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'68 390 Mods |
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Buzzman72
AMC Addicted Joined: Sep/15/2009 Location: Southern IN Status: Offline Points: 2725 |
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My guess would be that, since the center ports in the intake handle hot exhaust gases, the center portion is to keep motor oil from direct contact with that heat and "coking up" the bottom of the intake with burnt motor oil. But that's simply my guess. |
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Buzzman72...void where prohibited, your mileage may vary, objects in mirror may be closer than they appear, and alcohol may intensify any side effects.
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akimmet
AMC Nut Joined: Aug/02/2012 Location: Republic OH Status: Offline Points: 428 |
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Your guess is 100% correct. One can do without the exhaust crossover cover if they block the exhaust crossover. However, that will negatively affect idle quality on cold startup. |
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Dirtydog
AMC Apprentice Joined: Nov/20/2017 Location: Harleysville PA Status: Offline Points: 67 |
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If you get a chance read my post 69 390 using oil low vacuum it is a recent post you're talking about my saying problem I'm down to trying to find out if the intake pan is a gasket or do I need a second set of gaskets with the intake pan and where the best places to buy them. As far as my vacuum problem I'm thinking it's the cam plus the line running to the brakes vacuum canister was brittle where it was bolted to my intake I think I have everything solved now just trying to get parts to put back together
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Blue68SST
AMC Apprentice Joined: Nov/04/2014 Location: Mississauga, On Status: Offline Points: 123 |
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Thanks, I read it last night. I see you have found a baffle. I did as well. I will pull my manifold when it arrives and see if there is a valley pan gasket. I plan on putting it back together with a factory valley pan and the intake baffle. Hopefully that goes to fixing the oil consumption problem. I will post results.
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Dirtydog
AMC Apprentice Joined: Nov/20/2017 Location: Harleysville PA Status: Offline Points: 67 |
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What I'm trying to figure out is the Valley Pan the pan and the gasket in one. Or do I need the separate gaskets and the Valley Pan I saw one post where they just put the Valley Pan in. I'll be interested in seeing how you make out.
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Blue68SST
AMC Apprentice Joined: Nov/04/2014 Location: Mississauga, On Status: Offline Points: 123 |
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I finally got a replacement baffle, and valley pan gasket, so I pulled the intake. There was a valley pan gasket, but no baffle on the intake. It seems from the old valley pan gasket that there was considerable vacuum leak on the front side. This is probably because the intake bolts were almost all BARELY FINGER TIGHT! I suppose I should have checked that earlier, but it was probably most of the reason for the oil consumption, and why #2 spark plug kept fouling. |
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PHAT69AMX
AMC Addicted Joined: Jul/07/2007 Location: West Virginia Status: Offline Points: 5926 |
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Just talking...
Sheet Metal PVC Baffle attached to Intake Bottom is a "must". (Factory was "Drive Rivets") Sheet Metal AMC Valley Pan Gasket is a "must" ( may wanna kinda "pre-form pre-curl" it a little...) That's it. No "paper strip gaskets" are used.... except "special" situations guess should say... Also suggest silicone beads (allowed to tack-up awhile first) across front and rear instead of the "rubber strips"... While intake is off, measure the under-head length off all your Intake Manifold Mounting Bolts to make sure they are all equal. Then screw all you Intake Manifold Mounting Bolts into all the tapped holes in the heads till they bottom out that they go into. Then use some calipers or something and measure the distance from below the bolt head to the surface of the cylinder head. Then measure the Intake Manifold Mounting Flange Thickness. Subtract the thickness of any washers that will be used. Long Story Short, imho... best to measure and CONFIRM there IS CLAMPING FORCE when the Intake Mounting Bolts are tightened down... The tapped holes in the heads are blind tapped holes...
Also, as a side note, there is sometimes very little "room" for WASHERS on the Intake Mounting Flange. There are 3 basic different "styles" of Flat Washers with different Outside Diameters for the ?3/8 iirc Mounting Bolts, Std or USS Wrought Flat washers are a "large" OD (Fender Washers, a 4th "style" are the largest OD), "SAE" Flat Washers are a smaller OD than USS Wrought for a given Bolt Size, and "AN" Flat Washers are the smallest OD for a given Bolt Size. iirc I used some SAE and some AN washers last time (long ago) when I mounted a Torker Intake on my 343 AMC V8. And I like the small head 12 point Intake mounting bolts (more wrench clearance). No Silicone anywhere that fuel or fuel vapors contact... Old School GaskaCinch or Indian Head, etc... And of course, all clean surfaces... Goal: Confirmed Bolt Clamping force, square flush washer "setting", good wrench clearance, a successful leak-free Intake Manifold Installation. All right enough or too much already... better stop LOL Edited by PHAT69AMX - Apr/23/2018 at 8:34pm |
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69 ambassador 390
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Nov/22/2009 Location: Peoria, AZ Status: Offline Points: 3539 |
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Yes you can tell. Just pull the PCV valve out and insert a long screw driver into the hole. If you hear a tin sheetmetal sound, you have the valley pan. If you hit cast iron, you don't. |
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Steve Brown
Algonac, Mi. 69 Ambassador sst 390 84 Grand Wagoneer 69 Cougar XR7 65 Fairlaine 500XL 79 F-350 Super Camper Special |
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69 ambassador 390
Supporter of TheAMCForum Joined: Nov/22/2009 Location: Peoria, AZ Status: Offline Points: 3539 |
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I see you pulled it. That gasket was leaking so good job. I install several of these a week. Here's some tips.
Use a large bead of Right Stuff instead of end seals. Never, ever, ever, Use silicone RTV Around the intake ports, none are gas proof. Use Permatex #2 Or aviation form a gasket. Right Stuff or RTV around the water ports. Do both sides of the gasket. Seal all bolt hole beads in the gasket with AV Forma a gasket also to prevent oil weeps onto the intake surface, ugly. A 3/8" tall bead of Right Stuff is good front and rear rail. Also a strip from the corner of the water jacket to the end rail. Set the manifold on accurately, don't slide it to align it. Put the bolts in just snug, not tight and walk away for twelve or so hours to let the sealers set up. After you let it sit for the day, tighten to specs. This allows the sealers to form a chemical bond and harden in place. When you tighten it the rest of the way it compresses the newly formed end seals and gives a strong mechanical bond also. You will have no leaks ever. PCV must never be pulled from an intake runner. It must always be pulled from the common plenum area. If you pull PCV from a runner fitting, it will severely lean that cylinder and cause oil fouling also. The PCV flow must be shared with all cylinders. The carb fitting or base plate is the correct place to pull PCV. Port fittings are for dead head vacuum only like gauges or vacuum actuated vent/ ac ducting. Vacuum wipers are flow through systems and should be pulled from the carb also. |
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Steve Brown
Algonac, Mi. 69 Ambassador sst 390 84 Grand Wagoneer 69 Cougar XR7 65 Fairlaine 500XL 79 F-350 Super Camper Special |
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WesternRed
AMC Addicted Joined: Aug/03/2010 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 5808 |
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Since you are that far into it, it's not a big deal to pull the valve covers and checkout the valve stem seals while you are at it. They are relatively easy to replace with the engine in the car if needs be. Also have a good look at the cam through the holes in the valley to check for any abnormal wear on the cam lobes.
Back to an earlier question, it's quite possible you have 1970 exhaust manifolds, which are logs but have dog leg exhaust ports, that's what a smart engine/car builder would do if wanting to maintain the stock look. |
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