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70 Javelin Rust Repair |
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hassyfoto 
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Joined: Nov/16/2009 Location: Maryland Status: Offline Points: 3378 |
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 Posted: Mar/12/2017 at 8:11pm |
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If anyone is wondering about the numbers I have on the side of the car. Well, before I cut anything off the car, I laid the replacement patch panel up on the car. I then measured from the top of the patch to the horizontal body line. This gave a proper reference measurement to double check the location of the new patch panel before welding. Glad I took the time to measure since I had rust so high up on the side.
Edited by hassyfoto - Mar/12/2017 at 8:19pm |
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Murphy's Law:
Any given mechanical job you decide to solve alone will imminently require a third hand, at its most critical moment |
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AMXAL
AMC Nut
Joined: Feb/19/2012 Location: IL. Status: Offline Points: 324 |
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Posted: Mar/15/2017 at 6:24pm |
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Wow Kirby that is ugly.....so best of luck, been there once...maybe twice, looking forward to seeing your progress..Good luck
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amcglass
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Joined: Dec/11/2011 Location: NW Ohio Status: Offline Points: 2588 |
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Posted: Mar/16/2017 at 4:45am |
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some of them pictures look awfully familure to me as I was doing the same .... check out 70 Donohue Repairs in this section and just see how close they were
Good luck looks great so far
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Javmanpres
BBG Mark Donohue 401 74 Jav/AMX 71 Matador 2dr sedan delivery wagon 1902 Rambler Runabout 70 T/A Javelin |
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hassyfoto
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Joined: Nov/16/2009 Location: Maryland Status: Offline Points: 3378 |
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Posted: Mar/16/2017 at 8:07pm |
Hey Randy, Yup, I am just following your lead. Seems them there cars seems to rust in all the same places. I had the same issues as you, rust above the patch panels, so multiple patches had to be created by hand. What I did find was how well the center wheel well replacement patch worked for me as a patch for the outer wheel house. I had figured on a 1/8 inch offset so the overlapping panels would not bind or cause panel alignment issue (corrected with massive amounts of bondo by some, but not for me). So I feel pretty good that most of the welding work only required a very thin coat of body filler to finish up the panel repair. I have not posted any photos yet as I am currently working on some pin holes and hope to get the first layer of epoxy primer on the car in the next week or so. ( Cold front & snow storm put a damper on doing much work in my unheated garage). I have finished all the welding on the trunk floor which I am glad to be beyond that step. I don't bend and contort as easily as I did when I was younger. Crawling in & out of the trunk to weld up in the corners was making me feel like a 90 y/o man every time I got out of the trunk.
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Murphy's Law:
Any given mechanical job you decide to solve alone will imminently require a third hand, at its most critical moment |
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amxdreamer
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Joined: Jul/30/2008 Location: Vancouver, BC Status: Offline Points: 8508 |
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Posted: Mar/17/2017 at 10:53am |
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I thought you were a 90 year old man Kirby!
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Tony
Vancouver, BC 1970 AMX 1972 Badassador AMO#10333 |
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hassyfoto
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Joined: Nov/16/2009 Location: Maryland Status: Offline Points: 3378 |
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Posted: Mar/17/2017 at 4:40pm |
I am, I just look P-u-r-r-r-t-y for my age!
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Murphy's Law:
Any given mechanical job you decide to solve alone will imminently require a third hand, at its most critical moment |
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hassyfoto
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Joined: Nov/16/2009 Location: Maryland Status: Offline Points: 3378 |
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Posted: Mar/18/2017 at 8:20am |
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With all the snow and cold weather it has been difficult to work on the car. My garage does not have heat, so, I use a torpedo heater. The problem, the ambient air tempature hits 65, but the metal on the car is still cold. Went ahead and prepared the underside of the car and inside the trunk for an application of epoxy sealer.
 After I applied the epoxy sealer, I applied seam sealer with an acid brush. Since the areas getting the seam sealer will not be seen on the car I wasn't to concerned about a perfectly neat seam. Although the seam sealer looks pretty messy in the photos, it levels out while curing. (this is what happens to seam sealer when it is applied in a cold condition onto cold metal. Just not very smooth) All the welds on both the inside and underside of the car had seam sealer applied. Since I used the overlap method of patch panel replacement on the car in certain areas and there is a 1.5 inch overlap of metal from the factory design on the trunk floor to rear body panel, using weld-thru primer and seam sealing both sides will maximize my anti-corrosion efforts.  Cleaned & epoxy sealed wheel well    Inside of trunk floor against the rear body panel. This the area of the factory trunk floor that is made in multiple sections. So, every seam and weld was seam sealed for rust prevention. Next step, allow everything to cure for a week or so ( cold weather slows everything down) and apply a second coat of epoxy sealer over the first coat of epoxy and the seam sealer. Guess I'll start the body work while I'm waiting for all this stuff to dry/cure |
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Murphy's Law:
Any given mechanical job you decide to solve alone will imminently require a third hand, at its most critical moment |
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purple72Gremlin
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Charter Member Joined: Jul/01/2007 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 16611 |
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Posted: Mar/18/2017 at 8:43am |
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Looks good to me!
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Jerry_Gergich
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Joined: Apr/30/2014 Location: PA Status: Offline Points: 46 |
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Posted: Mar/18/2017 at 5:07pm |
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That's some good looking work! And you've been making good time from the looks of it.
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232jav3sp
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Joined: Jan/09/2013 Location: Texas Status: Offline Points: 2451 |
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Posted: Mar/19/2017 at 12:49pm |
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If I can ever stop working on other people's cars, at home, I can do this same repair to my Javelin! Glad to see you getting everything done.
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amcglass wrote: