69 SC Journey

Sorry guys - I can't afford to waste that much 2 part urethane to dip the fan in!  LOL   It will get a spray gun 80% gloss coat shortly!

That process could only coat one side of a simple part, and complex parts would see some areas missed, but wet. If you laid in a pretty flat or simple part I could see it - but the paint on the surface of the water hits the first thing that comes down in that exact spot, at those coordinates, anything later gets only water because the paint is gone.
Now sure how that could work.................
How about a round metal rod - laying flat the bottom contacts the paint but what about the top part of the rod?

Steve_P wrote: george w wrote: Sure looks like the starter factory black finish was very hit or miss. Probably varied from unit to unit, shift to shift or day to day and any combination thereof. You know this sort of thing didn't matter back in those days. Would you agree though that the engine color had to be sprayed on when the starter was already installed on the engine so the nose would not have received engine color. We know for sure that the 390's with the chrome valve covers were sprayed with the covers in place. Word has it that there were temporary covers placed over the chrome covers when the engines were painted. Most 390's I've ever seen including my first 69 that I bought new had some engine color around the edges of the covers. Yes, the starters were on the engine when it was painted. You can also see this in the AMX story picture. I have a 67 factory starter and it shows no sign of black paint, only the gold/copper engine paint; it's really clean, from TX / CA. 68-70 from what I've seen were painted black at the vendor as said. On the engine fans, they were fairly glossy black and dipped at the vendor.

I just did an all-original starter from June, 1968 - black under the blue but the black was really really thin and they missed some areas. I used solvents, acetone and razor blades on this one, too.
The info I posted earlier about Ford/Autolite/Motorcraft starters was actually from well before 1970 so if they were not painted prior to 68 then it was done special that way for AMC - because those that went on Ford cars were indeed black. I have some from after 1970, also black under the gunk.
When this month is over I'll pull some off the shelf and dig into the ones before and after 68-70 to confirm. 

I strongly doubt any ordinary blast cabinet will hurt a fan. Destruction of parts by blasting is almost always pressure and industrial blasters. My compressor came from a business that blasted car parts of all kinds including body parts. I even blasted hood and other parts of my 70 with no far or damage. I once painted a 1950 1 ton chevy pickup that had been 100% blasted to remove all paint and most rust. No warping or damage.
Wahoo.....sort of have some slow internet for a while in fairbanks!

Just put some heavy drip spots on the fan to make it appear dipped.........

When I restore isolation diodes I often spray to run and then hang them so the paint runs to one end and begins to form a heavy spot but not quite to drip. They were dipped originally - the output bolt and nut were masked with tape, they were dipped then when dry they were machined for electrical contact with the nuts below the heat sink when installed.