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69' AMX 390 |
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apedersen 
AMC Fan 
Joined: Sep/05/2016 Location: New York Status: Offline Points: 13 |
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 Topic: 69' AMX 390Posted: Jun/01/2018 at 5:12pm |
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Looking for some insight...
69' AMX 390 4 speed starts right up every time no problem. After engine warms up to normal operating temp, engine turns over very slowly and will not restart (like a weak battery). Engine will start up after engine cools down "OR" will also restart and crank normal if I disconnect the battery and then immediately reconnect it. Battery tests OK. Ideas? |
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jpnjim
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Joined: Nov/25/2007 Location: New England Status: Offline Points: 2752 |
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Posted: Jun/01/2018 at 5:18pm |
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Every hot start problem I've ever had was starter related,
or solenoid related. Do you have headers? Cleaning all the electrical connections from the battery to the starter, and cleaning the main ground connections is easy and free so I'd start there, but cast a suspicious eye towards the starter being heat soaked (especially if you have headers) while I was cleaning the connections.
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71 P-code 4spd Javelin/AMX
some Jeeps and some Fords |
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apedersen
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Joined: Sep/05/2016 Location: New York Status: Offline Points: 13 |
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Posted: Jun/01/2018 at 6:22pm |
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Yes, I do have headers and I also was leaning towards starter heat soak.
The thing that threw me was that disconnecting the battery and then reconnecting it wouldn't eliminate the heat soak, yet it does work. I've never had an issue like this until this season. All connections have been cleaned, double cleaned and tightened. Thanks much,
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mmaher94087
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Joined: Apr/01/2008 Location: Arizona Status: Offline Points: 1690 |
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Posted: Jun/01/2018 at 6:36pm |
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I have seen re-start problems arise from too far advanced timing. Cold starts were fine but hot starts were sluggish.
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Mike
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george w
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Joined: Jan/27/2013 Location: New Jersey Status: Offline Points: 2899 |
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Posted: Jun/01/2018 at 7:24pm |
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Timing wouldn't be effected by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery unless you have some type of electronic ignition system. If simply disconnecting the battery and reconnecting "fixes" the issue every time then it sure sounds like some kind of odd battery problem. Try another battery or use a jumper box.
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Long time AMC fan. Ambassador 343, AMX 390, Hornet 360, Spirit 304 and Javelin 390. All but javelin bought new.
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ccowx
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Joined: Nov/03/2010 Location: Yukon Status: Offline Points: 3510 |
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Posted: Jun/01/2018 at 7:43pm |
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I have experienced trying to start a car and having it suddenly just shut down. It has turned out to be that the sudden load on the battery terminal connections has caused them to develop a heavy resistance. I recall someone referring to it as "sulphating out", though I could be remembering it wrong.
I suspect that a higher than normal load, probably from the starter, is causing it to develop this sudden heavy resistance. Disconnecting the battery or even twisting the cable seemed to fix it in my case. I would also check the starter and other connections as suggested. Somewhere you have a heavy load, especially when hot, and the starter is the logical place. The terminal connectivity issue is likely a symptom. Chris |
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billd
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Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Posted: Jun/01/2018 at 8:00pm |
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I wonder if disconnecting and reconnecting is actually moving the battery post just a teeny bit.... pushing down to put the cable back on.........
Timing can impact cranking, but electronic ignition has zero to do with any of this at all - it won't impact cranking. |
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mmaher94087
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Joined: Apr/01/2008 Location: Arizona Status: Offline Points: 1690 |
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Posted: Jun/01/2018 at 8:30pm |
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"..but electronic ignition has zero to do with any of this at all - it won't impact cranking." Agree, but where did the E-ignition come from?
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Mike
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jpnjim
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Posted: Jun/01/2018 at 8:55pm |
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A heavy current draw across a poor connection can set up a high resitance condition,
that only goes away by breaking and remaking that connection. I don't think that's what's going on, because when I've had it happen to me (usually from laziness of not tightening the clamp bolt of the battery clamp), I would get zero out of the battery (no radio/lights/nothing) until I "exercise" the connection rubbing off the flash of carbon (I guess) that's in there interupting the connection. I don't think that's your issue because you are still getting "something" out of the battery before you break and remake the connection, and I don't think that's it because it gets better on it's own after it cools off. Here's what I would do: voltmeter: do a before and after voltmeter test at the starter (carefully, especially with a manual trans). Hot restart: slow crank crank crank what's your voltage? break and remake the battery cable: good cranks now, what's your voltage? ^if you don't want to lie under the car to test at the starter you can try testing at the starter side of the solenoid. The other test I would do is, if the break and make connection trick really does work every time, try it breaking and making a different connection If you are breaking/making the positive battery terminal, try the negative (or vice versa). If it only works on one of the terminals, that connection would be suspect to me (no matter how good it looks). Sometimes the taper of the battery terminal isn't the best possible match for the clamp. |
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71 P-code 4spd Javelin/AMX
some Jeeps and some Fords |
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billd
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Forum Administrator Joined: Jun/27/2007 Location: Iowa Status: Offline Points: 30894 |
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Posted: Jun/01/2018 at 10:39pm |
Did you see george's post? he mentioned electronic ignition, but most are simply points replacement systems unless you get into the serious systems or factory systems. |
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mmaher94087 wrote: