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69 SC Journey

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george w View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote george w Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/30/2018 at 8:37pm
Sure looks like the starter factory black finish was very hit or miss. Probably varied from unit to unit, shift to shift or day to day and any combination thereof. You know this sort of thing didn't matter back in those days. Would you agree though that the engine color had to be sprayed on when the starter was already installed on the engine so the nose would not have received engine color. We know for sure that the 390's with the chrome valve covers were sprayed with the covers in place. Word has it that there were temporary covers placed over the chrome covers when the engines were painted. Most 390's I've ever seen including my first 69 that I bought new had some engine color around the edges of the covers.
Long time AMC fan. Ambassador 343, AMX 390, Hornet 360, Spirit 304 and Javelin 390. All but javelin bought new.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/30/2018 at 8:52pm
I found this regarding early Ford starters - before AMC, but still, it explains why we see what we see as far as the NOSE of the drive end being plain but the rest being painted and if fits what I have been finding as I have been more careful about detecting original finishes on original starters (those I know are original)

Anyway, this relates to FORD starters used on fords - the gloss paint was since replaced with more of a semi-gloss
Also - the starters used in the AMCs were not cast iron - but this makes a lot of sense as far as how things happened at FORD - 

>>The starter was painted gloss black as an assembly. Thus the cover band, part number 18-10142A, cover band screw, part number 27169-S4, and the nut, part number 34141-S2, were all gloss black. The face of the front plate and the starter drive were “hidden” on a dedicated assembly line, so they remained in their natural (raw) finish. The copper terminal post, along with its 33923-S hex nut and 34846-S lock washer, was masked. As a result they did not get painted. 
The body of the starter was cast iron while both end plates were aluminum. Two through bolts, part number 18-11091, and two lock washers, part number 34906-S, held the starter assembly together.  <<
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kcsamc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/01/2018 at 10:58pm
Bill, great pictures. Boy you can see from some of those pictures the reason for my questions on the nose cone, "barely there" black paint!
Kevin Shope
1964 Classic 660
1964 Amb. 990H
A-Scheme SC/Rambler
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kcsamc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/12/2018 at 10:50pm
The progress continues...

Last weekend, dad was down for several days and we reshot the last of the charcoal pieces that the new paint can ruined with bad flattening suede additive (the paint looked like we shot it over beach sand back in March...).  At least now all those pieces are done and I can finish steering column assembly now.

The starter is detailed and ready for motor color overshoot at final detailing.

This past week was a big deal getting ready for pin striping.  I had May 10th off as a holiday, so I pre-scheduled the pin stripe artist to come that day.  As part of prep I needed to get the doors latching.  While dad was here - I gave him the job of polishing every NOS door handle I had collected over the years - ended up being (9) total!  LOL (I do have two other cars that use them, so...).  It was cool to look at all that chrome:



The fun thing with NOS, is that they are never perfect - always an imperfection somewhere - but we pulled two really nice ones from this stash.

Joe Long, from Lancaster, PA arrived Thursday to do the straightline striping.  This sort of work is rarely called for anymore, as he usually does curvy motor cycles or other street rod striping.  The thick edging of this job was also a curve ball for him, but I really think he appreciated the opportunity to do this car.  At 72, Joe had no trouble crawling around the car, but he sure hated doing the ends of the front fenders.  A good number of bleeped comments while freehanding the curves of the front!!!  As a bonus for Joe, we still have FASTNASH's reference car on hand to show him how the factory did the SC/R's.  I am happy with the look.  Remember when you see it - hand pin striping is not supposed to be perfect - just look close at an all original SC/R.  I could have taped off the car and sprayed on the black stripe for a WHOLE lot less money but I believe these cars deserve to get an authentic appearance that you can't get any other way.





My JetHot coated exhaust parts arrived on my birthday this past week - which was fun!  It is nice to have that expense behind me and some nice hardware for the engine ready to bolt on.  The ported internals looked great under ceramic coat.  The NOS flanges were coated in slightly different finish to get close to the bare metal look.






Teardown discovery this week focused on the left front spring assembly.  Careful undercoat and grime removal unveiled just enough of the faint paint ID markings to be able to confirm some others' findings and to document for redetailing this week.  Light blue paint marks and an orange-red paint part on a few coils (outlined below with marking pencil).  





For the red - my old can of engine red for the 327 Ambo. engine will work perfectly - test matched in above photo.  I picked up a bottle of Testers light blue at AC Moore this past week for a decent blue match.  The spring got painted up through black tonight so color splash in the next day or so.

I wanted to get the fan detailed soon, so I got it pulled out.  Upon inquiring with another forum member here on suspicion I got a sturn warning on not to bead blast the stainless flex blades or it will ruin the temper.  So doing flex fans is a pain in the butt and a time drain.  I used paint stripper on the stainless blades, finished scraping them with a razor blade and then scuffed with a scuff pad to thoroughly clean them.  Then I had to tape off every square inch of the blades before going into the blast cabinet to get the regular steel portions cleaned and de-rusted, then unmask....Confused

(Masking mid-process above)

Finally it was time tonight to get the eclectic mix of parts into the spray booth for epoxy coat!


This week, I finally took the time to finish the restoration of the left disc brake dust shield.  This one turned out really nice - now bullet proof with a double powder coat in semi-gloss black.  No rust pits - looking just like "summer of '69"!



Over 7 hours in just this part!!!



Edited by kcsamc - May/12/2018 at 10:54pm
Kevin Shope
1964 Classic 660
1964 Amb. 990H
A-Scheme SC/Rambler
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 348AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/16/2018 at 5:02pm
you really need to get this car featured in a magazine or automotive show like Jay Leno's garage when its done!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CamJam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/16/2018 at 6:29pm

I've said it before, but this is one awesome restoration!

BTW, I media blasted my fan-- blades and all-- three years ago and have had no issues.
'69 Big Bad Orange AMX 390
'72 Baja Bronze Javelin SST
'70 Opel GT
'07 BMW 335i
'13 Ford Focus ST
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