70 AMX BBP shadow mask.

will333 wrote: Go to page 26 of this thread, half way down the page, and you'll see what Scott did to fix mine. Pretty simple fix. http://theamcforum.com/forum/silver-68-the-project-update_topic24442_page26.html?KW=SILVER+68

Thanks much Will, that should solve one issue anyway. I'll have to call Scott and see if he has a piece of that spring left over or the NAPA part number anyway.

bigbad69 wrote: I had my wiper motor restored by Dave Bass and he provided a new eccentric with the motor along with a new backing plate gasket. Obviously he has a source for these parts, so you may want to give him a shout.

Thanks for the lead. How would I contact Dave? The mounting plate gasket is easy. The vendors stock that. What has us stumped is the seal that goes around the wiper motor output shaft and seals the wiper motor to the mounting plate. It is toast but from what we have left of it I would guess it is round with a hole in the center for the motor shaft, about 2 inches across and about 2 inches tall. If all else fails I guess we could use that foam "make a gasket" stuff that comes in a can. The name escapes me right now.

The spring provides friction on the shaft so the eccentric will turn to the park position when the motor reverses rotation to park the wipers. Without the spring, the eccentric usually won't shift, leaving the wipers "parked" about 3" too high on the windshield.

The foam seal for the center shaft comes with the gasket .  They are on ebay all the time for $5.00

Chuck Page

Got sidetracked for a while but here goes. I did clean up the wiper eccentric before we installed it. Looks much better than my last picture. I hate putting dirty parts back on a car.

 

Now I do have to apologize for not taking more pictures while rebuilding the heater box. I got on a roll and when I finished up it dawned on me I forgot pictures. I did manage to snap a few after the fact.

The new foam seal for the blend door fit nicely. I did not remove the blend door to apply the foam. I reached in through the fan opening. It was a little awkward but it saved having to drill out the rivets to get at the blend door. I reached in through the core opening to glue the bump strip on the back of the blend door.



I did drill out the six rivets and removed the metal back plate to get at the defrost door. Again, I forgot to get pictures until after I put it back in. Bottom line the instruction were great in the DMT kit and were easy to follow.

I did have one do over. The pivot point for the defrost door in the metal back plate is a nylon bushing. Don't forget to put that back BEFORE you reassembly the heater box. Enough said about that. Duh!



Next big pain in the sitting region. The heater core. The old core has wrap around plates top and bottom to which a high density foam is applied. This holds the core into place in the heater box. Well the only replacement core available does not have these plates. I check with several of the vendors and got the same answer. This is the only replacement core that is available. You just have to make do. We used a grinder to remove the tab off the top of the new core and stuffed in extra high density foam to fill the extra space along the other end.

If this project was not on such a tight budget I would have taken the core to a radiator shop and have them un-solder the old plates and solder them to the new core. The heater cores, minus the plates, match in size in spite of how they may look in the pictures.

The so called "only available core" is the same one used in the big body Javelins and the extra tab at the top is where it is held in place in the heater box with a screw on that car.





The engine bay is shaping up. I have misgivings about the radiator though. It appears to be some kind of after market replacement. I don't have an extensive background on AMXs so I don't know for sure if this McCord radiator was original or if it should be a Blackstone. I suspect Blackstone would be correct. This is what the owner supplied but it is a two row and for the 390 engine with no fan shroud I think there are going to be heat issues. The best we could do was make the owner aware of our concerns.

The owner is using their propane grill to heat and cure the coating they are using on the stock exhaust manifolds. Those will be next on the punch list to be installed. Clever idea but remind me not to have any burgers cooked on that grill.



Jim bent up new trans cooler lines. The McCord radiator does not extend all the way to the bottom of the fan blades. The fan blades extend a fraction beyond the bottom of the radiator. This made it tricky to bend in the center trans cooler line. Jim had to put a 90 fitting on the center fitting and angle the center line in from the drivers side.

I am not too sure I want to be involved with low budget builds in the future. At least not this low budget anyway.



The interior is moving along. The fire wall insulation blanket is in, the cowl insulation is in, and if you notice the wires, the wiper motor is in and the wires are fished inside. The cowl insulation was a bit of a good news bad news issue. The good news is the insulation is all die cut to fit the cowl. The bad news is you get no pictures or diagrams to go with it. It was like doing a big jig saw puzzle trying to figure out which of the three pieces fit where. Not to mention trying to get it all in place with the glue trying to stick in all the wrong places, which includes fingers. The parts book and the TSM do not cover this particular item.



The wiring harness should arrive from the vendor next Tuesday. It is a generic "Painless" type of harness and includes a new fuse box which uses mini fuses. If you have ever priced reproduction wire harnesses you will know why the owner wants to go this route.

Again, I do apologize for not getting more detailed pictures of the heater box rebuild.

More to follow.


Edited by pit crew - Sep/29/2017 at 8:31pm