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69 SC Journey

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bigbadgreen View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigbadgreen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/16/2013 at 10:52pm
Wow, excellent job to detail on the sc...my thoughts exactly..No body shop would ever pay that much attention to detail.truly , award winning!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kcsamc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/20/2013 at 10:01pm
Small but significant milestone day in the shop today.  Eric has been spending the winter off and on stripping and preparing the inside of the new hood for priming; today it was finished and cleaned.  Looks good in "brushed steel"!  Time for primer, which will go on tomorrow afternoon.  A lot of hand work here for Eric (good learning experience!).  The transformation to a SC hood is looking very convincing.
Kevin Shope
1964 Classic 660
1964 Amb. 990H
A-Scheme SC/Rambler
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FuzzFace2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/21/2013 at 12:33pm
Tell Eric I feel his pain! I took the frame & hood skin apart on my 70 Javelin and did the "down to metal" thing on both sides of each part.
 
Are you going to pour in some rust treatment & shake it around before the primer goes on? I think you had a picture of a deck lid with rust in side. Also after pulling mine apart I am happy I did to get the rust taken care of before I put them back together again.
Dave ----
TSM = Technical Service Manual

75 Gremlin X v8 for sale
70 Javelin 360/auto drag car
70 Javelin 360/T5 Street car
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kcsamc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/21/2013 at 9:29pm
FuzzFace2:  Eric said he appreciates the sympathy - I think he was glad and ready to flip the hood over and do the smooth side!  Sounds like you were really working to take apart a hood and put it back together.  The American hood has spot welds around the edges even where it is crimped over.  I don't think I would have wanted to try that one...  I looked through the holes and saw that this donor hood had good coverage of the factory dipping primer as far as I could see - much better than the original Scrambler hood.  To be safe I am planning on using the Eastwood Internal Frame paint down into both back corners and the front lip - will probably do that after we flip it over as it runs everywhere.  I plan to use that in the subframes and rockers also.  It has a phosphate base in it supposedly so it should be a good rust inhibitor.
 
Today I shot the inside of the hood and the left rocker / rear quarter with vinyl wash and 2k primer:
 
I'm pretty happy with the quarter edge detailing, and I think we are about ready to flip the car over the other direction to finally start the assault on the last big hurdle on the metalwork - the right rear quarter.  After a little break for Spring Carlisle and some spring yardwork, we should be ready to do that.  With some effort, I am hoping to finish the right rear quarter and do the blasting, subframe straightening, priming on the undercarriage by fall.


Edited by kcsamc - Apr/21/2013 at 9:31pm
Kevin Shope
1964 Classic 660
1964 Amb. 990H
A-Scheme SC/Rambler
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kcsamc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/26/2013 at 10:09am
Awesome Carlisle week here in Pennsylvania!  Kirkwood made a trip to the house from the fairgrounds for a visit and to hand deliver a part for the SC/Rambler (awesome shipping service!), and our group posse of friends and family had a great day soaking in the sun, fun, cars, parts, and other sights yesterday.  Sunny and 60 was great for shopping.  Filled the cart (3) times with supplies and goodies.  The last time out the poor little cart had 200 lb of bodywork materials and blasting media on it - what a load!  Got enough supplies to keep me working deep into the bodywork now.  Picked up the newest blasting material - medium grade crushed glass - they guarantee that it won't warp steel....  Thinking I might try this stuff on the trunk and strip the whole thing.
 
Took a number of my clips and hardware along for matching.  Finding that AMC really used some oddball stuff.  Had some luck, but I think I'm going to have to lean on some AMC only vendors to look through their stash for some of this oddball stuff.  Found that even the American bumper bolts aren't readily out there.  GM used a similar version, but length was different.  I may have to give a little on that one if they can at least get the nut on.  I did find a vendor that had the rear fuel line clips that have a scissor type attachment to body hole.  (I think this is the Grp. 4.152  P/N 47272).  Outside of that, not much AMC parts were found this time (maybe another forum member got it before me!).  Did score some Wittek radiator hose clamps for $1.00/pc with nice plating - stocked up on those!
Kevin Shope
1964 Classic 660
1964 Amb. 990H
A-Scheme SC/Rambler
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amx39068 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/26/2013 at 10:32am
Originally posted by kcsamc kcsamc wrote:

Found that even the American bumper bolts aren't readily out there.  GM used a similar version, but length was different.  I may have to give a little on that one if they can at least get the nut on. 
 
We use early Mustange bumper bolts that have a slightly larger head but are nearly impossible to tell the difference when installed unless you hold an original bumper bolt next to the Mustang ones.
Dan Curtis-Owner and CEO AZ AMC Restorations; Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/amcmusclecars/ & Curtis Real Estate Development
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote theamcguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/26/2013 at 4:58pm
Bill Strobel
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1967 Rebel SST
1969 SC/Rambler
1972 Hornet Sportabout
1976 Matador Brougham
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote theamcguy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/26/2013 at 5:00pm
"Found that even the American bumper bolts aren't readily out there.  GM used a similar version, but length was different."

I noticed that the heads on all the AMC bumper bolts were much flatter that anything I could ever find reproduction.  I found the right lengths but the heads were a lot rounder on top and stick up a bit higher.  Why didn't they all use the same bolts? 
Bill Strobel
Fayetteville, NC
1967 Rebel SST
1969 SC/Rambler
1972 Hornet Sportabout
1976 Matador Brougham
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kcsamc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/26/2013 at 8:03pm
Bill - I think I was finding pretty much what you were.  Almost all bolts have a higher crown than the AMC (American at least).  The GM 1" bolt had the flatest profile, but not really long enough.
 
Dan - thanks for the tip, I am going to stop in at the Mustang suppliers tents next time around and compare them.  I did a quick check on-line for photos and came up with this one from Superior Mustang Parts:
 
I'm not sure if the bottom one has a different "concours profile" or not, but the upper one looks to have a more rounded head vs. the AMC.  I'll do a more thorough comparison this fall and report back.
 
On a different note, yesterday I picked up a 16" long DuraBlock sanding block.  I had been testing my preferences on new sanding blocks and really liked the 11" version I had.  I had thought it was doing an awesome job, and it does, but, when I laid the 16" block on the rear panel with guide dust and started re-blocking, I was surprised to see how many new minor imperfections appeared.  Glad I got the 16" version.  I don't think a longer one would help a whole lot more, maybe a little just down to the wheel lip.  The 16" version looks like a good compromise for the working space on the panel.  Note to everyone else - invest in some longer blocks, you'll see it do a better job on getting those final small imperfections sanded out.


Edited by kcsamc - Apr/26/2013 at 8:05pm
Kevin Shope
1964 Classic 660
1964 Amb. 990H
A-Scheme SC/Rambler
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FuzzFace2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/26/2013 at 8:29pm
Originally posted by kcsamc kcsamc wrote:

FuzzFace2:  Eric said he appreciates the sympathy - I think he was glad and ready to flip the hood over and do the smooth side!  Sounds like you were really working to take apart a hood and put it back together.  The American hood has spot welds around the edges even where it is crimped over.  I don't think I would have wanted to try that one...  I looked through the holes and saw that this donor hood had good coverage of the factory dipping primer as far as I could see - much better than the original Scrambler hood.  To be safe I am planning on using the Eastwood Internal Frame paint down into both back corners and the front lip - will probably do that after we flip it over as it runs everywhere.  I plan to use that in the subframes and rockers also.  It has a phosphate base in it supposedly so it should be a good rust inhibitor.
The Javelin hooh crimp edges are also spot welded but the tool I got from east wood un-crimped and popped the spot weld like nothing. Because I dont have a spot welder I just tack welded in the same spots.
 
I am looking into the same internal frame coating for my rockers, A posts and the rear lid. I am not taking the rear lid apart like the hood, one was enough!
 
I am not looking to be spot on like you are doing with yours, I am going crazy enough as it is Wink but I can admire what you and other can and have done to your cars.
Keep the posts coming.
Dave ----
TSM = Technical Service Manual

75 Gremlin X v8 for sale
70 Javelin 360/auto drag car
70 Javelin 360/T5 Street car
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