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69 SC Journey

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kcsamc View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kcsamc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/16/2018 at 10:08pm
Chugging along here over the past week or so.  More to do than there is time but I keep moving with clicking off the items on the check list.

Last weekend dad was down to do some charcoal lacquer painting and we had 50 % success...  Finished up the first quart of paint on the rear side panels on Friday and a small redo on the glove box, and had to open the new can mixed for me last fall only to have that paint be a miserable fail.  From the mixing shop's analysis, the blue tint that is in the Ditzler mix must have gone bad.  Paint on the parts looked like someone threw sand on them before painting - wasted time...  ugh.  They mixed me a new can and we'll get the very last of the pieces redone in a few weeks, but I didn't need that much wasted effort.

The rear panels got a light shot of white on them as we finished up the weekend on some white touchup on the rear panel where the rotissiere hooked on, and got a first shot of white on the underside of the scoop.  I am starting to run out of safe places to store finished parts (time to start bolting on!!) so the trunk floor is the current warehouse for these:



This week I started tearing down the upper control arms.  You have to save the cupped and flat washers, so careful drilling was in order.  I used a 9/16" bit to bore it out, then came back in and pecked at the flared end of the bushing with the 5/8" bit until the washer was free.  My bushing rubber was in better shape than I thought with only outer cracking, but they needed to go.  I pressed out the bushings at work the other day, and after getting the blasting done on the arms and some etch primer they are headed out to another forum member's shop for pressing and swaging in the new bushings and washers.  The TSM has no instructions or tools for changing these.  AMC intended these to be full arm replace-outs, so they are not the easiest thing to do right.




The washers were gathered up and bead blasted and tin-zinc plated in prep for their trip out to be re-assembled:




Tonight, I got the top of the scoop painted white.  Watersanding on Saturday and maybe sometime in the next week the inside and inset areas will get flat black.





Kevin Shope
1964 Classic 660
67 Rogue 290-4V 4spd Conv
A-Scheme SC/Rambler (69 SC JOURNEY)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/16/2018 at 10:16pm
The tin/zinc you are using has decent lubricating qualities - better than zinc alone - so is a nice choice for those washers since I assume rubber would be rubbing against them. And it's easier than plain zinc if it's the acid-based plating I'm thinking of. 

Yeah, those control arms weren't really intended to be serviced that way......... seems to me I sold some NOS arms I had a while back but may have a couple left somewhere. I know - there were several styles and sizes for the various cars so it's likely what I had wouldn't have done you any good.
I suspect they were likely earlier ones.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kcsamc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/17/2018 at 7:55am
Bill, I actually have 2 NOS of these control arms but the rubber on those has dryrot as well. Decided I wanted fresh rubber all around so it was just as easy to redo the originals as the NOS ones at this point.
Kevin Shope
1964 Classic 660
67 Rogue 290-4V 4spd Conv
A-Scheme SC/Rambler (69 SC JOURNEY)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/17/2018 at 10:50am
I hear ya - my 70 has NOS lower arms but I didn't trust the bushings so replaced them. But the nice part is that car has totally unpitted lowers and riveted lower ball joints. 
I know where you are coming from.......
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve_P Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/20/2018 at 12:01pm
were the steering knuckles and the trunnion uprights not black on your car? Control arms painted black?

I have the uprights and knuckles 1st gen NOS and they're basically white metal- like the tie rod ends.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kcsamc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/20/2018 at 1:14pm
Everything in the Trunnion - Lower Control arm area was bare metal except the little brake line bracket, and the disc dust shields - which were semi-gloss black.

The upper control arms had a fair amount of undercoating on the "inside" of the U-channel, which is the side that faces out - back sides were bare-rusty.  Very little was painted with any protective finish in the front end of this car.

In contrast, I have found that the entire strut rod subassembly was painted all black in the off-line operation - including the cupped washer and all (3) nuts.  I am sure that post assembly adjustments would have knocked off some of that black paint, but I will be providing a more sanitized semi-gloss black to those components in finished assembly.

I have found some lockwashers are black phosphate in these areas, attached with clear zinc bolts and clear zinc hex nuts.....  I think I may do those back as black phosphate just to create conversation.  Wink
Kevin Shope
1964 Classic 660
67 Rogue 290-4V 4spd Conv
A-Scheme SC/Rambler (69 SC JOURNEY)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kcsamc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/07/2018 at 10:56pm
Work continues to grind on.  It seems a bit overwhelming trying to stay on track and keep all the balls in the air with things getting ordered, and things getting prepped to go out for service work, and projects on the plate that need to keep moving forward.  don;t have much time to post progress these days.

At the moment we have calipers out for sleeving and rebuilding, and the upper control arms out with another forum member getting the new bushings press-swaged in.  Meanwhile back at the shop I am finishing up the little details to get the dash installed in the next week, starting to assemble the right front axles now that most pieces are detailed and the hardware is back from plating.  The oil pan and alternator brackets have been primed and sanded out in preparation of the motor needing its parts soon.  Back phosphating of hardware was on the docket as well, so I decided to do some the restoration of the NOS exhaust pipe clamps this week (they look sharp), and the hood scoop is being readied to spray the flat black inside and on the center section.  Have you ever masked off a scoop to do that painting?  What a pain in the butt!

A couple pictures of things that have been going on:



NOS as found above.

As restored below:




The hood scoop ready for black spray tomorrow:


The hardware for the front end came back the other week, some of the nice looking original hardware:


With those pieces back in house and the bushings pressed into the powder coated strut rod bracket, I was able to hang the brackets (may have to take down again for engine install - so just finger tightened)


If you can look close at this photo above - you will see the restoration of the hardware as it came off the car - horizontal bolt - zinc, zinc lock washer, and black phosphate flat washer.  The vertical bolts are zinc, with zinc nuts and black phoshpate lock washers - talk about messed up!  Enjoy!

Tonight, I needed to assemble something to feel good about progress, so I was able to pull out the right axle pieces and started to assemble - loving the variation of colors and finishes:




Kevin Shope
1964 Classic 660
67 Rogue 290-4V 4spd Conv
A-Scheme SC/Rambler (69 SC JOURNEY)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote billd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/08/2018 at 9:43am
Some of those things you have to have your originals done because current replacements aren't always the exact same length or may be different in other ways. It looks like your suspension/steering bolts weren't badly pitted or rusted. 

My 73's leaf spring to frame bolts got a good clear zinc plate - so if I decide to do the car different in the future it will come apart nicely and already have the correct finish. 

It's nice being able to stick 'em in with other stuff I'm plating and have them done the same day......
These got done in the same batch as some wiper motor parts - 



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kcsamc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/14/2018 at 10:55pm
Theme night in the report out tonight:  THRIFTY USES OF FREE MATERIAL

Thought it would be fun to show some of the small things in rebuilding a Rambler, and trying to make good use of things in the shop to get it together, and in some cases, better than factory.

First up:

The steering column middle tube has (or had) a foam seal down at the bottom.  Documented here at teardown:



When I went to do re-assembly last month, I realized that I hadn't gotten any material to replace this.

I remembered that the DMT kit for the rear taillight housing had about the correct thickness foam in it and the diecut remains from the center were still upstairs in the box.  So, it was an opportunity.  After a cut or two, and some double sided adhesive, we had an instant $0 solution that worked perfectly!






A test fit show'd a perfect slide fit!


Second one happened today.  I was working to add the final things to the dash assembly to get ready for the dash install coming very soon.  I had already done gluing repairs on the defroster duct and was ready to bolt fast to the dash.  Test fitting, I started to see why these things always break the tabs off - the brackets are not parallel and they twist the ends down when tightened and because they are brittle - they just cracked.



So I started thinking about what to do with it to improve it and decided I wanted to cushion it, and recalled the DMT foam again and decided that the taillight lens foam would be enough thickness to do the job - so I decided the time to do it was worth it, and spent the next 45 minutes making little foam pads to fit the defroster duct:





It bothered me that although no one would ever see this, it was grey and decided 30 seconds more with a black sharpie would fix that!  Then a little 3M adhesive to bond it on:



After finishing them all, it was finally time to bolt it up.  This worked out good, decreased the stress on the re-glued joint, is invisible, and best of all - it was free.  I would suggest this improvement to everyone re-assembling an American.






This past week one of the side projects was getting the exhaust manifolds ported and cleaned for delivery to Jet-Hot for ceramic coating, as well as getting the original rotors turned, and the hub assembly detailed with high temp cast iron paint and trimmed out.  Those were finished up today and left out in the (finally) 84 deg sun to bake a little.  The races have been changed out and are ready for bearing packing and final assembly when the suspension gets loaded on the car.







Edited by kcsamc - Apr/14/2018 at 10:59pm
Kevin Shope
1964 Classic 660
67 Rogue 290-4V 4spd Conv
A-Scheme SC/Rambler (69 SC JOURNEY)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kcsamc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/21/2018 at 10:12pm
Had a good day at Spring Carlisle Friday stocking up on the things I need to finish the detailing, etc and a few tools, and hardware screws, etc to get me though the end of the project this year or at least up to Fall Hershey.

Today was back to the car, and it was a big day.  Lined up some help and extra hands to move the complete dash assembly from the back porch of the house where I had been "clean room" assembling, and bolted it into the car.  It was important to advance this action as it is time to start filling all the holes on the firewall with all the elements in the engine bay and get ready for summer motor install.

The mounting of the dash went quickly and in a few minutes we had it fastened in:



It's been a quarter century since the dash hung in that spot last!  About time!

After taking a break to do some outside chores, I came back to it tonight to start to plug stuff in and to run the cabling, etc.  Now the fun part begins - all the hard work FINALLY starts to turn into something recognizable as a car!  The payoff is starting.

While laying on my back working cable and wiring runs:



If you look close, you can see the factory harness ID tag on the NOS Courtesy Light Harness wire up on the inside of the cowl!



Some stuff down above - more to come shortly.

The fun will continue this week.  Engine bay will start to take shape now.  This week I have to get the lower control arms prepped for re-riveting service.  Ball joints are out after a hard fought battle with them and I need to push the bushings out and blast and prime.

Last week in the run-up to dash install, I was completing the body harness positioning and taping into positions in the cabin.  I had remembered (and you can read back to an old post) where I discovered completely burned out harness wire due to rubbing in the left side uni-body structure near the hinge bolt opening.  Determined to make sure this thing doesn't burn to the ground due to bad wiring and shorting out, I took a piece of new vacuum hose, split it and covered the hard edge in the spots where wire can rub.  although I did a few spots, this photo gives an idea of what, where and the reason why:



I would STRONGLY encourage other American restorers to do the same - part of the insurance policy for your car....




Kevin Shope
1964 Classic 660
67 Rogue 290-4V 4spd Conv
A-Scheme SC/Rambler (69 SC JOURNEY)
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