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70 Javelin Rust Repair

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232jav3sp View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 232jav3sp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/15/2017 at 8:58pm
Gee...  This looks all too familiar to me.  My 70 has nearly the exact same issues.  Although, not all of my trunk floor needs replacing.  I, too, purchased that trunk pan from ebay.  It's something, but, certainly not THE something.  Lots to be desired with it.  Best of luck!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hassyfoto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/16/2017 at 6:44pm
Originally posted by LakesideRamblin LakesideRamblin wrote:

My hat is off to you. You see the problem and jump on it. Looks like the repair will work out nicely when completed and you get all the satisfaction!   Thank you for sharing your work with us.

I normally would not have jumped in so fast or trying so hard to get this accomplished, but, I am working very hard to organize the AMO Nationals and would feel that as a lead organizer I should try & have my car there.  Kevin S. will be sure to keep me on my toes to see if I really can get the car back together in time. I may not have paint on the car, but I can still place the car in display to support the event. 
Wish me luck! I'll need it.
Murphy's Law:
Any given mechanical job you decide to solve alone will imminently require a third hand, at its most critical moment

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kcsamc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/16/2017 at 8:29pm
Just mix a little green in with the last coat of primer you get laid down before Gettysburg - it will be all good!

If you get far enough to take it by June - you'll be working much faster than me!


Kevin Shope
1964 Classic 660
67 Rogue 290-4V 4spd Conv
A-Scheme SC/Rambler (69 SC JOURNEY)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rockAMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/16/2017 at 10:01pm
Looks like you will be installing new rear quarter patch panels and trunk dropoffs. How far down does the inner wheel well go on the back? Looks like about to the top of the trunk dropoff but your picture is small. Please post photos when you do this if you can. 
DWR
1968 AMX

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hassyfoto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/16/2017 at 10:04pm

If you get far enough to take it by June - you'll be working much faster than me!


[/QUOTE]
Completing a full rotisserie restoration on a valuable historic car is a whole different story.
 
There is a difference, I am only repairing, correctly to very nice road worthy condition not a historic vehicle restoration like you. 

If I can get this unplanned repair completed by June, I can still drive the car for this show season and hit the other side next winter. At least next winter the trunk floor, rear x-member and rear body panel will already be completed. I will just need to repair/replace the right quarter panel, outer wheel well and the rear inner & outer rocker. That is very doable during one winter.

I have been preparing for a "full" restoration down the road. I was hoping in a few years to pull the car off the road for 1-2 years and do it the way I want. Which is a first class restoration. Believe it or not, in the last 5 years I have rebuilt two new fenders, two new doors, a trunk lid, grille, engine, transmission, rear axle assembly and rear spoiler. The hood was completely rebuilt  4 years ago when the frame of the hood rotted out. So basically, all the bolt on parts are already rebuilt. Now that I am rebuilding the trunk floor and left quarter this year, when I do get ready for the complete make-over, it should be a relatively quick.
Murphy's Law:
Any given mechanical job you decide to solve alone will imminently require a third hand, at its most critical moment

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hassyfoto View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hassyfoto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb/19/2017 at 10:18pm
Completed the rear section of rocker panel rust on the driver's side. The rocker panel has three parts, outer panel,inner panel and a center panel. I installed the inner and outer rocker panels a few years back but could not get to the very rear section of the rocker that was under the quarter panel. Well, I can get to it now.  


First I removed the rust metal on the rear of the center rocker panel reinforcement, then I cleaned, sanded, applied primer and painted the inside of the inner rocker and back side of the metal patch. Once everything was dry, I pulled off the masking tape ( I applied masking tape to the flange area and welding area of the metal parts) Then I applied weld-thru primer to all bare metal remaining where any welding or pinch weld areas. 
The center rocker panel is fully welded in place. After cleaning and sanding, primer and paint where applied. Once again, any flange areas or an area that will get welds applied was masked off and weld-thru primer was applied in preparation for installing the lower front quarter panel metal patch.

You can see the yellow tape is covering the the very bottom of the inner rocker, which is the area that the quarter panel patch will be welded upon. So, tape was used to block the primer & paint so weld-thru primer can be applied.

By the way the little strip of metal hanging down in front of the rocker panel(s) on the first photo is what is left of the leading edge of the outer wheel well. I left it attached to the car as reference in space to align the new outer wheel house metal patch and the quarter panel patches ( lower front section and wheel arch section. The metal is thin enough to move easily when I accomplish the next steps of the wheel well & outer wheel well arch. It's just a trick I learned working on cars to help speed up the repair process on alignment of replacement metal panels. Once the new panels are in place cutting off the final rusted metal will be a snap


Preparing the backside of the lower quarter panel patch and a hand made patch that will be the closeout patch for the wheel well side of the end of the rocker panel.

Next step, drill my spot weld holes in the metal patch, a lot of alignment measurements, visual checks and welding.


Edited by hassyfoto - Feb/19/2017 at 10:22pm
Murphy's Law:
Any given mechanical job you decide to solve alone will imminently require a third hand, at its most critical moment

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote hassyfoto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/03/2017 at 3:26pm
Last weekend i got a little further along. I installed the lower front quarter panel patch panel, the outer wheel well patch and the quarter panel wheel opening patch. 



What I did find out, you can order two wheel well opening patches and use one for the outer wheel well and one for the quarter panel. Of course there is a trick and some planning, but it worked out very good. When you install the patch for the outer wheel well, I inserted the patch about 1/8 inch inward of the quarter panel patch location. Yes, I had to temporarily install both patches with clamps &  

Cleco Fasteners,then mark the proper location(s), take it apart and then install the wheel well patch. 

In this photo you can see the offset of using the only available patch, which is made for the quarter panel as a outer wheel well repair patch. I offset this patch panel slightly inward so the other quarter panel patch would fit neatly over top of this and align with the quarter panel sheet metal. After all the patches are installed, I had to come back and trim off the overhanging metal from the pinch weld area of the wheel well opening.
The results were excellent.
Murphy's Law:
Any given mechanical job you decide to solve alone will imminently require a third hand, at its most critical moment

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hassyfoto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/04/2017 at 6:09am
While I was at it, I decided to remove all the undercoat on the inner & outer wheel wells, frame rail and remaining floor pans. I used a flat screwdriver and putty knife that I had slightly sharpened. The process is fairly easy once you get started. It's funny, but the thicker the undercoat the easier it is to get under the material for removal. I just keep pushing the scraper (and screwdriver in small tight places) up under the undercoat. 
I spent about 2 hours scraping and everything was removed. What is left can be sanded off using a 40 or 50 roloc grinding disc. I did use lacquer thinner as my final step to remove any residue of undercoat off the surfaces. Since I planned to sand all remaining paint off the surfaces, what little damage was incurred from the lacquer thinner was removed. 
Cleaned, epoxy primed, and paint will be the next steps after all the metal panels are installed. Last step will be new undercoat or maybe black bed-liner material. I haven't decided yet.
Murphy's Law:
Any given mechanical job you decide to solve alone will imminently require a third hand, at its most critical moment

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LakesideRamblin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/04/2017 at 9:06am
Fantastic work. Part magician, part artist and big part just flat out talent. Congrats on the progress.
LakesideRamblin
69 Rambler 360
73 Javelin 360
"If you could kick the person in the pants responsible for most of your trouble, you wouldn't sit for a month." T. Roosevelt
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hassyfoto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/12/2017 at 8:03pm
This weekend I continued to work on the left quarter panel and trunk floor. The problems were immense, how to tie in the trunk floor, trunk drop-off, outer wheel house and external quarter panel all together. Well! I guess in one way I was lucky that the rust on the rear of the quarter panel was higher than the lower quarter panel patches you can purchase from the AMC vendors. I had to make the rear quarter panel edge (vertical) where the quarter panel edge is next to the bumper and connects to the rear body panel. Since the quarter panel patch did not extend high enough to meet any metal, I made the edge ( 90 degree bend and about 3/8 inch on each side of the bend) to reach down far enough to tie the patch panel back onto the car.
If you look to the left of the large horizontal metal patch, you can see the thin vertical patch I made. It has a few relief cuts to help curve the metal patch to the contour of the car. In this photo from inside the trunk, not all the welding is completed you can see the hand made patch. A lot of tack welds to hold everything together and final welding when all the sheet metal patches are in place.
 By the way, I decided to create my horizontal quarter panel patch with a 3/8 offset flange. I realize most folks now just use the butt joint with gap welding method with the appropriate butt weld clamps and TIG, but I am using a MIG welder. With the high heat of a MIG welder and welding in the center of a quarter panel with no sharp contour or edges, warping is a big problem. By using the overlap method ( and good use of weld-thru primer) the extra crimped edge help me to minimize the warping of the panel.  Some folks with disagree as to my decision to use the overlap metal method due a higher tendency to cause rust issues much quicker than a butt joint but when you clean the metal, use zinc rich weld-thru primer and seam seal the metal after primer, the problems of future rust are minimized. 
 Unfortunately the ground cable is covering up the vertical patch in this photo I made in order to attach the lower rear quarter panel patch. The big help I had here, is the open window in the quarter panel allowed me to work the floor pan metal, the top of the trunk drop-of panel and the outer wheel house metal from the outside of the car. Boy oh boy did that make it a lot easier than working from inside the trunk. I was able to neatly weld all the metal panels together.  The very last patch panel I installed was the center external quarter panel patch panel with the overlapping crimped edges, which was a very slow process to install.
 Cleaned and weld-thru primer applied to the metal patch
Slow & tedious tack welds. This was the method of welding until a solid weld was completed. It was slow, but the metal warping was minimum. The only place I had warping was around the side marker lamp area. The hole for the lamp allowed metal warping to take place more so than anywhere else on the panel.

cut out the rust on the outer wheel house just where all the trunk floor, trunk drop-off, and wheel house metal all comes together.  I used the butt weld method & spot weld method here as I had a pinch weld on one side to help hold everything on place.

Checking to make sure my contours are correct from all angles. I used a poster board template from the other side of the car to double check the contour ( sorry no photo of the template)
I finished welding the external quarter panel. Yahoooooooo!
I still have a long way to go on finishing up the trunk floor welding, but at least it's starting to look like a car again. 

Murphy's Law:
Any given mechanical job you decide to solve alone will imminently require a third hand, at its most critical moment

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