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67 Ambassador Convertible

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LakesideRamblin View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LakesideRamblin Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/26/2017 at 9:11am
Kudos. Great job and ingenuity. Love the car!
LakesideRamblin
69 Rambler 360
73 Javelin 360
"If you could kick the person in the pants responsible for most of your trouble, you wouldn't sit for a month." T. Roosevelt
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kcsamc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan/26/2017 at 9:58pm
That Bronze engine really looks pretty in that green engine bay!  Aren't you glad that you didn't have to paint it AMC blue!  Great looking detail on the engine!

Kevin Shope
1964 Classic 660
67 Rogue 290-4V 4spd Conv
A-Scheme SC/Rambler (69 SC JOURNEY)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amcron57 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Mar/27/2017 at 5:27pm
Great Job.. Thanks For Sharing!
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fhpdave View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fhpdave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/01/2017 at 10:06pm
Been busy with life and lots of little stuff on the car that by themselves are not a big deal, but when you put them all together real progress has been made. Since my last update I have cleaned/de-rusted and painted the driveshaft, installed new U-joints and installed it on the car. Got the radiator out of the attic that I had boiled out a year or two ago, and decided that I did not like the crummy paint job that the shop did. So I stripped all the paint off the tanks and mounting brackets, straightened the bent fins, and applied a nice couple of coats of black paint. Then I moved on to the fan shroud which was no fun to strip and sand the surface rust and prep it for paint. Lets just say that I am glad that the warehouse where I work is heated and that I have keys to it and can work on the weekends because that was one dusty messy job that would have had me kicked out of the house had I done it there. The end result is that it too is now painted a nice semi gloss black and matches the radiator just fine. Next was all the under hood A/C stuff. The car did not have A/C originally, but I have collected all the necessary components in add it on. I have elected to go with a Sanden compressor and modern cross flow condenser along with all new barrier hoses so that I can use R149 in the system. Flushed out the evaporator, installed a new expansion valve and now I have a system that should be good to go and hopefully not give me any troubles in the future. With that all done I made another trip into the attic (its getting kind of empty up there) and retrieved the  front bumper which I had re-chromed a while back, blasted and painted the brackets, and got it installed too. Also have all the under-hood plumbing completed - heater and radiator hoses, vacuum hoses, new steel line to the transmission modulator, and since they are not available, I had to fabricate new rubber lines to connect the transmission cooler lines to the radiator. I am now working on installing the dash and all the rest of the electric, but it is getting late so I will do another update with pictures in the next day or so.
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fhpdave View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fhpdave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/28/2017 at 4:15pm
Got a few minutes, so I thought that I would post a quick update. First are a few pictures of the under hood A/C stuff

This is  the new cross flow condenser that I have added some sheet metal and rubber extensions to seal off the areas on the bottom and sides as it is a little smaller than the stock unit. Since the inlet and outlet are on the same side, I had to use a 180 degree fitting so that the line that goes to the receiver/drier could exit on the drivers side of the car.


Here you can see the condenser mounted with all the new extensions in place, and the refrigerant line running up the drivers side of the radiator support.


Since there was not enough room to mount the receiver/drier inside the radiator/condenser area where it was before, I drilled a hole in the radiator support, added a grommet to protect the line, and mounted the dryer to the "engine room" side of the support. This allowed me to see the sight glass, and gives easy access to the hi/lo pressure switch if needed. All in all I am pleased with the result, and while not stock, is a clean installation.

Another thing that I have done, is sort out most all of the electrical "gremlins". One particularly vexing problem was the horn, or lack thereof.  Finally traced it down to the contact in the turn signal switch which I pulled loose from the steering column and disassembled the horn contact. Here is a picture of the part of the switch that needed some work

And here are the offending parts laying on the pages of my 1967 TSM, which is a true godsend if you are working on your car. The problem was 50 years of corrosion on the brass contact as well as the spring. Cleaned them both up, reassembled the switch and the horn is again in operational condition.

Also have spent countless hours putting the dash back together and am about 95 percent done. Gotta say I am loving the way it looks - especially at night with all the green lights glowing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote george w Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr/28/2017 at 7:46pm
Looking good Dave !
You'll want to flat black areas surrounding the rad and the condenser like the factory did before you put the grille in. You don't want the green areas showing through the grille. Don't forget to put "L" shaped, black plastic block off pieces at each end before you wrestle the grille back in.
A question on the dash lights. In the pic they look more green than blue-green. Is this just a color inaccuracy in the picture or did you remove the factory light filters and change out the lamps to green LED's ?
Long time AMC fan. Ambassador 343, AMX 390, Hornet 360, Spirit 304 and Javelin 390. All but javelin bought new.
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fhpdave View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fhpdave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/01/2017 at 1:08pm
The light filters in the gauge cluster were pretty much toast, so I used green LEDs there, in the radio, clock and heater controls. Also used them in the turn signal indicators and rear tail lights. Used regular bulbs for the shift indicator, ash tray light, and the cruise and A/C knob, so I still have some dimming function left. Also used regular bulbs for the warning lights as well as the hi-beam indicator.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fhpdave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/13/2017 at 1:59pm
Next up on the list was to paint and install the top mechanism. Painting was fairly easy, bolting stuff together, not too hard, getting everything to line up.......well that was another story. One that young children should never hear.

Top mechanisms and all the bows minus the rear one. Waiting on a delivery of additional tack strip.

After lots of trial and error - mostly error, I have things fitting about as well as can be expected with the so-so weatherstrip that is available for the big convertibles. Still I am grateful that something is available at all.

Was missing about half of the weatherstrip retainers which are a form of tee bolt with a sheet metal head, so I drilled and tapped some thick sheet metal, cut some all thread and welded them up. I forgot to take any more pictures of the process, but they all turned out looking like the one that is by the pencil in the picture.

While I was waiting for the tack strip to show up, I dug out the new grill and tun signal housings that I bought at the Nationals in Cleveland and got everything installed. Since this project is wayyyyy over my original budget, I have decided to tackle the top installation myself. Hopefully I will be posting some pictures of a successful install soon!
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george w View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote george w Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/13/2017 at 9:49pm
Dave,

I caution you that installing your own convertible top is probably not a good idea and a place to save a few bucks. Too many ways to screw it up. At this point a extra few hundred in added labor to have it done by a professional will be money very well spent. A properly installed top is a thing of beauty. A top just a wee bit off is never going to look right and at this point with the level of quality and care you've put into this project nothing less than a perfectly installed top will do.

As a side note, the original top material was a rather cheesy looking grained vinyl, not dissimilar from a cross between the interior seat vinyl and the Levant grain used on the vinyl tops. I have not seen this material in the aftermarket or reproduced. Your choice will likely be either pinpoint vinyl, sail cloth grain or Haartz canvas. I used pinpoint on my black convertible. It was OK as that was one of the more popular top materials of the period. Take a close look at the sailcloth. The graining may be a better appearance "fit" with your restoration. Some of the top materials are available in what's called "double texture". This material is a little thicker/heavier and lays a little better than the single texture.

The Haartz canvas is classy looking and is used on most of the higher end imported cars. It has a top quality look, but does not look stock. It also does not hold up well with repeated lowerings. It develops crease lines in the material which give it a worn look. Take a look around at some Audi or Porsche convertibles that are only a couple of years old. You'll see what I mean.

Kudo's to the job you're doing. It's first rate.

Long time AMC fan. Ambassador 343, AMX 390, Hornet 360, Spirit 304 and Javelin 390. All but javelin bought new.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hassyfoto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May/13/2017 at 10:15pm
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Murphy's Law:
Any given mechanical job you decide to solve alone will imminently require a third hand, at its most critical moment

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