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69 SC Journey

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george w View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote george w Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/29/2018 at 5:50pm
Can't tell from the pics, is the carpet cut pile or loop ? Should not have a dimmer switch grommet.
Long time AMC fan. Ambassador 343, AMX 390, Hornet 360, Spirit 304 and Javelin 390. All but javelin bought new.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kcsamc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/29/2018 at 7:12pm
George, carpet is cut pile.  Kit was a 1993 Hillick's supplied replacement.
Kevin Shope
1964 Classic 660
67 Rogue 290-4V 4spd Conv
A-Scheme SC/Rambler (69 SC JOURNEY)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kcsamc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Dec/31/2018 at 8:44pm
For my last post of 2018, I am kicking of a series of my "TOP TEN LISTS" from the build.  Hopefully this will be fun and educational.

The first completed list:

MY TOP TEN FAVORITE TOOLS OR SUPPLIES

 

10.  EASTWOOD FENDER HANDCRIMPING TOOL – When replacing an SC/R front fender, if you

want to keep it original, you need to figure out a way to re-roll the lip.  This tool from Eastwood is the only legitimate tool that can be used.  Not easy on the hands to use, but it will get the job done with patience.  I was just happy that someone made a solution at a home shop price.  This can only be used on front fenders - will not do the double layer rears.

 

9.   HARBOR FREIGHT HVLP SPRAY GUNS – I am careful on what I use from HF, but after my dad

picked up one of those purple colored HVLP guns and I tried it to spray the high solids 2K primer, I was sold.  For the price, you cannot beat their performance, and you don’t need to screw up a good gun just shooting primer.  I later bought their top of the line (chromed) gun for shooting the secondary parts with urethane topcoat – any paint issues were primarily the gun holder’s fault… LOL

 

8.  UTECH 500 SINGLE STAGE URETHANE TOPCOAT – for my black “underhood” paints, I used

this brand of urethane as a good cost sensitive solution.  My local shop has some good mixes for “super flat”, and 80% gloss applications that matched what I was looking for.

 

7.  SEYMOUR STAINLESS STEEL SPRAY BOMB – this is the closest overall match to bare steel you

will get in a simulation spray.  Rustoleum makes a nice product, but for some reason the Seymour paint lay gives you a better “sell” on the bare metal look as you rotate the part and look at it.  The downside of this product that keeps it down the list – one can will spray “dry and grainy” and the next will be nice and smooth….  I usually overcoated with a good satin clear to protect.

 

6.  EASTWOOD PAINT PREP SPRAY CAN – although it is nothing more than wax/tar remover solvent

in aerosol form, it is cost effective enough when on sale, to use to spray down parts out of the blast cabinet, or after sanding parts for next shot of paint.  A convenient product when prepping parts.

 

5.  EASTWOOD POWDER COAT GUN / BAKE OVEN – spending time at the Eastwood Store talking

to the product developers made the leap into this process/product seem a bit easier.  Considering the cost to have a local shop do my parts, this product has more than paid for itself on this first project alone, and after some trial and error I have been able to get great results.  The semi-gloss black powder from Eastwood is a direct match with the AMC underhood black gloss level and the Seymour semi-gloss black.

 

4.  EASTWOOD TIN-ZINC PLATING KIT – for the money, this kit is worth its weight in gold.  I didn’t

use it as my primary hardware replating source.  I sent 85% of my hardware out for pro plating services.  What you need this for are those parts that a plating house won’t touch, or for those emergency items at re-assembly time that you need a part instantly refinished (i.e. rear seat belt bolts, carb rod for me).  I was delighted to use this kit on multi-material components like:  headlight switch pull knob (shaft), seat release knob (base), and exhaust pipe hangers (having rubber-metal mix).  Of course you can plate all your hardware if you like, but it will take a while.

 

3.  A FULL SAE TAP & DIE SET – simply said, a must tool for restoration work.  You can’t buy 100%

of the hardware NOS or exact reproduction, so hardware has to be restored.  Recommended tool before you even start an old car project.

 

2.  A DREMEL (with all the bits available!) – by far the most versatile tool ever made, got me out of so

many jams and provided so many solutions to tough to do projects.  It was definitely my go to tool when the going got tough!

 

1.  MY HANDBUILT ROTISSIERE – I bought $11 plans from ebay and invested $500 worth of steel

and hardware, plus a lot of cut/drill/weld time, but all well worth it, and made the project SO MUCH better and easier in the end.  It was even versatile enough to lift and lower the front of the car like a jack to install the motor/trans from underneath with no cherrypicker needed!

Kevin Shope
1964 Classic 660
67 Rogue 290-4V 4spd Conv
A-Scheme SC/Rambler (69 SC JOURNEY)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Aadams90 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/02/2019 at 8:41pm
Great build thread
1970 amx, 1970 mark donohue javelin, 1932 ford Vicky, 1933 Plymouth coupe, 1934 Plymouth roadster
Looking for 70 amx number A0m397x102150
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SC/3.00 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/10/2019 at 4:41pm
Fantastic! I mostly come here on occasion to check in on this car. I'm so happy to see it through completion!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote thmil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/05/2019 at 2:05pm
Hi Kevin, Once again, great job. 
Now for the lead up to my question concerning the hater box resto. I have just completed my heater box restoration with the DMT kit.  Now I have a couple of things I’m wondering about. 
First is the thick soft rubber anti-rattle strips for the heater core. The kit shows them  glued on the top of the heater core with rubber cement and then bending over to the side. I don’t understand why they would do that and I just slid mine in along the side of the heater core and it seems to fit just fine. 
What do you think, does it matter?  
Number two. 
The thick charcoal foam for top of heater core to cowl seal. To me it looks like the seal is a little too long as it overhangs each side of the heater box flange.  The flange is about 10 inches long but the seal is 11 inches long. It seems logical that the seal would fit inside the flange and not overhang it. I asked DMT about it but never heard back. I’m assuming that you got the same kit I did for the 67/69  rambler Rambler  and installed it as is. 
Don’t you think it should fit inside the flange,? 
I’m  considering cutting it so it will fit within the flange. 
What do you think?
Tim
Heater box to cowl seal
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kcsamc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/05/2019 at 10:32pm
Originally posted by thmil thmil wrote:

Hi Kevin, Once again, great job. 
Now for the lead up to my question concerning the hater box resto. I have just completed my heater box restoration with the DMT kit.  Now I have a couple of things I’m wondering about. 
First is the thick soft rubber anti-rattle strips for the heater core. The kit shows them  glued on the top of the heater core with rubber cement and then bending over to the side. I don’t understand why they would do that and I just slid mine in along the side of the heater core and it seems to fit just fine. 
What do you think, does it matter?  
Number two. 
The thick charcoal foam for top of heater core to cowl seal. To me it looks like the seal is a little too long as it overhangs each side of the heater box flange.  The flange is about 10 inches long but the seal is 11 inches long. It seems logical that the seal would fit inside the flange and not overhang it. I asked DMT about it but never heard back. I’m assuming that you got the same kit I did for the 67/69  rambler Rambler  and installed it as is. 
Don’t you think it should fit inside the flange,? 
I’m  considering cutting it so it will fit within the flange. 
What do you think?
Tim
Heater box to cowl seal

I think there are a few pictures of my finished box on one of these pages.  I think I finished my box almost 4 years ago now, and don't recall the finer details anymore - I don't remember any major issues.  I think the anti-rattle strips I used on the sides and then down in under the core on the ledge.  The top foam is to seal to the cowl opening so it needs to sit on the top ledge to do that, not too much down inside.  Hope this helps, but its been a bit to long in the past of the build to remember that - guess I didn't see it as a big deal back then.
Kevin Shope
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67 Rogue 290-4V 4spd Conv
A-Scheme SC/Rambler (69 SC JOURNEY)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kcsamc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/05/2019 at 10:34pm
I plan on providing an update to the storyline this weekend as we gear up for its next big event, Concours of America in Plymouth, MI on July 28.  For anyone in the region that wanted to see the car, this will probably be the last time into the mid-west for a little while with the car.
Kevin Shope
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kcsamc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/06/2019 at 10:21pm
OK, time to catch up on projects for the car.  The last major project update was way back after MCACN 2018.  At that time, the holidays were upon us, and I needed to just put the car cover on the car and walk away from it for a while.  I developed my list of things to do and slowly worked on them through the winter, but typical for me, I really don't like second rounds on any project and I put off doing necessary elements longer than I should.  Over the cold months I worked on planning our bucket list trip to CA, and scanned all my SC/R related documentation for a show book, and made up a picture book of the restoration.  I guess in hindsight I needed the time away from the car, and it was good to change gears.

During this time, I did manage to tear down the front calipers again to determine what to do with the brake bleeders not sealing off on my restored original calipers.  Getting them off and on the bench, it was clear that I needed to have new machining done on each bleeder face:



I wanted to look the guy in the eye that did the work this time, so I went to our highly recommended speed machine shop, and we developed a plan to purchase some 82deg counterbore tool cutters (original taper is closer to 70 deg), and he would touch off on the face, and then put a handful of new bleeders on the lathe and match them up.  Once cut, he used some tool bluing to test the mating surface and got a very good indication off the bluing that we had solved it.





There was a minor consequence to doing this.  On (1) of the calipers I had to counterbore the opening a little bit with a drill so that the main body of the bleeder wouldn't bottom out on the spot face before sealing off, but I didn't need to do much to get it to work.  These calipers definitely won't take another one of these mods before they are junk.

One of my winter time projects was sourcing really good fender covers for working on the car.  The tops of the front fenders are very easy to dent and I wanted something that wouldn't just cover the paint - but keep my big gut from doing any harm to the paint job.  After some research I decided that the NETCORE ENTERPRISES Model RLB-D fender covers were the hands down best.  With full fleece lining and doubled on top and magnetic holders, there is nothing that compare to them.  They are not cheap and are made to order, but this was one of those products that I was VERY pleased with when it came to the door - I recommend these to everyone.  Save your pennies and buy these - you won't be disappointed:





As most SC/R owners were patiently waiting for the new repop "ROGUE" door panel emblems, I too was waiting for mine, but time had run out as the MCACN date came and I needed to put something on the doors.  Thankfully we had a backup plan to use the prototype repops as a temporary tack on item at the show, but as soon as the official repops were ready, it was time to install the permanent versions.  AMARK did a great job in a faithful reproduction.  SC/R owners should not wait to get a pair of these for their cars as you don't know when they will go out of production again!  This spring, mine went on quickly with some double sided tape:




Due to the brake issues in November and the time crunch leading up to MCACN, we decided to not start the car before the show.  While it took us longer to get around to doing the start up than we thought, it was good, as I found out that used the wrong clamps on the smaller heater hoses between the engine and heater core.  One of our members here had the Wittek #7s that are correct (but super rare), and I got them installed before filling the system with fluid:




Now we are more correct!

I had run out of time as I mentioned above, so the car was shown at MCACN with nothing under the distributor cap (that's how I kept Ian and Rich was starting it at the showLOL).  This spring I spent the time installing the M&H single wire electronic ignition package for DelcoRemy distributors.  Pretty nice system, and the cap covers the only modification:





Spring seemed to come and go all too quickly and the car had still not been started.  I needed to get the brakes bled out, we had a long vacation trip and FASTNASH had a tow vehicle motor to build and the Connecticut Concours to attend with his SC/R, so we finally got together on the last day of June to bring the beast to life!  The night before, I filled the engine with new VR1 racing oil and anitfreeze and got ready for the big day:



As the plans developed, I invited a few other guests over to witness the rebirth.  The original owner, Bill K. lives just 5 - 6 miles south of me and he jumped at the chance to come:



Larry Blatt had been anxiously awaiting the startup day and with the great weather, decided to drive the SC/R's big brother - his famous X code '67 Rogue to give the SC/R a little encouragement to wake up from its 43 year sleep.



The video clips from the startup run are edited together here for a 3 minute youtube video.  While it ultimately started up and ran fine (the motor itself already had 1.5hrs on the test stand), it took a second try at getting the distributor set in just right, and after much cranking, we determined that the NOS 266 B-R DelcoRemy Coil was not capable of throwing enough juice to start the car.  After robbing the coil from my 64 990H, and temporarily setting it up on the engine, the SC roared to life.  The moment recorded for history:


This past week I was off sourcing another coil for the car so we could finish setting up the timing / etc, and decided to just go out and get a GM reproduction coil.  The 1115266 coil is obsolete and the later superceeding number 1115238 can be had via a Corvette restoration parts dealer.  However, I found that GM must not want the repops to match the originals Angry.  They flipped the polarity on the coils on the repops and I had to rotate the coil 180 deg to allow the wiring harness to reach the coil.  That means that the script on the top is rotated, and the all important embossed letters are facing the firewall.  Great job GM - your don't even get an "E" for effort on this one......Confused


Repop (left)       NOS original (right)

Right now I am chasing a few small fix-it projects on the car and getting ready to install the holy grail on the car:



The above tach had been waiting patiently for me to save up a few bucks after the build, so I used an incorrect but nice looking tach for MCACN.  I picked this one up in May and over the next week it will get installed in the car and everything wired up correctly.

Plans for the next couple weeks are to get the car functional enough to motivate under its own power to attend the Concours at St. Johns, in Plymouth, MI on July 28.  If you are planning on going, let me know!


Edited by kcsamc - Jul/06/2019 at 10:31pm
Kevin Shope
1964 Classic 660
67 Rogue 290-4V 4spd Conv
A-Scheme SC/Rambler (69 SC JOURNEY)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve_P Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul/22/2019 at 10:58am
I haven't checked on this thread in a while and just finished it. Great work; for sure one of the nicest AMCs in existence.

So, what are your plans for the car? Are you going to drive it any? It's too nice to drive, but since you installed the electronic module instead of points...

Years ago, I also noticed the redline width was too wide on the reproduction tires. I'm not sure if they're all like this, and still like this today, but some definitely are too wide. I don't know why they can't get this right. Same with the Delco coil- that's crazy that the polarity is reversed. They used that coil on a lot of generic cars and I pulled a few from a junkyard ~20 yrs ago; I wish I got every one because they're easy to restore to look like new.
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