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69 SC Journey |
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Ram Air Rick 
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Joined: Jul/04/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2668 |
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 Posted: Feb/11/2018 at 5:27pm |
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Ah ha! Darrin doing the hard dirty technical work, while you stand by with the biscuits and gravy   Rich C. |
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kcsamc
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Joined: Sep/03/2011 Location: Denver, PA Status: Offline Points: 1974 |
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Posted: Feb/11/2018 at 10:44pm |
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Roger - a few photos just before tear down. assembly painted in car - brown primer dip all over, white as far as the painter wanted to reach, black spray bomb up the pedals (fronts only) to make appear invisible.    Restoration - in order of paint sequence (sorry about picture orientation...):       (last one just to show you that the backs are not painted!!!!)
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billd
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Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Posted: Feb/12/2018 at 7:42am |
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Yup - that area really only ever got paint on the top. The bottoms were often a brown primer like stuff.
When I stripped apart my cars I noted body paint on the tops, sometimes nice and shiny, sometimes not a great finish but the bottoms were only over-spray at best. My Eagle pedals were red only at the very top, otherwise black all around - and a bit of red where the black had worn through by the toes of someone's shoe. The 81 I parted was black all the way up until the last inch or two. Perhaps because the pedals were more visible farther up in those cars? I have pics of my cars and it seems they did more black on them, more coverage. And the pedal mounts were clearly body color on top, hardly over-spray on the lower sides. Edited by billd - Feb/12/2018 at 7:48am |
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kcsamc
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Joined: Sep/03/2011 Location: Denver, PA Status: Offline Points: 1974 |
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Posted: Feb/14/2018 at 10:35pm |
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Bill D: the next photos are for you. Just so you can see that I did finish the detailing you started on the back side of the fan motor. No one will ever see it, but just so I done you proud!
 Got it assembled to the disc plate with new rubber seals:  The stovepipe has been under the restoration process too with basically a full skim coat of JB Weld for high temp pit filling, it is shaping up pretty well, but what a time drain:  And last, but definitely not least, these beauties arrived in the past week from a fellow forum member that decided these should go on the Scrambler. They are very nice originals that will give the authentic look of a factory engine bay. Thanks Dave!  I will change out the engine tag and should be ready to go on that engine being built now. Goals coming up is to get the final elements of the heater box finished up and installed and prepare to load the completed dash into the car. At that point a lot of the firewall assembly items and wiring can begin in the engine bay. At the same time I am tearing down front end subassemblies, prepping parts and working on getting a batch of hardware plated right now. Staying very busy!
Edited by kcsamc - Feb/14/2018 at 10:38pm |
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billd
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Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Posted: Feb/14/2018 at 11:08pm |
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Holy cow, that blower motor looks GREAT - better than new, no shelf wear, no scuffing, etc.
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6PakBee
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Charter Member Joined: Jul/01/2007 Location: North Dakota Status: Online Points: 5458 |
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Posted: Feb/16/2018 at 12:46pm |
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Thanks for taking the time to fully explain this. You had me thrown for a loop initially! |
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Roger Gazur
1969 'B' Scheme SC/Rambler 1970 RWB 4-spd Machine 1970 Sonic Silver auto AMX All project cars. Forum Cockroach |
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kcsamc
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Joined: Sep/03/2011 Location: Denver, PA Status: Offline Points: 1974 |
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Posted: Feb/17/2018 at 10:25pm |
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I have posted the below in the parts wanted section, but I know a lot of people follow this blog, so doubling up here.
I'm making one last request to locate a second NOS lower control arm for this project. Been looking for over 20 years now, need to start the restoration process one way or the other.... Gr. 10.045, PN 3190939. If I can't find, I need to go the route of re-ball jointing the originals and have to send out for riveting. I would just as soon give someone here that money for a NOS one if you want to give it up. Sell outright, trade, promise first born,... PM me... Looks like the pictures here:   Edited by kcsamc - Feb/17/2018 at 10:30pm |
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kcsamc
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Joined: Sep/03/2011 Location: Denver, PA Status: Offline Points: 1974 |
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Posted: Feb/25/2018 at 10:29pm |
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Well if the messiness of the shop is an indication of the amount of activity, I think it's about as busy as it has ever been. Right now, there are a lot of projects in one phase or another of progress or completion. I will attempt to touch on some of them here tonight on this update.
Over the past several weeks I have been gathering up and prepping hardware for zinc plating. That involves tearing down subassemblies, documenting, documenting and more documenting, and partial restoration of bolt heads, and re-chasing all the threads - VERY time-consuming. One of the necessary projects to get torn down was the front axle and suspension assemblies. Time to get the greasy dirty assemblies down from the storage area. The right trunnion on this car was completely crumbling and bushings just fell out!    The originally black dust shields, now the typical scaly rust, are going to need a lot of love and time...  With the hardware for plating shipped out early in the weekend, it was time to start the dust shields. The goal is to have rust pit free semi-gloss powder coat black finish for re-assembly. That begins with a complete re-surfacing program of bead blasting, coating with JB WeldIt and sanding until my fingers are worn raw. So far my fingers are raw, but first plate is not done yet! While these will look brand new when done - it's a painful journey getting there.  Blasted..  Backside nearly sanded out - that only took 3 hours.... 3 more sides to go.... Late this evening I set aside the dust plates for a while and did some first stage restoration work on front axle hub components. The goal on these is similar to that of the steering box coupler from a few posts back. Blast, then zinc-tin plate the part enough to cover the original machined surfaces of the part, then paint the rest to make durable restored cast part. I got two pieces blasted and plated for the critical surfaces. Idler arm shaft got the threads and running shaft OD plated. The steering knuckle arm has a ground flat for a stop half way up and then the mounting surfaces machined flat at the one end. Below photo at the end of phase 1, plating:  Everything on these will make sense once the finish product is photo'd. But it is this step that makes the finished product visually and functionally work. For over a year, I having been trying to figure out a way to avoid buying an expensive tool to finish the re-assembly of the Heater Box. Well, time was up this month, as it needed to go into the car ASAP to get ready for dash install, so I finally bit the bullet for a hand squeeze riveter and rivet rolling dies. They arrived on Friday so I was anxious to test the tooling on the rivets as a dry run:   So with the test successfully completed, it was time to FINALLY finish the heater box!  With the motor assembly finished up last week, and pulling out the NORS heater core and the rest of the DMT rebuild kit, final assembly was a snap and the box assembly looked great for it's final portrait as a standalone assembly:  I didn't want to waste any time getting this installed as it was just in the way and I risked damaging it if I left it set around, so I grabbed the waiting hardware and some extra hands from the house and we got it installed Saturday night. It was really nice to fill up some holes in the firewall and make it look like real progress is being made!    I should note that I decided to partially install the antenna cable because of how close it is to the right side of the heater box as it enters the cabin. This week, I have a number of items I want to get going in the paint booth and to prep the rear rotisserie mount spots for touch-up when dad comes down again soon. On another front, the motor is making some progress at FASTNASH's, and I am gathering up some of my various pieces to be attached. One NOS piece I pulled this week, further shows the international flavor of this build! The other week it was the valve covers coming from Canada, here is a NOS 3179067 numbered timing chain cover (assy # 4489052) all the way from Australia! This NOS piece will be the crown jewel on the engine, but you won't get this pristine casting view again unfortunately!   |
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kcsamc
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Joined: Sep/03/2011 Location: Denver, PA Status: Offline Points: 1974 |
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Posted: Feb/25/2018 at 10:30pm |
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Still looking for this important part - any leads or if someone is willing to give one up, let me know! |
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billd
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Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Posted: Feb/25/2018 at 11:09pm |
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Say, where'd you get that nice looking blower motor?
Those hand riveters aren't cheap, are they? The ones that can reach into depths are even more pricey. And the dies - did you buy just the size you needed? The lengths - and expenses - we go to for such things, eh? |
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kcsamc wrote: