Your donations help keep this valuable resource free and growing. Thank you.
|
69 SC Journey |
Post Reply | Page <1 8384858687 95> |
Author | ||
kcsamc
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/03/2011 Location: Denver, PA Status: Offline Points: 1974 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Sorry guys - I can't afford to waste that much 2 part urethane to dip the fan in! LOL It will get a spray gun 80% gloss coat shortly!
|
||
scott
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/10/2007 Location: Wildwood Pa. Status: Offline Points: 3502 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I've heard paint dipped parts were done with very little actual paint. Supposedly they would have a large tank filled with water, then float a thin layer of paint on top of the water. Next the parts were slowly lowered into the tank, thru the paint, then pulled out. The paint would stick to the part, & the water would stay off the part. Not sure if this is true or not, I've never tried it myself.
|
||
billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
That process could only coat one side of a simple part, and complex parts would see some areas missed, but wet. If you laid in a pretty flat or simple part I could see it - but the paint on the surface of the water hits the first thing that comes down in that exact spot, at those coordinates, anything later gets only water because the paint is gone.
Now sure how that could work................. How about a round metal rod - laying flat the bottom contacts the paint but what about the top part of the rod? |
||
billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
So did I - 12 years and 8 thousand miles ago. Steel doesn't work-harden like copper, brass, etc. so I wasn't really concerned about it. |
||
billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I just did an all-original starter from June, 1968 - black under the blue but the black was really really thin and they missed some areas. I used solvents, acetone and razor blades on this one, too. The info I posted earlier about Ford/Autolite/Motorcraft starters was actually from well before 1970 so if they were not painted prior to 68 then it was done special that way for AMC - because those that went on Ford cars were indeed black. I have some from after 1970, also black under the gunk. When this month is over I'll pull some off the shelf and dig into the ones before and after 68-70 to confirm. |
||
Steve_P
AMC Addicted Charter Member Joined: Jun/28/2007 Status: Offline Points: 3808 |
Post Options
Thanks(1)
|
|
On blasting the fan, yes be careful. But no way you'll affect the temper with a siphon blaster. You'd have to exceed 300F- and your gloves would melt way before that point. And you'd have 3rd degree burns Underhood temps can exceed 200F which isn't an issue.
We had two dip lines at a place I worked and it was all paint, not paint floated on water. I've heard you can reproduce it with paint on water though. I just threw that out as an FYI, no one is going to waste $1000 of paint on a fan |
||
billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I strongly doubt any ordinary blast cabinet will hurt a fan. Destruction of parts by blasting is almost always pressure and industrial blasters. My compressor came from a business that blasted car parts of all kinds including body parts. I even blasted hood and other parts of my 70 with no far or damage. I once painted a 1950 1 ton chevy pickup that had been 100% blasted to remove all paint and most rust. No warping or damage.
Wahoo.....sort of have some slow internet for a while in fairbanks! Just put some heavy drip spots on the fan to make it appear dipped......... |
||
69BBB3904spAMX
AMC Addicted Charter Member Joined: Jun/29/2007 Location: San Jose, CA Status: Offline Points: 2761 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
Kevin, you have been so meticulous are recreating every factory procedure and markings during your restoration. Here is an idea for your fan; Get a shallow bowl wide enough to fit one fan blade tip at a time. Get your paint mixed into your spray gun and ready to spray. Pour enough paint into the bowl to fill the bowl about 1" deep. Dip the tip of each blade of the fan into the bowl, then immediately hang up the fan and spray away. Let the drips fall as they may.
|
||
37 Ford Tudor 60 hp V8 flathead, all original, never restored
69BBB3904spAMX 70 Camaro 1st car 74 Hornet Hatch 6 cyl floor/auto 2007,2008,2009 PT Cruisers Aluminum Deck Car Trailer |
||
billd
Moderator Group Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
When I restore isolation diodes I often spray to run and then hang them so the paint runs to one end and begins to form a heavy spot but not quite to drip. They were dipped originally - the output bolt and nut were masked with tape, they were dipped then when dry they were machined for electrical contact with the nuts below the heat sink when installed.
|
||
kcsamc
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/03/2011 Location: Denver, PA Status: Offline Points: 1974 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
|
|
I'm sure with the single stage urethane I won't have any trouble getting the obligatory "factory" run somewhere on that odd shaped fan!
|
||
Post Reply | Page <1 8384858687 95> |
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |