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70 Rebel SST

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amcrules00 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amcrules00 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/04/2011 at 5:56am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 70amcpwr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/07/2011 at 3:00pm
Originally posted by 390spirit 390spirit wrote:

70amcpwr, Clarksville NH, is that where Clarks trading post is where they have the bear shows?

Norm
 No, That's in Lincoln NH I believe, about  1 1/2 hours south of us.
70amcpwr You just can't fix stupid.
SOLD 1970 BBO Javelin, wifes 73 AMX 360 4spd. Next project 1969 AMX
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mc5fan1968 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/27/2012 at 12:07am
The VFN repro scoop is cheap, about  $110.00. It is not a good quality fake. It does not have any fastening points on the front so as you gain road speed, the front of the scoop flexes up off the hood.

I purchased the Bayshore Blue Rebel SST in the picture. It rides and runs well but has numerous issues that I need to address, mainly electrical. I believe the clunking in the rear suspension are from the adjustable control arms that the previous genius owner installed. I bet they do not properly fit the factory mounts. The rear sway bar contacts the differential housing when you get on it. I would gladly replace it with a stock Machine rear sway bar if I get one.

The hood has a jagged, horrible hole under the scoop that "MD" cut out. I can't, for the life of me figure why somebody would hack up a perfectly good hood like that, to put a cheap phony scoop on it and not have functional cold air induction is a SIN! He has a Machine hood. I can't figure why he didn't cut a proper size and geometry hole in it, especially since it has no means of directing the air into the carb. I suppose it is great if you want dirt, bugs and rain water all over your engine. Try to figure people out......

I had a hood shipped from Portland, Oregon to replace it. The VFN scoop might be modified to eliminate the tachometer bay since I have a Machine hood in my basement, 2 REAL Machine hood scoops and functional tachometer. I may do the clone thing later.

Since everyone does Machine Clones, I want to do the SST look with a few modifications. Non-tach hood scoop as a possibility. I got a standard 1970 grille and all the emblems off of ebay. I missed a few good parts cars but am still looking out for one. Hopefully I will get everything I want to replace. I wish the last owner had NOT taken out the glove box latch and release assembley. I cant find the PROPER round gear-like piece that was 1970 only. I think he needed it for his other Rebel. Maybe MY REBEL was his parts car.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 70amcpwr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/27/2012 at 6:58am
Originally posted by rebelxxxxxx rebelxxxxxx wrote:

I got this car because of the color, just didnt know everything on it was wore out, or just flat out done wrong...
Anyways, this is my girls drag car for next year..





Obviously the last three pics are when I first got it running and before every nut and bolt came off except for the deck lid bolts, and the gas tank j-bolts...
What a mess. All new legendary interior, front end, engine, tranny, etc.. 
.030 over 360, 727 with a 3200 converter, and 4.10's with mosers... 
How's the project going?
70amcpwr You just can't fix stupid.
SOLD 1970 BBO Javelin, wifes 73 AMX 360 4spd. Next project 1969 AMX
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6PakBee View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/27/2012 at 8:33am
Originally posted by mc5fan1968 mc5fan1968 wrote:

.......I purchased the Bayshore Blue Rebel SST in the picture......


I'm confused.  Which Bayshore Blue Rebel?  I only see rebelxxxxxx's?


Edited by 6PakBee - Nov/27/2012 at 8:34am
Roger Gazur
1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler
1970 RWB 4-spd Machine
1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX

All project cars.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mc5fan1968 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/27/2012 at 10:58am
I bought rebelxxxxxx's car 3 months ago.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 6PakBee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov/27/2012 at 6:24pm
Got it. Thumbs Up
Roger Gazur
1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler
1970 RWB 4-spd Machine
1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX

All project cars.

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mc5fan1968 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mc5fan1968 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/15/2012 at 10:34pm
Fixed dash lights. Hint: missing screws through printed circuit were ground connections for the dash lights. What a surprise, you have to put ALL THE SCREWS IN! What a concept. I bought LED lights for the green dash lights and turn signals. They are seriously bright.

I fixed the dash overlay that was held together with RTV Silicone. Cyanoacrilate based Gorilla glue worked very well. Here's a hint, don't tighten the screws too tight, it tends to break things. What another concept!

I need to paint and install the unmolested hood that I bought from Portland, OR since the one I have is horribly disfigured as the previous owner apparently wasn't concerned with it's appearance or supposed function (which surely is almost nil at best) or what people would think of his abilities as a mechanic once they saw what was done to the hood

I have about $9000.00 into it so far. I'm sure it will take at least several thousand more to correct all the flaws and blemished work from yesteryear's tinkers.

The under hood looks nice (less the hood cutout) but could still use some detailing. The missing grommets that seal wiring and speedo cable would be nice too. I guess I ask too much. I don't like wind coming from under my dash.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mc5fan1968 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/17/2012 at 11:04am
I had the driver's side fender stripped to bare metal. What a horror show! DEEEEP rust pits are everywhere. The holes from emblems were welded shut, panel overheated and warped, other emblem holes (from the 1967 REBEL script emblem) were hammered in and filled with body filler. I looked for a replacement fender but didn't find one so iI worked with what I had. It took quite a while to get it into shape.

The NOS passenger fender was starting to rust pit everywhere since it was left in the black factory primer. PRIMER IS POROUS AND DOES NOT PROTECT THE STEEL, YOU MUST PAINT IT. Why don't people get it through their thick skulls, you must paint over primer!

I replaced the quarter window seals and roof rail seals. I do have new lower door seals but haven't installed them. I picked up some refurb door handles and new door locks. So far I installed the driver's side. The console has been modifies to hold the B&M Megashifter.

The weather is getting crummy so I don't know what I will get done before Spring.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mc5fan1968 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/23/2012 at 11:57pm
Got the wipers functional today. The concentric drive on the wiper motor was missing. I played holy heck finding one. I figured the last owner would be a dead end. It was a real pain to install. I assume that is why it was missing in the 1st place.

I replaced the missing clip in the choke linkage and removed the spacer under the carburetor. I want to put the correct, factory air cleaner, etc. under the hood. I still need to wire up the electric choke. The previous owner apparently wasn't worried about the choke.

Now to find the CORRECT A/C heater box so I can have functional dash vents. The correct heater/ a/c controls would be nice too. Don't forget the A/C temp control and knob that is missing. I think all that stuff was taken out of my Rebel by the last owner to go into his other car. The things I was told didn't wash.


Edited by mc5fan1968 - Dec/23/2012 at 11:58pm
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