a grade the torque converter will unlock.  In addition a brake switch can be added to insure if the brakes are hit, the torque converter unlocks. This can be accomplished for about $100.00 worth of kits + Parts.  There are of course a whole host of modifications that can be purchased for this, but I like the one described.  Last but not least is the speedometer drive.
There are adapters available for the transmission to convert them to mechanical cable drive or you can go whole hog to a satellite driven speedometer.
I am also a fan of a 2200 rpm stall torque converter.

Will it fit under the tunnel, well yes sort of, it is wide.  I solved that by widening my tunnel by 4 inches which gave room for the pressure switch for the converter lock up and space to mount an aftermarket transcooler next to the transmission.  As new rugs were being installed, they fit right over the widened tunnel and unless you are looking for it, it is not noticeable.
I am going to save the coins for a new speedometer and in the mean time drive off of the tachometer.

As to final gearing?  I will eventually pick a final drive that will work out to about 32mph / 1000 rpm in 5th locked up.  In the mean time the 2.73 AMC 15 rear axle which is in good shape will stay until 1) it breaks or 2) I get tired of the tall gearing.

700R4 torque converter Lock Up wiring and kits:
http://www.google.com/search?site=&source=hp&q=700r4+torque+converter+lockup+wiring&oq=700R4+Torqe&gs_l=hp.1.1.0i13l10.4587.11828.0.17404.12.12.0.0.0.0.515.2342.0j10j1j5-1.12.0.chm_loc%2Chmss2%3Dfalse%2Chmnts%3D50000...0...1.1.40.hp..1.11.1821.0.B0KU_3MhwZU

GPS Electronic Speedometers:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Auto-Meter-5289-GPS-Sending-Module-Universal-for-Electric-Speedometers,66160.html



Edited by uncljohn - Apr/12/2014 at 8:02am

A 200 is a better fit, and it has been done.  Comparatively speaking a 700 is to a 200 as a 727 is to a 904.  Both can be made to work, the smaller transmissions fit better carry the power when built and break quicker.  Yet people will beat the heck out of the tunnel to get a 727 installed when they don't need one.  I have a 904 I have built up 14 years ago behind a rather strong 6 that I have driven hard for years with no problem what so ever.  But a stronger engine might break it.  Or harder driving.  Same problem, both work, one fits better and breaks earlier.
I scored a 700, so I am installing it in a Hornet.  I made the tunnel larger in order to fit the 700 easier rather than beat it to death with a sledge hammer.  It looks nicer and works.



Edited by uncljohn - Apr/12/2014 at 7:49am

Novak adopters also makes a kit for 700R4 to AMC blocks. They have a very good knowledge data base on there web site and there kit includes the flex plate too, for about the same money. Also works with 200R4. Also be aware that there are several " Flavors" of 700R4s . The data base explains the differences among the 700R4s which to use and which are not as user friendly. Really this swap in general has become so common the easiest thing is to just order a 700R4 or a 200R4 from some one.
(Not just for AMCs but for a lot older cars in general. Picking up a 1954 Hudson Hornet  Sunday in San Diego with Hudson 308 and 700R4 on it.) By the time you find a core 700R4 and then have it rebuilt it just about cheaper to order one to your specs and just have it shipped to you. LRDaum

I have a 200-R4 behind the 401 in our Rogue. I tried a 700 and it wouldn't fit the tunnel. Even the 200 hits around the bell housing area of the firewall and it's tight around the servo on the pass side. Both had to be modified. The trans mount is about 6" to the rear, so you have to build a crossmember. 

The torque converter people will build TCs without lock up. They will not burn up just because it doesnt lock up.     And a very little known fact about the 700 is it locks the TC in 3rd. Then it goes in OD. I used to pull them out and tear them down all the time. And if you get a core to rebuild, you dont want any thing older than 1986. Older ones cost more to rebuild because so many parts need to be upgraded to make it last.