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69 AMX Lug Bolt removal?

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david0141 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote david0141 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/12/2018 at 3:06pm
Thanks for the info. Where can I find the tool?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AMXFSTBK390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/12/2018 at 4:36pm
"Where do you find the swage tool?" THAT IS the million dollar question. The tool is probably the easier of the tools to get that you will need. The 2nd step of the repair, installing a new wheel stud, also requires special tools. Swaging is basically cold forging or cold riveted into place. It will be difficult to find a swadging tool that will withstand over 20 tons of force that is required. Goodson dot com might carry the tools required. Probably have to call them. Here is the process to install the wheel stud:
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/12/2018 at 4:58pm
The tool is called an "Annular" or "Core" cutter but I have not found one the right size or with that taper point in my 1/2 hour searching.
Still, if you don't put a stud back in with the swage, there is no support for the rim with a tapered nut on a rim. The rim will deform.
To achieve a proper torque you would have to repair the taper if installing a standard stud.
Still of the opinion that Mack had the better removal/replacement option. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AMXFSTBK390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/12/2018 at 5:15pm
Yeah. It is kinda like trying to find Waldo.

 A carbide tip hollow end mill will machine away the shoulder using a drill press. This will prevent damage to the valuable hub. Always felt there was more than one way to skin a cat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Javelin360 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/12/2018 at 7:30pm
Before I installed the Control Freak IFS on my 69 AMX I had similar problems with bad disc brake hubs. I just retrofitted the disc brake assemblies from a 74 Gremlin onto the AMX. Problem solved since the discs are readily available. It is a volt on modification.
69 AMX     401/727
74 Javelin 360/727
09 Mustang Supercharged 4.6
14 Wrangler Sport 4X4
18 GMC Sierra
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AMXFSTBK390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/12/2018 at 9:33pm
Originally posted by david0141 david0141 wrote:

Thanks for the info. Where can I find the tool?

BINGO! GOODSON Tools and Supply sells the Swedge Cutting Tool. Bit pricy, Part # ST-500 is $92.99. It is for 1/2" wheel studs. Goodson also sells several other sizes. Here is a picture from their website for a 1/2" Swedge cutting tool.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tomj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/12/2018 at 10:44pm
couldn't you just hacksaw the stud flush, or cut above the flat, and mill it close to flush? then just drive the stub out normally. and/or drill out the chopped stub to relieve the metal swaged below flush, though if it were milled flush with the hub face that metal wouldn't have much strength left.

i guess i've been lucky with my 6 cyl hubs, they use flat-headed studs and serrated press-in. are serrated press-in studs available? hard to believe the swage provides much advantage. i've never had a stud come loose, that seems like it would take an awful lot of effort/abuse to accomplish.
1960 Rambler Super two-door wagon, OHV auto
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote david0141 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/13/2018 at 9:02pm
Thanks everyone for the info. 
I think I will buy the tool from Goodson to remove.

One other question. Why does it need to be swedged going back in? 
Won't the wheel & lug nut hold every thing in place?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AMXFSTBK390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/13/2018 at 9:52pm
Originally posted by david0141 david0141 wrote:


One other question. Why does it need to be swedged going back in? 
Won't the wheel & lug nut hold every thing in place?

The swadge process  crushed the shoulder at the base of the wheel stud. I found this out the hard way. Bought an expensive set (4) of Tq Thrust ll  two-piece wheels. The wheels would not sit flush against the  FDB hubs because of a terrible wheel stud swadge job. 

You ask a good question and I have pondered it many times. The key would be finding the right wheel stud. I have looked at Dorman's extensive catalogs of wheel studs. It is like looking at NYPD's complete library of mug shots. It is amazing all the different dimensions that play into this. Here is the correct AMX wheel stud I got at Galvin's, the day his wheel stud vendor paid a visit. We had a short chat about how the correct wheel stud was not available until now. Here is a picture I took of the wheel stud. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote david0141 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep/14/2018 at 7:30am
Thanks again for the help. I see where everyone says that they need to be swedged or the rim will not sit flat but my existing studs are not swedged all the way around, they are only swedged in 2 spots. Maybe 1/8" on each side. I will try to upload my picture again. If it doesnt show up you can send me your em address to david0141@yahoo.com and I will forward it to you.

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