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69 SC Journey |
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Page <1 7374757677 95> |
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401MATCOUPE 
AMC Addicted 
Joined: May/20/2010 Location: Salisbury, MD Status: Offline Points: 5367 |
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 Posted: Oct/13/2017 at 5:26am |
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Kevin...looks great , are your radio knobs NOS? I think I have some, wasn't sure what they were for, but now I know.
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Ross K. Peterson
68X,GoPac,343,AT,52A(1stCar) 68X,GoPac,390,4sp,52A 69X,GoPac,390,4sp,64A 70X,GoPac,390,4sp,87A,8 70X,GoPac,390,4sp,BBO,8 70 Jav SST,390,AT,BSO 74MatX,401,AT,Prototype 74MatX,401,AT |
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kcsamc
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Joined: Sep/03/2011 Location: Denver, PA Status: Offline Points: 1974 |
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Posted: Oct/13/2017 at 6:51pm |
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They are supposed to be NOS but the deeper right side has a little piece missing on the inside boss that goes over the radio shaft. I also think the chrome plating on these parts in general is questionable. Kind of like the automatic shifter knob chrome plastic. So I wouldnt mind an extra set. Put me a set sside for next time we are together.
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Scene One
AMC Addicted
Joined: Jan/13/2014 Location: Friedens Pa. Status: Offline Points: 699 |
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Posted: Oct/13/2017 at 7:28pm |
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wow Kevin looking fantastic!!!!
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hassyfoto
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Joined: Nov/16/2009 Location: Maryland Status: Offline Points: 3378 |
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Posted: Oct/13/2017 at 10:23pm |
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Murphy's Law:
Any given mechanical job you decide to solve alone will imminently require a third hand, at its most critical moment |
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Ram Air Rick
Supporter of TheAMCForum 
Joined: Jul/04/2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2668 |
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Posted: Oct/14/2017 at 7:29am |
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EPIC !
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mowerman59
AMC Fan 
Joined: Sep/11/2017 Location: Harper, Kansas Status: Offline Points: 4 |
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Posted: Nov/06/2017 at 7:45pm |
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Kevin, I can repeat all the accolades that have been said up to this point and it still would fall short, so what I will say is a BIG THANKYOU. Your posts help the rest of us with not only the technical part of rebuilds but also gives us the drive to get back on our projects. Thanks for that. I grew up in Kenosha and saw the Rogues,the SC/ramblers,Javelins,AMX's, and the rest when they came off the line and were running the streets of Kenosha. My friends in high school drove many of these cars and most of us had older Ramblers, cuz thats what we could afford and they were everywhere in Kenosha. When I moved to Kansas in '75' I drove the last Rambler I had, a '65' Marlin. Your Posts will help me get started on the old girl and maybe she will make it back home to Kenosha some day in the future. Thanks.
Mowerman59 |
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kcsamc
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Joined: Sep/03/2011 Location: Denver, PA Status: Offline Points: 1974 |
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Posted: Nov/07/2017 at 11:29am |
So kind of you to post! There is hope for all of us that are weekend warriors. I sure hope you get cracking on your Marlin for 2020, and even start your own thread here so we can cheer you on to get it ready to go! |
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kcsamc
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Joined: Sep/03/2011 Location: Denver, PA Status: Offline Points: 1974 |
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Posted: Nov/15/2017 at 8:19pm |
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Been a little bit since I posted last. As we headed into the second half of October, I ended up facing a date with the surgeon for my achilles tendon problems, and had to go into property winterization mode earlier than usual. the barn needed cleaned up upstairs to store away the cars, the flower beds needed shutdown and numerous little things to get ready for me to be partially out of commission for multiple weeks, and the 79 Concord went up for sale and found a new home. A little work continued as I could on the car, and I got some help from FASTNASH and his brother at the end of October to move the completed rear downstairs and positioned under the car for further assembly as I recover.
Now about 2 weeks out from surgery, the doctor says things are going well, but the heel still gets sore, so hoping that time settles it down... Have to wear a boot for at least another month  Photos of the rear back under the car but not yet installed:   The dash is pretty well completed now. Over Thanksgiving I think I will have dad shoot some lacquer on the ash tray and glove box door since he likes spraying lacquer so much. That will finish off the dash pieces. The new M&H wire harness is connected up to the dash now as well (so glad this car is getting a new wire harness!). I also picked up an NOS fuse panel, which now completes a 100% electrical NOS / new component change-out on the car. Yes, everything from TS headlight bulbs to all switches, wiring, housings, gauges, distributor, coil etc are NOS/new on the car when done.  This week, I got myself back into the shop to start working again in earnest. I had to laugh when I looked at what I had hanging in the paint booth - the hood flapper, rear shock mounting plate, trans x-member, and wiper transmission arm - LOL, quite the random grouping for priming last night. So on went the garbage bag over the boot/leg, and get back to it with the spray gun!  Time to crank it back up this winter and make some major progress! |
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kcsamc
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Joined: Sep/03/2011 Location: Denver, PA Status: Offline Points: 1974 |
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Posted: Nov/25/2017 at 10:48pm |
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Progress through the holiday, basically dictates this post to be more of a How To Posting. Several successes to report, and some lessons learned along the way....
First up: Reproduction Firewall Pad. The basic pad as sourced is a good starting point, but multiple areas need more holes, such as those for the carpet push plugs, and the heater core mount points. Also, the pad needs to be slit to go around the pedal mounting bracket (if you are assembling to look just as original - the pedal assembly was painted in car at factory). I found that the face butyl can easily be cut with a utility knife, but the insulation underneath needs to be pierced. After hours of tracing paper and reviewing actual item mounting and what was left of original pad, I began laying it out and cutting:    I used a 1/4" and 1/2" wood chisel on a wood backer to dice the insulation in the areas that needed cut open. This mimics the way that REM made them with cutting dies. The finished product after all the mods - lots of holes on the left side!  This will get installed in the next day or so now with adhesive spray. Second project: Pulling the rear wire harness through the rocker panel. This is one of those projects that can go very wrong with little recourse, but I think good pre-planning on this one made it successful with one exception - learn from this one! Way back when I pulled the old one out - I ran a thin tracer wire through with the removal pull and tied it off on either end. Below shows me covering the left front connector end with electrical tape to make everything streamlined for the pull, and then wrapping the trace pull wire on, and over taping it with duct tape. Make sure to "bullet" nose the leading end with the tape - from and wrap it to streamline it.   IMPORTANT: I believe the new M&H harnesses use a slightly larger OD taillight socket than original - AND they won't fit through the bulk head hole. Trust me... I found out the hard way... had the wire completely pulled through the rocker and then wouldn't fit back through....  So out it came again and threaded the front end through the rear bulkhead and re-tied to tracer wire and back through the rocker one more time!  Success! It is installed just like the factory did it.  Third project: Moving the factory door tag from old original door to the new door on the car. Making the Scrambler official again! First a picture to prove its authenticity before moving:  I used a dremel with a grinding wheel to cut the rivets from the back side. I did a very careful cleaning of the tag and then started to work on riveting it to the car door with factory black rivets. I was warned to be careful of the lower left rivet position. The rivet location is nearly up against the inside lip of the door. Test fitting the rivet gun, it really needed a modification to allow the gun to be perpendicular to the tag and rivet - so we ground the tip of the gun to give clearance:   Taping up everything, aligning, and squeezing the trigger while praying everything works the way it should! Soon enough its on without a hitch:   The tag is good looking for its age, but has just enough patina etch on the aluminum to tell you that it is original to the car and not fake. Just the right amount of originality. Lastly, a simple project that made me very happy today - re-riveting the remote door latch assembly together. The remote door latch was broke on the right side, so I disassembled it a few weeks back and detailed the rod assembly, but was a bit stumped on how to roll a tube rivet with out spending hundreds of dollars of a special rivet tool /inserts. Googling the web, I finally hit an ebay posting that advertised a cheap tool to 3/16 tube rivets for Tonka Trucks. I looked at it and said, I think this will work and its cheap enough to try it. The tool came this weekend in the mail, so I tried it out. The rivet for the remote latches is Gr. # 23.055, PN 4000307, a flat head, semi-tubular steel rivet. I had just (2) of them, one for each side, so I really needed to get it right the first time. The DASCO #257 Roll Pin Punch worked like a charm. About 10 careful hits with a hammer, and you could watch the progressive rolling of the rivet until tight enough on the assembly. The finished product looked factory!!. I have since found out that you can buy a (6) piece roll pin punch set from DASCO on Amazon for about $27. It's going to be on my tool list for sure!!! The finished project:  On other fronts, the painting on the rear trans cross member is complete, and dad just finished painting a batch of charcoal interior pieces today including the glove box and ash tray. I have one more batch of interior parts to bead blast and prep for painting then most of the interior items will be detailed. Making some progress. Got to keep moving!!! |
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kalve
AMC Nut
Joined: Nov/04/2012 Location: Charleston WV Status: Offline Points: 279 |
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Posted: Nov/26/2017 at 4:51am |
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looks good nice project you have come a long ways with it.
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1964 T bird Landau
2000 Mercedes Benz CLK 430 convertible 1970 AMC Rebel SST Wagon |
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mowerman59 wrote: