TheAMCForum.com Homepage
Forum Home Forum Home > The Garage > AMC V8 Engine Repair and Modifications
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - '68 390 Mods
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

Click for TheAMCForum Rules / Click for PDF version of Forum Rules
Your donations help keep this valuable resource free and growing. Thank you.

'68 390 Mods

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1234>
Author
Message
Buzzman72 View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Sep/15/2009
Location: Southern IN
Status: Offline
Points: 2725
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Buzzman72 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/13/2018 at 5:12am
Originally posted by 67 Marlin 67 Marlin wrote:

Why is the baffle so big? Why does it need to cover the entire center part of the intake? If it's just a PCV baffle, then isn't the only part that's really needed the quarter section in the upper left-hand of the photos, where the PCV valve is? Could someone just fab up a piece of sheet metal in that one place and meet the need?


My guess would be that, since the center ports in the intake handle hot exhaust gases, the center portion is to keep motor oil from direct contact with that heat and "coking up" the bottom of the intake with burnt motor oil.

But that's simply my guess.
Buzzman72...void where prohibited, your mileage may vary, objects in mirror may be closer than they appear, and alcohol may intensify any side effects.
Back to Top
akimmet View Drop Down
AMC Nut
AMC Nut
Avatar

Joined: Aug/02/2012
Location: Republic OH
Status: Offline
Points: 428
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote akimmet Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/13/2018 at 8:56am
Originally posted by Buzzman72 Buzzman72 wrote:

Originally posted by 67 Marlin 67 Marlin wrote:

Why is the baffle so big? Why does it need to cover the entire center part of the intake? If it's just a PCV baffle, then isn't the only part that's really needed the quarter section in the upper left-hand of the photos, where the PCV valve is? Could someone just fab up a piece of sheet metal in that one place and meet the need?


My guess would be that, since the center ports in the intake handle hot exhaust gases, the center portion is to keep motor oil from direct contact with that heat and "coking up" the bottom of the intake with burnt motor oil.

But that's simply my guess.


Your guess is 100% correct.

One can do without the exhaust crossover cover if they block the exhaust crossover. However, that will negatively affect idle quality on cold startup.
Back to Top
Dirtydog View Drop Down
AMC Apprentice
AMC Apprentice


Joined: Nov/20/2017
Location: Harleysville PA
Status: Offline
Points: 67
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dirtydog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/13/2018 at 9:51am
If you get a chance read my post 69 390 using oil low vacuum it is a recent post you're talking about my saying problem I'm down to trying to find out if the intake pan is a gasket or do I need a second set of gaskets with the intake pan and where the best places to buy them. As far as my vacuum problem I'm thinking it's the cam plus the line running to the brakes vacuum canister was brittle where it was bolted to my intake I think I have everything solved now just trying to get parts to put back together
Back to Top
Blue68SST View Drop Down
AMC Apprentice
AMC Apprentice
Avatar

Joined: Nov/04/2014
Location: Mississauga, On
Status: Offline
Points: 123
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Blue68SST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/13/2018 at 11:51am
Thanks, I read it last night. I see you have found a baffle. I did as well. I will pull my manifold when it arrives and see if there is a valley pan gasket. I plan on putting it back together with a factory valley pan and the intake baffle. Hopefully that goes to fixing the oil consumption problem. I will post results.
Back to Top
Dirtydog View Drop Down
AMC Apprentice
AMC Apprentice


Joined: Nov/20/2017
Location: Harleysville PA
Status: Offline
Points: 67
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dirtydog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/13/2018 at 12:02pm
What I'm trying to figure out is the Valley Pan the pan and the gasket in one. Or do I need the separate gaskets and the Valley Pan I saw one post where they just put the Valley Pan in. I'll be interested in seeing how you make out.
Back to Top
Blue68SST View Drop Down
AMC Apprentice
AMC Apprentice
Avatar

Joined: Nov/04/2014
Location: Mississauga, On
Status: Offline
Points: 123
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Blue68SST Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/23/2018 at 4:50pm

I finally got a replacement baffle, and valley pan gasket, so I pulled the intake. There was a valley pan gasket, but no baffle on the intake. It seems from the old valley pan gasket that there was considerable vacuum leak on the front side. This is probably because the intake bolts were almost all BARELY FINGER TIGHT! I suppose I should have checked that earlier, but it was probably most of the reason for the oil consumption, and why #2 spark plug kept fouling.
Back to Top
PHAT69AMX View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Jul/07/2007
Location: West Virginia
Status: Offline
Points: 5926
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PHAT69AMX Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/23/2018 at 8:16pm
Just talking...
Sheet Metal PVC Baffle attached to Intake Bottom is a "must". (Factory was "Drive Rivets")
Sheet Metal AMC Valley Pan Gasket is a "must" ( may wanna kinda "pre-form pre-curl" it a little...)
That's it.  No "paper strip gaskets" are used.... except "special" situations guess should say...
Also suggest silicone beads (allowed to tack-up awhile first) across front and rear instead of the "rubber strips"...

While intake is off, measure the under-head length off all your Intake Manifold Mounting Bolts to make sure they are all equal.  Then screw all you Intake Manifold Mounting Bolts into all the tapped holes in the heads till they bottom out that they go into.  Then use some calipers or something and measure the distance from below the bolt head to the surface of the cylinder head.  Then measure the Intake Manifold Mounting Flange Thickness.  Subtract the thickness of any washers that will be used.  Long Story Short, imho... best to measure and CONFIRM there IS CLAMPING FORCE when the Intake Mounting Bolts are tightened down...  The tapped holes in the heads are blind tapped holes...

Also, as a side note, there is sometimes very little "room" for WASHERS on the Intake Mounting Flange.  There are 3 basic different "styles" of Flat Washers with different Outside Diameters for the ?3/8 iirc Mounting Bolts, Std or USS Wrought Flat washers are a "large" OD (Fender Washers, a 4th "style" are the largest OD), "SAE" Flat Washers are a smaller OD than USS Wrought for a given Bolt Size, and "AN" Flat Washers are the smallest OD for a given Bolt Size.   iirc I used some SAE and some AN washers last time (long ago) when I mounted a Torker Intake on my 343 AMC V8.  And I like the small head 12 point Intake mounting bolts (more wrench clearance).  No Silicone anywhere that fuel or fuel vapors contact... Old School GaskaCinch or Indian Head, etc... And of course, all clean surfaces...  Goal: Confirmed Bolt Clamping force, square flush washer "setting", good wrench clearance, a successful leak-free Intake Manifold Installation.  All right enough or too much already... better stop LOL


Edited by PHAT69AMX - Apr/23/2018 at 8:34pm
Back to Top
69 ambassador 390 View Drop Down
Supporter of TheAMCForum
Supporter of TheAMCForum
Avatar

Joined: Nov/22/2009
Location: Peoria, AZ
Status: Offline
Points: 3539
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 69 ambassador 390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/24/2018 at 12:26am
Originally posted by Blue68SST Blue68SST wrote:

Hi Ken.
Thanks for the reply.
There is obviously no way to tell what gasket was used unless I pull the intake, which may be worth doing.
The PVC valve is routed to the front base of the forward Carter carb. I will try to post a picture.
Yes we have met at both the Milton and Mississauga CC cruises. I have the gold AMX, used to have a blue 68 Javelin.


Yes you can tell. Just pull the PCV valve out and insert a long screw driver into the hole. If you hear a tin sheetmetal sound, you have the valley pan. If you hit cast iron, you don't.
Steve Brown

Algonac, Mi.

69 Ambassador sst 390

84 Grand Wagoneer

69 Cougar XR7

65 Fairlaine 500XL

79 F-350 Super Camper Special



Back to Top
69 ambassador 390 View Drop Down
Supporter of TheAMCForum
Supporter of TheAMCForum
Avatar

Joined: Nov/22/2009
Location: Peoria, AZ
Status: Offline
Points: 3539
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 69 ambassador 390 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/24/2018 at 12:43am
I see you pulled it. That gasket was leaking so good job. I install several of these a week. Here's some tips.

Use a large bead of Right Stuff instead of end seals.

Never, ever, ever, Use silicone RTV Around the intake ports, none are gas proof. Use Permatex #2 Or aviation form a gasket.

Right Stuff or RTV around the water ports. Do both sides of the gasket.

Seal all bolt hole beads in the gasket with AV Forma a gasket also to prevent oil weeps onto the intake surface, ugly.

A 3/8" tall bead of Right Stuff is good front and rear rail. Also a strip from the corner of the water jacket to the end rail.

Set the manifold on accurately, don't slide it to align it.

Put the bolts in just snug, not tight and walk away for twelve or so hours to let the sealers set up. After you let it sit for the day, tighten to specs. This allows the sealers to form a chemical bond and harden in place. When you tighten it the rest of the way it compresses the newly formed end seals and gives a strong mechanical bond also. You will have no leaks ever.

PCV must never be pulled from an intake runner. It must always be pulled from the common plenum area. If you pull PCV from a runner fitting, it will severely lean that cylinder and cause oil fouling also. The PCV flow must be shared with all cylinders. The carb fitting or base plate is the correct place to pull PCV. Port fittings are for dead head vacuum only like gauges or vacuum actuated vent/ ac ducting. Vacuum wipers are flow through systems and should be pulled from the carb also.


Steve Brown

Algonac, Mi.

69 Ambassador sst 390

84 Grand Wagoneer

69 Cougar XR7

65 Fairlaine 500XL

79 F-350 Super Camper Special



Back to Top
WesternRed View Drop Down
AMC Addicted
AMC Addicted
Avatar

Joined: Aug/03/2010
Location: Australia
Status: Offline
Points: 5808
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WesternRed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/24/2018 at 1:05am
Since you are that far into it, it's not a big deal to pull the valve covers and checkout the valve stem seals while you are at it. They are relatively easy to replace with the engine in the car if needs be. Also have a good look at the cam through the holes in the valley to check for any abnormal wear on the cam lobes.

Back to an earlier question, it's quite possible you have 1970 exhaust manifolds, which are logs but have dog leg exhaust ports, that's what a smart engine/car builder would do if wanting to maintain the stock look.
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  <1234>
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.03
Copyright ©2001-2019 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.250 seconds.
All content of this site Copyright © 2018 TheAMCForum unless otherwise noted, all rights reserved.
PROBLEMS LOGGING IN or REGISTERING:
If you have problems logging in or registering, then please contact a Moderator or