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69 SC Journey |
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69BBB3904spAMX 
AMC Addicted 
Charter Member Joined: Jun/29/2007 Location: San Jose, CA Status: Offline Points: 2761 |
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 Posted: Jul/04/2018 at 1:02pm |
 If not judged, maybe a display only at Pebble Beach? Regarding judging, if you entered an AMO show to be judged, you would have to go into Junior Stock the 1st year before you could go for the top award the 2nd year. This level of restoration reinforces the unfairness of the junior stock rule for a restoration of this caliber.
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37 Ford Tudor 60 hp V8 flathead, all original, never restored
69BBB3904spAMX 70 Camaro 1st car 74 Hornet Hatch 6 cyl floor/auto 2007,2008,2009 PT Cruisers Aluminum Deck Car Trailer |
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kcsamc
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Joined: Sep/03/2011 Location: Denver, PA Status: Offline Points: 1974 |
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Posted: Jul/04/2018 at 10:23pm |
I haven't ruled out AACA, since Fall Hershey is only 33 miles up 322 from me, but in reality, its kind of a rubber stamp on our AMC cars - they have to judge more on quality vs true knowledge on these cars. Plus I already did the impossible through AACA with my 64 Classic - got a Senior level award with it 8 years after partially restoring it for a grand total of $1452, and got to attend a Grand National show with it. Being able to get that level on the super cheap would make this time around not feel like much of a challenge with doing a full nut and bolt job. Magazines if they come my way will be welcome as they fit the goal for the car by promoting the brand, and reaching out to the next generation through media.
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billd
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Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Posted: Jul/05/2018 at 8:50am |
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Kevin - quality requires some knowledge of the car. Any fool can paint it, but can they paint only the parts that should be or paint with the correct finish for the era, can they use the correct rivets?
To me TRUE quality requires some knowledge of THAT car and you have done your research for sure. I actually came through to ask - and I know I could read 87 pages and get the answer, do you have the original starter for/on the car, with the correct part number, date code, etc.? Maybe you had the original, I can't recall seeing, I'm just curious. |
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kcsamc
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Joined: Sep/03/2011 Location: Denver, PA Status: Offline Points: 1974 |
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Posted: Jul/05/2018 at 11:46am |
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Had to source a good core for a starter - got the correct part number unit - don't think I ever looked for a date code - hard enough to find the part number.
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billd
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Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Posted: Jul/05/2018 at 12:41pm |
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What's the build date of your car, as close as you know? (or maybe I have it written down somewhere)
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kcsamc
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Joined: Sep/03/2011 Location: Denver, PA Status: Offline Points: 1974 |
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Posted: Jul/05/2018 at 1:20pm |
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Right around May 21. A starter would have been March or April most likely.
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billd
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Posted: Jul/05/2018 at 3:00pm |
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OK, then March or April 1969. Will keep eyes open. I've come close looking through things but not that close.
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kcsamc
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Joined: Sep/03/2011 Location: Denver, PA Status: Offline Points: 1974 |
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Posted: Jul/14/2018 at 10:37pm |
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The number of items on the project list that need hours and hours of effort doesn't seem to be diminishing. Tonight we have a progress report, plus a little how too mixed in from today's sub-project efforts.
Over the past two weeks, the floor sound deadener/thermal barrier was completed - glad that's done, and thanks to Eric for the help in positioning and laying down the sheets. Glad this one is off the list:  A number of countless small projects were crossed off the list too, too many to remember or list here. Thanks to Rusty Small, we got the delivery of the Goodyear redlines this week, and so now I need to start the wheel project - lots of blasting after a trueness check on the wheels. BTW, Kelsey Tires is running a special on shipping right now - call Rusty now to capitalize on the deal. I was planning on meeting up with him at Gettysburg Olds show at the beginning of August to pickup - but free shipping just free'd up another Saturday - bonus! Last Saturday I had the perfect opportunity to shoot some black semi-gloss single stage on some suspension / engine bay parts with a temp in the 70s and humidity in the low 40s - paint went on nice, and yes I got a good looking sag in the flex fan that could double for a paint dipped run - so everyone should be happy with that. Flex fans are a pain in the butt to get even paint on... I love redoing the fan on my '64 Classic 196 - its a two piece four blade fan - like painting two lawn mower blades! These 7 blade fans are tough! Also learned that sanding a fan and fan shroud is no fun either - con your son to sand those...   The fan shroud almost turned out too good... Gloss level looks good but the paint really flowed out nice with the weather quality - will look good hanging in the the bay! If things go well, the motor will be arriving in the next week or so. Time to prep the shop for engine - tranny build up and get ready to install the assembly as soon as possible. This morning before it got hot, we moved the "Ian built" T10 and engine stand to the lower shop bay #3. The car is consuming the entire downstairs now and half the upstairs with parts everywhere!  Over the past 2 days, I've been working on the right vent window frame assembly. Work on this goes back to last year when I had the frames at Restoration Specialties for felt replacement. This is an often overlooked part of our Ramblers' restorations, but fresh felts make the windows glide smoother and the full black fuzzy groove gives a fresh and comprehensive look to the restoration. The second step of this restoration required thorough cleaning of the very good original vent wing rubber, and stainless polishing, as well as a few small rubber tear repairs with DAP glue. The third step of the restoration required me to hand modify the tiny tiny screws that hold the wing pivot hinge to the inside of the frame. AMC loved to put one size smaller heads on their screws, primarily on interior items - they call those Jacobson heads. This makes life difficult finding correct replacements. I can say with certainty that the (2) screws for the wing pivot hinge no longer exist and since I had to drill the heads out of the originals because they were rusted in place, I was now off on a 3 hour journey Friday night with my dremel and series of grinding heads to drop the size and taper on the stainless screws I did find in at least the correct thread and length.  The screw length on this little guy made it extra hard, but after many test fittings I got a pretty good fitting screw. Photo below shows before and after on modifying a screw to fit. I don't know what I'd do without my dremel! I think this screw will be a reproduction project in 2019, and I would strongly encourage every 63-66 big car and 64-69 American owner to stock up on them, as you don't want to spend your time doing what I am doing. I still have to modify 2 more so that will be 6 hours invested - not fun....  Step four in the wing vent restoration was replacing the wing glass frame with an NOS unit. Over the years I was fortunate to pick up a lot of NOS parts, and so having a glass frame in NOS, gives me the opportunity to freshen up the chrome pivot pocket with new, as well as the frame pivot on these like to rust and eventually break just inside the rubber area. Mine was severely weakened due to rust. However, this process is not easy.... when I had the felts getting done at Restoration Specialties I consulted with them on how to do this. They don't do the service (now I know why!), but they do sell the material. It is special "tar" paper based product of particular thickness to be used for the channel/glass width. Our vent wings need 0.050" thick window sealer. I got a few yards of it to do my projects here. Getting the glass out of the old unit is the first challenge - I used a paint stick and kept tapping it until it started moving - you have to be patient with this - doesn't happen right away - stay at it...  Next, while it is out - you need to polish the glass. I use the Eastwood kit that I bought years ago. Works pretty well.  Cut the new pieces of the "tar" sealer. I learned a lot by doing this. I thought it was important to try to get the material to size. It is not - it actually makes for a pain in the butt if you do. Just oversize it and trim with a razor blade when done - don't fuss with making good template replacement pieces. Just relieve the edges a little where it goes into the bottom corner as too much material folds up there.  The original was a singular piece. I had to make separate pieces at the handle pivot spot due to material size. This makes it a little more challenging, but not impossible. Factory stuck a little ductseal or butyl sealer in the bottom of the frame channel in the gap between inserts that stick up in the channel - I did the same to help the overall sealing:  Fold the material in half and get a little crease in it to get it to fit into the metal channel. Dry fit to make sure its big enough and fits. Take it back out and rub on a small amount of motor oil - just enough to activate the material surface - not shiney wet.  Good luck now.... Set the material in the metal channel evenly everywhere and begin to insert the clean glass into the channel. Watch for material that buckles in the channel as the glass sides in. Fingers, glass and channel will start getting sticky black. You may have to tap the glass with a rubber mallet to get the last 1/4" to go. Make sure the material evenly covers, then begin careful trimming with a not so sharp razor blade - it will cut easy - leave a 1/32 to 1/16" overflush like the factory did in most places. Photo below after my first war with this process, I think I learned enough to make it a bit easier next time...  I had black smears everywhere and all over my hands. After cleaning everything with wax and tar remover I got to see the payoff. Fortunate to have all NOS parts to put back on the window wing as far as chrome is concerned, so these pieces will look great and vent wing assembly will look factory fresh when installed here very soon!   I will get started on the left side soon, which actually has a different set of challenges than the right side did, but not easier.... I actually got a complete wing window NOS for the left side (glass + frame) so I don;t have to do the tar sealer job on that one! Edited by kcsamc - Jul/14/2018 at 10:50pm |
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billd
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Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Posted: Jul/14/2018 at 11:19pm |
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Believe it or not I have chucked screws and nuts and bolts up in my lathe and turned them to size and shape. If not stainless, I then replate them. I recently had to make a screw with a number 1 philips head have a smaller diameter and taper for a jig I have, so I chucked it up and CAREFULLY and slowly turned it to size. It's tough on those really small ones. I've had to cut nuts down, too, when a standard nut was taller than original, then chamfer the edge a bit and replate them.
Try chucking up a small screw, not crushing threads, and taking a bite so small with the bit that it doesn't catch and rip the screw out of the chuck. You have to be a bit OCD to make it happen........ or crazy, one or the other, or both. I would almost bet I have screws that are correct - I have collected hardware for almost 50 years and have coffee cans, drawers, peanut butter jars, full of various screws and my Dad saved cans of them from his projects over the years. |
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bcsideshow
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Joined: May/19/2010 Location: Kenosha Status: Offline Points: 1226 |
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Posted: Jul/15/2018 at 8:19am |
I don't have a lathe but have chucked them up in my drill press. Work well to turn diameters down. Kevin, your work is awe inspiring! This post needs to be made into a book!
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1969 SCRambler "B"
1970 AMX 390 Auto 1968 AMX 390 Auto 1970 Rebel Machine Project 1969 AMX 390 4SPD Project 1969 AMX 390 Auto Project 1969 Javelin 390 project 1997 Cherokee lifted 1998 TJ Lifted |
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pacerman wrote: